Attach better lens with a leaf shutter on Sprocket Rocket ?

[darkosaric]

XPAN is too expensive, and cheap Sprocket Rocket - while fun to use, has a bad lens. Sprocket has image area 72x24mm, so best would be to dismount original lens, and put some medium format lens with a leaf shutter, for example lens from Agfa Isolette.
Somebody tried something like this, is it difficult?

Thanks,

 

[Dan Fromm]

Think, Darko, think!

The SR is a fixed focus camera with a 30 mm lens. The lens is on a fairly narrow tube. The camera's back comes off for loading film, so you could in principle set up a different lens to be in focus at some distance or other. You could even bodge a helical for another lens on the front of an SR and bodge it to focus the lens it is made for at infinity.

No cheap or easy. And short lenses in shutter that cover 76 mm are very expensive. I don't have an SR, so I can't be sure but I expect that a lens much longer than 30 mm will vignette on 72x24 unless you do major surgery on the front of the SR. You would be better off shooting a 6x7 camera and cropping to 68 x 24.

Or, if you don't want to pay the XPan price, get a humble Century Graphic (make sure to get one that still has a focusing panel) and a roll holder to fit. Depending on the roll holder you select, it will shoot 56 x (78 to 82) on 120 film. If you want to crop to 24 mm high, you can get between 78x24 to 82x24. Sorry, no sprocket holes. Lenses that will work on a Century Graphic include 35/4.5 Apo-Grandagon, 38/4.5 Biogon (won't cover nominal 6x9, just loses the corners of 82x24 [I have one, that's how I know]), 47 mm Super Angulon, ..., up to around 250 mm telephoto lenses. Who needs an XPan?

 

[Donald Qualls]

I might add that any roll film back that will work with 120 can be loaded with 35mm -- in the most DIY case, without any fancy 3D printed adapters, just stuff something in the supply chamber to keep the cassette centered and tape the film to the center of the takeup spool. You'll have to unload in the dark, and guesstimate how far to advance, but it works.

 

[Ariston]

I might add that any roll film back that will work with 120 can be loaded with 35mm -- in the most DIY case, without any fancy 3D printed adapters, just stuff something in the supply chamber to keep the cassette centered and tape the film to the center of the takeup spool. You'll have to unload in the dark, and guesstimate how far to advance, but it works.

I would like to mention that those adapters can be had for less than ten bucks, though. At least they could when I bought mine. I say they are worth it if you expect to shoot that way more than once.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I would like to mention that those adapters can be had for less than ten bucks, though. At least they could when I bought mine. I say they are worth it if you expect to shoot that way more than once.

Oh, no question, they're worth the price. My own preference is to get two of the ones for 35mm, and set up to take up into a (reloadable) cassette; that way if the camera back gets opened only the frame in the gate and part of the previous and following ones get fogged; all prior are safe inside the takeup and supply cassettes.

I've done this with my Wirgin Auta, with pretty decent results. And that's a pretty cheap folder.

Now, if you want a wider angle, another path is to do this with a roll film back for a medium format SLR like my RB67. I have a 50mm lens, haven't had a chance to try it on 35mm yet, but I will, soon.

 

[Ariston]

Oh, no question, they're worth the price. My own preference is to get two of the ones for 35mm, and set up to take up into a (reloadable) cassette; that way if the camera back gets opened only the frame in the gate and part of the previous and following ones get fogged; all prior are safe inside the takeup and supply cassettes.

I have two and need to try this. How many frames do you lose at the leader side? About three?

 

[Donald Qualls]

Yeah, three or four. I advance a full frame (5 half turns of the key) plus half a turn to take up the fogged leader. I then got six frames on a 20+ exposure bulk load in my Wirgin Auta. In my RB67, using a 220 film back, I get seven on a 24 exposure, but it takes more length for loading. You can tape a paper leader to the film if you want to get most of that back.

Each frame (in a 6x9) I reduce the advance by half a turn of the key to account for radius build-up of the film on the spool. In my RB67 220 back, I've "fixed" the frame counter drive roller so the narrow film can drive it, and just use the lever advance; I get the same spacing I would with any 6x7.

 

[darkosaric]

Thanks for reply guys. So - Isolette with an adapter will be.

 

[Donald Qualls]

For a 6x6, you'll be more like 3 to 4 half turns per frame rather than five. If you have a practice roll (35mm film still in the cassette that you have already exposed, or don't mind sacrificing) you can verify this by loading it, marking the frame start, and winding on with the camera back open to see how many turns are needed and how much that figure reduces as the film builds up.

Also, don't forget to apply a light tight cover over the red window, or at least tape the shutter in place if your Isolette has one.

 

[p81]

If you're looking for a Xpan alternate check out the Horizon S3 U500.

 

[cayenne]

You might look into the Presspan, where this guy takes a Nikon FE donor body, widens the gate and attaches a 3D printed housing you attach a mamiya 50mm press lens.

https://emulsive.org/reviews/camera...lad-xpan-alternative-introducing-the-presspan

I have one on the way.
Watch the YouTube video linked on that article.

Freeman’s site is:

http://trastic.com/?page_id=787#

there’s a bit of a wait list…

HTH,

cayenne

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

If someone is looking for a Presspan and doesn't want to get on the long waitlist, I may be selling mine soon. It's an all-black version. I'm probably keeping the Mamiya Press 50mm lens and viewfinder to use with my Goodman Zone camera.

Jeremy

 

[Rowreidr]

Yeah, three or four. I advance a full frame (5 half turns of the key) plus half a turn to take up the fogged leader. I then got six frames on a 20+ exposure bulk load in my Wirgin Auta. In my RB67, using a 220 film back, I get seven on a 24 exposure, but it takes more length for loading. You can tape a paper leader to the film if you want to get most of that back.

Each frame (in a 6x9) I reduce the advance by half a turn of the key to account for radius build-up of the film on the spool. In my RB67 220 back, I've "fixed" the frame counter drive roller so the narrow film can drive it, and just use the lever advance; I get the same spacing I would with any 6x7.

I do this as well, but add leaders and tails, i.e. https://imgur.com/gallery/i8llrzA

Takes some manipulation in a dark bag, easier with bulk loader, but even single rolled 135, I just unravel a 36 exp roll, cut in half, and able to get 2 rolls of 6 exposure sprockets from the 6 x 12. Lets me just change rolls in the field, as I also do short rolls of 120.