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B&W and B&W IR films

BAK61

Member
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
30
Location
Westchester
Format
35mm
My questions are
a) what happens if I use an IR filter on regular B&W film? and
b) who processes BW/IR film ?
Lomography sells some, but I don't know if they process it. They should if they sell it right?

Thanks in advance.......BAK
 
Answers: 1) What would happen if you took a photograph with the lens cap on? 2) It is implied you develop the IR film yourself.
 
So the answer to the first question is, nothing. Fine. You could have just typed that.
The second implies nothing. By processing I mean developing the film and making prints or scans.
Thanks for the non answer.
 
As Tom1956 rather abruptly implied, a regular black and white film will have little or no exposure if you use most IR filters.

I say "most" because there are differences between IR films, and therefore differences between IR filters.

As for processing, the technique for most IR film is almost the same as for non-IR film. If you are unable to set yourself up to develop the film, I would suggest you contact a lab that offers specialty and pro services and ask them. I've seen recommendations for Praus Productions in the New York area: Dead Link Removed

It is relatively easy to develop film yourself.
 
It was not my intent to be cute or abrubt. Sorry. Sometimes a bit of humor does not translate in type. Sorry.
 
BAK61 said:
So the answer to the first question is, nothing. Fine. You could have just typed that.
The second implies nothing. By processing I mean developing the film and making prints or scans.
Thanks for the non answer.
Click to expand...

Forgive me but you seem to be overly touchy. Not the sort of attitude to encourage people to help you.
 
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No, I think my answer came off in an unintended manner. Maybe from his end, mine was the first answer to make a first impression of this site, and he was annoyed. Sometimes my jovial manner does not translate in type on a screen.
 
Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure about regular B/W, I tried to find the answers elsewhere to no avail.
As for the B/W/IR, I'm looking for developing and scanning. I don't do my own developing so I am at the mercy of others.
Didn't mean to sound thin skinned before but I really thought I was asking a simple question of people who have a lot more experience than I do. I'm just getting interested in the results of IR and don't want to have to send out a digital camera for retrofitting. If I can't work within the constructs of that particular medium I'm cool with it, but I wanted to give it a try.
No harm done.
Thanks again for the info.
 
but I really thought I was asking a simple question
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To quote the Bard, "Ay there's the rub." Nothing about IR photography is as simple as regular B&W. From film availability -- since Kodak ceased manufacture of their films I don't know if anyone manufactures a true IR film. This is the film that produced the dramatic white foliage. There are some films with extended IR sensitivity. But they are not the same. Kodak HIE went out to 900 nm. I would suggest reading a few articles on the net and researching film availability which will generate more specific questions for you to ask.

True IR film must be kept refrigerated before and after exposure. So you really need a readily available lab or you must process it yourself.
 
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Check Out Rollei IR film( Some People Says its not true IR film since I never used a True IR film By Kodak I'm not sure about that),http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/rollei_infrared.php...I just did a film test of this film 2 or 3 weeks ago.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/___nabia___/8762675704/
I'm not satisfied with the film grain so far, I will do a test again and play with developing time and maybe other developer this was done with D76 and 6 min dev time as recommended.I used Hoya R72 Filter.
 
Kodak HEI135-20 had great IR sensitivity, but TERRIBLE grain, and a very bad intra-base halation. I always wondered why they put it on that damn curly, undyed Estar-AH base. Totally ruined the good points of the stuff.
 
Be careful of the stuff being sold on lomography's website as IR film. The only currently manufactured IR films as Rollei IR 400 and Ilford SFX. You may be able to find some Efke or Kodak IR films at over the top prices on ebay. Lomography sell an Orwo TC27 film as Infrared. It is not! Do a quick Google search for discussion threads from several disappointed people.

Personally I like the Rollei film. It dries flatter than any film I've ever used and is very tolerant of exposure errors.
 

Mark I like the results you achieved with the IR film, there are real signs of infrared present in your results. I think that the IR would have even more impact if they were printed with a harder grade filter say No. 4 or 5. I'm not sure if you are are looking for more grain or trying to avoid it.
 
IR developement

I can develop the film for you and make prints from it. I cannot scan negs however. In my shots posted I have many IR shots if you want to look. If you wish to contact me PM or email me. lightwisps@yahoo.com Don
 
Simonh82 said:
Be careful of the stuff being sold on lomography's website as IR film.[...] Lomography sell an Orwo TC27 film as Infrared. It is not!
Click to expand...

A quick look at the spectral response shows that the curve nosedives at 700nm where as SFX200 starts to drop around 720nm (similar to the Rollei 400). On that basis alone, I wouldn't bother with TC27.
 

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You can't compare most spectral sensitivity charts as most of them do not indicate the amplitude, sometimes not even guarantee the equal energy output of their light source over the spectrum. Ilford charts are the worst.
 


I agree with you on the grain, I also shot the same film with the same filter and souped in Rodinal
 
Perhaps I am a little too anxious and too inexperienced for IR.
Thanks for all the advice, and the offer for developing, but I guess I'll stick with plain old B&W , and colour films.
Maybe after we move I'll have the opportunity to set up a dark room.
 
I recommend to start with the aerial films Agfa Avi Pan 80 and Aviphot Pan 200. The are selled as Rollei Retro 80s and Retro 200s. The are sensible to IR to to around 720 nm, so you have to use a 690nm or 720nm filter . They are not "true" IR films, but much easier to handle. The can stored normally (without colling) and are cheap. You get a fine IR effect form them if you shoot in the morning or the afternoon on a sunny day.
Both films tend to get contrasty which has to be managed by development. I have good experiences with Atomal 49, diluted 1+1.
 
Don't be put off IR photography but I wouldn't start it by buying from Lomography's store (unless you have piggy points you need to spend). Their film is generally over priced and I wouldn't trust that it had been fridge stored. This is important for IR films in particular.

If you are in the US places like Freestyle and B&H will sell cheaper film.

Developing your self is always a good idea. Look on ebay for second hand dark room equipment and basic chemicals are not expensive.
 
I wouldn't be too put off by IR film. To be honest with you it isn't really that different from regular black and white film. One small issue with IR films like Efke 820 film is it is prone to "light piping." Meaning if you take a 35mm roll out of the container even in subdued light it can fog a chunk of the roll because the light travels down the leader into the canister. So just load your camera in a changing bag. The medium format (120) version of the film doesn't have this issue because it doesn't have a leader.

I always keep my film in the freezer both before and after I shoot it. I have no idea if IR film requires that. It's standard practice for me and not an issue.

You can send your film to North Coast Photographic to be developed. As far as I know developing IR film is the same as developing regular film. In fact when I shoot Efke IR 820 I usually make the first exposure with no filter IR or otherwise. I rate the film as ISO 100. The reason I do this is if that frame is developed properly and there is anything screwing with the frames with the IR images I can eliminate processing as the culprit. If you aren't going to buy a truck load of old Kodak IR film or Efke IR film I would advise against developing yourself. The thing with developing yourself is you have to shoot and develop several rolls before you get your system fine tuned. I would not do this with film that has been discontinued. Why dial in a system for a film you will cease shooting in a couple of years. If you want to develop yourself I advise starting off with an emulsion that looks like it might be around for awhile.

Do not worry about what people are calling "true IR" films. All you need is a film that records a decent chunk of the IR spectrum. Anything over 700 nm is infrared. So look at the spectral response of a film and you will be able to tell whether it will record infrared and how much. That's all that matters.



Rollei Retro 80s is often used as a conventional high resolution high contrast film. But from the graph of its spectral sensitivity you can see it is sensitive to IR radiation well beyond 750 nm. People slap a 720 nm meter on their lenses and get pretty good Wood Effect images.
 
I've not tried the Rollei Retro 80S, but the Rollei IR400s is decent stuff. According to the datasheet, it's sensitivity drops to 0 at about 820nm.

This was shot on the IR400s, on an overcast day at ISO 12 with one of the cheap chinese 720nm filters.
 
I'm trying to avoid the distracting grain here.I don't do darkroom print yet...
 
lifthard1 said:
I agree with you on the grain, I also shot the same film with the same filter and souped in Rodinal
Click to expand...
i will try tmax or xtol to compare the grain.i want to do a big print (at least 15"x45" ,not darkroom print) thats why im trying to eliminate distracting grains..
 
Noble said:
The medium format (120) version of the film doesn't have this issue because it doesn't have a leader.
Click to expand...
Thats right, I just cover my camera with my focusing clothand dont have problem.
 
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