The difference between the two lies primarily in the red channel which makes me believe it's about the color temperature of your light source. My guess is that it is too cold and the camera (or your RAW converter) is compensating by adding more red to get a pleasing skin tone. I just googled "B10 Profoto" and it appears that the color temperature is adjustable. I would make it warmer. If you had a grey card it would make it easier to diagnose by sampling the white balance off it.
Christine, 6400k quite cold. Is it possible to set it to at least 5500K or even warmer? Just shoot a test sequence from 3000K to 6400K in 500K increments to see what happens.
Are you shooting RAW and converting to JPEG in a RAW converter, or your camera is set to JPEG and by "in camera" you mean in-camera conversion? Either way, I would recommend a warmer light source and you should see the change you're looking for.
If you're running auto white balance, don't. Actually set it to daylight or flash, or to a kelvin setting in the 5000-5500K range. It almost looks like you're running auto white balance and it's balancing the blue out to grey.
Depending on what power setting your B10 is set to, the strobe color temperature will vary quite a bit. At full power it will be 5500-5600K. As you dial the power down, the strobe electronics will cut the duration of time that it is powering the flash tube, which results in the light shifting to a bluer spectrum as the power is dialed down because most of the red spectrum a strobe emits is during the last part of a full power discharge. You also see this behavior with speed lights. The other behavior you'll see with larger power units and older technology units is the color temperature will get warmer as the power is dialed down. This is because as you dial the power down, the electronics lower the voltage that is pumped into the flash tube, which results in the light getting warmer. Very few strobes do the necessary voltage AND power duration changes (usually it's one or the other) needed to maintain a consistent color temperature over the full output power spectrum. The ones that do, very prominently advertise that they do because it's a big deal in strobe land to have the same color temperature over the full range of power that you can set the strobe to. Most strobes either get warmer as you dial down the power or get cooler as you dial down the power depending on if they change the voltage or change the amount of time powering the tube. Smaller power units like speed lights and the B10 usually get cooler, higher power units usually get warmer.
In terms of getting correct color balance, ideally, you'd want to shoot raw, and once you determine your power level for the strobe, use a whibal card (not a grey exposure card, an actual white balance card) and take a picture of it, then proceed to shoot the rest of your photos. Once you've pulled the raw files into your converter of choice, use the white balance picker to set the white balance of that first image, then duplicate the white balance settings to the rest of the images taken at that same power level.
Other than that, if you're shooting JPEG, set your camera white balance to either daylight or flash. It'll render a little blue, but your background should come out looking a lot more correct.
If you don't have a Whibal card, try using a Teflon tape. Recently I did a comparison and the Teflon tape came very close to my color corrected Whibal card - to my surprise.
:Niranjan.
How far is the subject from the background? Have you tried metering at the plane of the background and taking an exposure to see how it looks at full exposure?
Here's the side by side screen shot after only a single edit: changing the WB to "Flash" instead of the AWB used in camera with the RAW file.
Also, the B10 user manual says it is 6400 straight through at all powers in normal shooting mode (unless using freeze mode and are shortening the burst time, then it gets even cooler).
Another thing to watch out for is your modifiers. They can and do affect the color temperature of the light, sometimes in unpredictable ways, especially if you're using modifiers from different brands. If you're all Profoto for everything, that's less of an issue as my experience has been they do a pretty good job of keeping all that pretty consistent.
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