Attaching metering prism to Bronica ETRSI?

[Nick Zentena]

ARGH@#!!. Before I throw something at the wall is there a trick? Or is something wrong with this prism? I can attaching the waist level with my eyes closed. Or the non-metering prism. But this thing is pushing me to the edge.

 

[blaze-on]

Ok, Nick...mine's right here in front of me.
Seems to go on just like the WLF. Set it on the mounting platform at a bit of a tilted back angle to catch the back slider things (on bottom of prism) with the back inside lip of screen area. Tilt it forward (to flush) and slide forward.

 

[Nick Zentena]

I managed to get it fitted but it took more pushing then I think is normal. From looking at the camera body I think the right groove that the prism is supposed to slide into maybe smaller [bent?] then it should be. I don't know why the waist level fits so cleanly. Maybe it's a little thinner.

It's working now. OTOH I'm not going to take it off either.

Thanks

 

[dancqu]

It's working now. OTOH I'm not going to take it off either.

Not even for the Rotary? I've the WLF, AEIII prism, and
the Rotary. Bronica's Rotary is really splendid; very
noticeable distortion but very bright and very
sharp and I very satisfied. No more pain
in the neck.

I picked up the near new Rotary from eBay for around
$170 and switched to off camera metering. Dan

 

[Nick Zentena]

If I find a real cheap rotary I'll consider it but it'll go on the other body. Personally I like using the waist level but a metering prism comes in handy some times.

 

[dancqu]

Personally I like using the waist level ...

I like the waist level also but on the ETs it's only
practical for landscape mode. Of course a WLF can do
for all shooting with the always upright 6x6. Dan

 

[Nick Zentena]

Dan do you have the manual for the III prism? Or at least what does the switch underneath do? It's labeled 0,1,2 I think.

 

[dancqu]

Dan do you have the manual for the III prism?
Or at least what does the switch underneath do?
It's labeled 0,1,2 I think.

That's built in EI compensation; 0 is none, 1 is .3, and
2 is .6, or 1 or 2 1/3 stops. Use or not as you choose.

At 0 the ISO set is the EI used by the meter to arrive
at an exposure recommendation. At 1 or 2 that EI is
reduced by 1 or 2 1/3 stops.

I found my AEIII meter to give high readings even
after making a reduction from the ISO when setting
the film speed so I added .6 or 2/3 more
with that switch.

I'm quite sure that info is correct. I started using
the rotary a couple of years ago. I'm basically a WLF
type and that eye level was a pain in the neck,
literally. I encounter a lot of verticals when
working in the woods. Dan

 

[Nick Zentena]

So it's more of a permenant correction? Then use the other dial on prism to adjust for each shot? Sounds like I better take the time to see how it's reading. Thanks.

 

[dancqu]

[QUOTES=Nick Zentena]
"So it's more of a permenant correction?"

You could think of it that way. A 2/3 stop correction
may bring it more in line with your previous metering.

"Then use the other dial on prism to adjust for each shot?"

That would be the +/- 2 stops compensation; as needed.
In AE mode I usually used AE Lock.

"Sounds like I better take the time to see how
it's reading. Thanks."[/QUOTE]


That finder has exposure lock. Did you know that?
A manual is something to have. eBay's a place to look.
The ETRSi and what goes with it are some sophisticated
gear; many details and fine points. Dan

 

[Nick Zentena]

I've got the camera manual which covers the prism a little. But that switch on the bottom wasn't mentioned any place. The camera manual is still on the Tamron website. Kind of hidden but it's there.