I have a Durst Printo, which holds 2.5 litres per bath, so I'm assuming your Thermaphot has a similar bath size.
In effect, you can use pretty much any of the popular B&W paper developers and get close to their suggested development times at various temperatures. I certainly had been doing that for around 10 years when I switched to my own from raw chemistry, E72 which is supposed to be a more environmentally friendly developer. The Printo machine can work at lower temperatures, but I always used temperatures around 31-32ºC at 45 seconds and always had excellent results. I've almost exclusively used Ilford RC papers with this method as well as Kentmere RC papers.
My E72 formula is easy to do, although I do acknowledge the issues you may have getting some ingredients in Iceland having visited the place for almost two months pre-covid.
E72 at 1:1 gives brilliant results with Ilford MGIV paper I haven't used the latest, but that will come shortly when my MGIV runs out.
1:1 gives high contrast, 1:2 or 1:3 for lower contrast.
I mix 1.25 litres of stock solution and mix it immediately with water for a high contrast 2.5 litre 1:1 working solution. Depending upon your subject matter and how much development is required, you should be good for 30 20cmx25cm (8x10") prints with around 40 prints possible before the edge of the developer goes off. This is using no replenishment.
750ml water around 50ºC
Phenidone 0.3g
Sodium Sulphite Anhydrous 45.0g
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C from a chemist) 19.0g
Sodium Carbonate Anhydrous 77.0g
Potassium Bromide 1.9g
water to 1 litre
Once I used 35ºC as I had used RA4 printing in the last use, no difference to speak of.
Using fresh developer if you are finding low contrast, or the blacks aren't really black, up the temperature; I'm fairly certain you'll then get nice black blacks. Temperature variance is the way you control development, as you cannot (easily) change speed.