Yes, you can reuse the fixer. The literature that comes with the chems will tell you capacities. Just keep track of how many rolls you use it for, and check it with your hypo check kit.
I use mixed fixer until it takes more than five minutes to clear a test piece of film: best way to test is to put a piece of unprocessed film into a jug and pour some of the fixer from your bottle to cover it well, to see how long it takes to clear. Anything longer than a few minutes and I dispose of correctly.
The fixer you mixed three days ago should be fine - do this quick check and you'll know if you need to mix a new batch, but I don't think you will have any problems.
I clip the leader from the film I am about to develope, so I have a specific time for fixing that film. Whatever time it takes for the film to clear, double that and you have the time for fixing.So any unprocessed film will do the job? you mean new film, or unprocessed film even exposed? So can i sacrifice one roll of film and i use it for checking my fixer? I will use this roll in parts so i can check the fixer every time, but i will tell you something, i always fix for maximum 5 minutes even if i use the fixer for first time, i know i can do that for about 2 minutes up to 5, but i just make myself in safe side and go for 5, so is this a problem is i keep using 5 minutes always as first time, and will i need longer than 5 minutes maybe if i reuse the fixer more than once?
Best result for push processing (e.g. shoot an iso 400 film on iso 1600 = push +2F) is to use a speed enhance developer like Diafine, Microphen, Acu-1/Acufine and go for a longer development. Data you can find on the manufacturer web sites or Digital Truth.
The problem is going to be the details in the shadows which are going to be lost and you still need a good dense negative (so not a thin negative). In fact what happens: Your density curve of the film is getting steep.
A good example of push processing is Tri-X (400) in Diafine E.I. 1250-1600 2x3 minutes. The speed boost is maximized with this Kodak film.
What can you expect: Detail lost in the shadows. Less nice grey tones and more grain. Some combinations are doing better then others.
Developer.
Fixer.
OK, tell me what you will do in my case/place then?
I just got a lens[65mm] for my new camera [Mamiya 7II], and i want to test the gear, so i chose Tri-X 400 to be the film of test, and it is night here, and i will shoot inside the house so the light is weak not strong enough, so i think with ISO 400 i will use either widest aperture or slower shutter speed, but i really don't want to use widest f or so slow shutter speed, so in this case the only way is to increase the iso, so what do you think? I can use the tripod for some shots, but i want to use handhold as well, and if i choose an iso then the whole film should be at same ISO, so will you just use tripod and go with slower speed or wider aperture or use higher iso and handhold[or tripod when necessary] with average normal speed or f stop?
i need the answer now because i am waiting to use the film now and don't want to keep it out of the fridge longer without shooting it.
Hey, I have a question, when i go develop my film, and the chemicals aren't in the proper temperature, how do I heat or cool them???
I used to use aquarium heaters to maintain a water bath. Trays sat in the bath.
This would work well for 20-25C maybe as high as 30C with some heaters, but likely isn't viable for 38-40C color development. Not to mention if an aquarium heater gets pulled out of the water while connected to power, it will quickly destroy itself, while sous vide devices have a safety to shut them off when the water level is too low for safe operation.
You have Tri-X film, rated on the box at ISO 400. You want to shoot it at ISO 1600. That's two stop increase.
You need to develop your film longer. If you are pushing two stops, then increase the development time approximately 2.25 times your normal time. If your normal develop time is 10 minutes, then develop 23 minutes. If your normal develop time is 5 minutes, then develop 11 minutes. These are estimates - not exact, but they should work.
The shots will be OK, but not good. You can tell if the lens is working. The negatives will have higher contrast than ordinary, but you can print them on grade 1 or grade 0. If you scan them you can adjust contrast in the software.
If you want to shoot 1600 often you must experiment to find good development times for your circumstance. If you want to test the lens just once this will give you a usable image to see.
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