basic chemical shopping list for developing

[cordeliaflyte]

This is a super-easy question, but I'd love some opinions.

It's been a while since I've developed film at home. I've never done paper at home, but I have a bunch of paper negatives sitting in pinhole cameras I'd love to pop into trays and develop (and then scan, as I have no enlarger at home).

My question is: if I'm going to the photo store this evening, so that I can have instant gratification, and they have a reasonable, but not super-huge selection of Kodak + miscellaneous other chemistry, what's a good shopping list for me?

I want to develop various sorts of BW film (tri-x, efke 100, perhaps some ilford this and thats) and some paper (ilford rc). What's the minimum of stuff to pick up? Am I right in remembering you need different fixer for film and paper (because of the hardener) but the developer and stop and other stuff is all share-able? I've really only used D76 at home before... anything else that would be good to try for any reason?

I have tanks and timers and themometers and trays and a changing bag and stuff... just need to buy new chemistry.

Thanks for your advice. You can pretend you're going on a shopping spree vicariously through me.

Thanks!
annie
(aka cordelia)

 

[jovo]

I'd start with D76 since you've used it before and it pretty much is bulletproof stuff...eternal, and reliable. It's sold in foil packets now that mix up with hot water to make a liter. It's for film only though.

You'll need stop bath, and nearly any brand will do. The Kodak variety works well, is only really stinky in its undiluted form, and a small container will last a loooooong time as you only need 2 ounces per half gallon that will work for film or paper.

I'm a fan of Kodak rapid fixer, but there are lots of 'em to choose from, or buy some makins from Photographer's Formulary, and mix up your own.

If you're going to print, then Kodak Dektol, or Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer, or PQ Universal Developer will work equally well. Use the same fixer as for film but in a different dilution. My preference, however, is for Ilford fixer in 500 ml bottles.

Good luck, and have fun. None of this is very expensive; it's the paper that now sets you back a bit, but start with 8x10 RC or FB, and you'll have a more modest entree. There are zillions of variations on my answers here, so you should be utterly swimming in other alternatives in a little while. Close your eyes, scroll randomly, and poke your finger at someone's post and do that. You'll not be disappointed I'm sure.

 

[BradS]

At a minimum I would suggest:

Kodak...
D-76 film developer
Dektol print developer
Indicator stop bath
Fixer or rapid fixer (either will work fine for both film and RC paper).
Hypo Clearing Agent (for the film not for the paper).
PhotoFlo 200

This is actually more than the minimum required but, using all this stuff together as directed by Kodak, will enable you to produce the best possible results. That is, if used correctly, you will not be able to blame poor results on the chemistry.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

To answer your question, the developer is usually different for film and paper.

 

[Bob-D659]

Or, Ilford Ilfosol3 for film, MG paper developer, Rapid fixer. All are liquid concentrates. Dilute 5% vinegar 50/50 with water for a stop bath. Kodak or Ilford's version for Photoflo and a 1 gallon jug of distilled/deionized water for the final Photo-flo rinse for film.

 

[2F/2F]

Easy, cheap, and good would be liquid concentrates. A print developer such as Ilford Multigrade, and film developer such as HC-110 or Ilford HC. For a fixer, a liquid concentrate such as Ilford Rapid Fixer or Kodafix Solution. (I prefer Ilford because it is non hardening.) Fixers can be used for film or paper, but make sure you follow the dilution and capacity instructions for each use, as they are different. Kodak or Ilford stop bath is cheap as dirt and lasts forever. I like to use Hypo Clear. It is the only powdered chemical I use. Ilford has a version called Washaid, but I don't know if it is a powder or a liquid concentrate. I always just use Kodak Hypo Clear, as it is the only clearing agent my local store carries. Then, Photo-Flo or Ilfotol will help with spots...and you need graduates and storage containers.

So, my shopping list:

1. Ilford

Ilfotec HC
Multigrade Developer
Ilfostop
Rapid Fixer
Washaid (may be a powder, but I am not sure)
Ilfotol

2. Kodak

Dektol (powder)
HC-110
Indicator Stop Bath
Kodafix solution
Hypo Clearing Agent (powder)
Photo Flo

Then, as many bottles, graduates, trays, etc. as you need.

It will be more expensive than you think!

 

[nworth]

About 90 percent of the most common formulas can be made with: hydroquinone, metol, sodium sulfite (anhydrous), sodium carbonate (monohydrate), and potassium bromide. Add borax to the list to make D-76 (which I recommend). Add acetic acid and ammmonium thiosulfate (60 percent solution) for stop bath and fixer. You can do just about everything well with these. You also should get a really good scale.

If you don't care to mix your own, there are a lot of proprietary brews. For film developers, D-76, ID-11, Xtol, DD-X, and HC-110 are well known and widely available. They all do a good job with almost all films. For paper developers, Kodak and Ilford both make well respected products. Choose one to match the tone of the paper you use. Kodak and Ilford also make good fixers. I would recommend a rapid fixer. Good products in all categories are also available from a number of independent suppliers, such as Photographers' Formulary.