Lemmythink
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The condenser set needs to match the lens, not the format.The only thing 'wrong' with simply using 4x5 condensor set to print anything including135 format negs is simply that some of the light is not concentrated within a smaller area, so it is not as bright as it could potentially be.
The condenser set needs to match the lens, not the format.
Not quite with you MattKing on the choce of condenser for most people? At the mo just trying to figure out what setup to buy that's good to go, without later finding out I need other parts that will break the bank/are few and far between. But interested to hear.
If your goal is to maximize the benefits of condenser illumination - maximum potential contrast and perceived "sharpness" than matching the condenser setup to the lens may provide a very slight benefit.
But if that is what motivates you, you have much more specialized needs than most who choose condenser illumination.
The shorter exposure times and relative ease of on-easel composing and focusing - particularly with colour negative film - are more practical benefits of having matched condensers.
The condensor illuminates the frame...the lens sees only the illuminated frame which is masked to the format, it does not see the condensor, it sees only the illuminated frame. The lens knows not if the condensor sends light to only cover the opening of the mask, or wastes it in an area much larger than the mask.
Please explain how the lens sees ANYTING on the other side of the illuminated frame of the film in the holder. The light striking the other side of the frame might be more collimated by a proper size condensor system vs. more multidirectionally striking the film surface with a diffusion source (or a condensor lens whose area of illumination is larger than the cutout.Not sure, but you might be mistaking the physics of a diffusion box and condenser system.
Condensers for a point light source are anti reflection coated !
Again, please correct me if I'm wrong in any of the above. I've only worked very, very briefly with a true point source and it was when I just started out with darkroom printing and barely had any clue of what I was doing. I'm also no expert in optics. I figure out light source geometry, diffusion and condenser setup on the basis of trial and error when re-working my LED exposure system.
I still have this hare-brained plan in the back of my mind to try a color quasi-point source on my Durst 138 and see to what extent that's usable. This thread makes want to give that a go, but it'll have to wait for some other projects to finish. Maybe, one day...
the only enlarger with a point source option was Durst...any other brand using a PH140 bulb or PH211 better fit your 'hybrid' description
When maximum focus, reproduction of detail and the shortest pos sible time of exposure are required, it is advisable to use the low voltage point-light source PULAM/PUTRA which is available as an accessory. This consists of a low voltage point-light lamp (12 V/100 W) with Edison socket which is connected to the mains supply via the PUTRA transformer. The L-shaped lamp holder should be replaced by the special PUPLA holder which offers better cen tring facilities for the lamp. Replace also (a) the standard deflecting mirror by the specially treated mirror LASPE P, and (b) the standard glasses in the negative carrier by the specially treated glasses GLAS T. The condenser combinations used in conjunction with opal lamps are not always suitable for point-light lamps. In these cases condensers LATICO 240 P and LATICO 110 will be needed for certain enlarging factors and focal lenghts. We supply, therefore, with the point-light kit a table of suitable condenser combinations. When centring the lamp take care to align the filament helix exactly in parallel with the deflecting mirror. When the enlarging factor has to be altered, move the point-light source forwards or backwards using handle (45) to ensure uniformity of Illumination. Use a large aperture when working with the point-light installation as otherwise Newton rings will be produced. It will be found that in spite of the large aperture, the definition so obtained will be better than that obtainable with a low aperture and an opal light. Furthermore, the time of exposure needed will be considerably shorter.
Hi,
I've been used to using colour head enlargers where 35mm to 5x4, you chose the appropriate size negative holder, loaded the film, and in to the enlarger it went. Looking to buy my own, it's a lot more complicated.
* For a "full set of condensers" would that be a set for each format 35, 645, 66, 67, 68, 69, 54? Or does one set have overlap, eg the 645 will also do 66. (Actually why is there different condensers? Is it just most efficient focus of light so 54 would be fine for 35mm just take a longer exposure?).
* For the Setoboxes I phoned the seller but he didn't know. What do they do, and likewise above, do you need one for each format or is there over lap? What would be the outcome of using a 69 Setobox for 35mm for instance? The enlarger also comes with 69 conderser. Does this mean to print 69 you need a 69 Setobox & a 69 condenser?
The different versions of diffuser light sources for different models of Durst enlargers follows the naming ***box naming convention, and different versions of condensor light sources for different models of Durst enlargers follows the naming ***con naming convention...you simply buy the model that fits the chosen Durst enlarger (in the case of Setobox, only for M700/M800 Color Enlargers; the Bimabox 6x6 or 6x9 was only for the Durst L900 enlarger) . The Setobox 6x6 covered only 6x6 negs, while the Setobox 6x9 covered up to 6x9 (including 6x6 and 6x7) Assuming you use the appropriate mask negative holder for that model of enlarger, it will enlarge just fine...and based upon the FL of lens (and negative mask size) and enlarger column height, you are limited to a magnification range that can be achieved on the baseboard. The decision to use a shorter FL lens and smaller format size mask is the individual's choice, the only impact is generally a larger format light source used on a smaller format size is simply less bright.
Yes it's a M700 I'm looking at. It's weirdly described as a Colour Head but I can't see any knobs to alter CYM. :confused again: I just thought I'd ask the major questions.
Are they (Setoboxes and Condensors) used together or seperately? I'm still not, sure for instance, if for 66 the Setobox is ideal for 66 by itself or I (ideally) need a Condensor lens for 66 to go with the Setobox? It's why I titles the thread 'basic' altho people are talking about quite detailed aspects.
I suggest that you read the owner manual for your chosen enlarger...you can readily find them on the web, so you do not need to have made the purchase yet!Sometimes condensor heads have a drawer built in for placement of acetate filters of various colors and strengths, for variable contrast or color printing, and they are called 'color heads' even though they do not offer dial-controlled dichroic filters built into the mixing box.
You choose to use -box OR to use -con head, you do not use both together at the same time.
Sometimes condensor heads have a drawer built in for placement of acetate filters of various colors and strengths, for variable contrast or color printing, and they are called 'color heads' even though they do not offer dial-controlled dichroic filters built into the mixing box.
You choose to use -box OR to use -con head, you do not use both together at the same time.
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