I would like to mention that those adapters can be had for less than ten bucks, though. At least they could when I bought mine. I say they are worth it if you expect to shoot that way more than once.I might add that any roll film back that will work with 120 can be loaded with 35mm -- in the most DIY case, without any fancy 3D printed adapters, just stuff something in the supply chamber to keep the cassette centered and tape the film to the center of the takeup spool. You'll have to unload in the dark, and guesstimate how far to advance, but it works.
I would like to mention that those adapters can be had for less than ten bucks, though. At least they could when I bought mine. I say they are worth it if you expect to shoot that way more than once.
Oh, no question, they're worth the price. My own preference is to get two of the ones for 35mm, and set up to take up into a (reloadable) cassette; that way if the camera back gets opened only the frame in the gate and part of the previous and following ones get fogged; all prior are safe inside the takeup and supply cassettes.
Yeah, three or four. I advance a full frame (5 half turns of the key) plus half a turn to take up the fogged leader. I then got six frames on a 20+ exposure bulk load in my Wirgin Auta. In my RB67, using a 220 film back, I get seven on a 24 exposure, but it takes more length for loading. You can tape a paper leader to the film if you want to get most of that back.
Each frame (in a 6x9) I reduce the advance by half a turn of the key to account for radius build-up of the film on the spool. In my RB67 220 back, I've "fixed" the frame counter drive roller so the narrow film can drive it, and just use the lever advance; I get the same spacing I would with any 6x7.
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