redvis said:. . . does anyone know of a b&w film (too bad Tech Pan is gone) that is both high resolution and has adequate sensitivity at 656.3 nanometers, the hydrogen-alpha wavelength for the sun's chromosphere ?
redvis said:In fact, there is a specialized astrophotography camera that is 4x5 and sells new for only about $165. I've been considering it.
Cameran
Donald Qualls said:They include a leaf shutter, also, which will introduce far less vibration than the mirror and shutter of an SLR.
Three excellent books and related web sites:Carol said:Hello Cameron
I'd be very interested in the film+astro sites if you could post a link. I've been interested on astrophotography for some time, but am only just starting to get some gear together to try it for myself. I'm a member of an astro forum down here, but most of the members are using ccd cameras and I'd kind of like to try film.
Boy I can't wait to follow all the links posted above. Thanks so much.
Sparky said:Thanks for the info -
I'd have to absorb some of this though - I think we might be talking about different things. I was looking at the possibility of using an autoguider with my setup - but I still DO have more to learn.
I thought I'd show you this link... this guy is doing almost exactly what I'd like to do/capture and with identical equipment. Actually a LOT of nebulae are clearly visible with even wider lenses in these shots - but perhaps it's a magic camera (!)
Dead Link Removed
The 100mm planar is considered one of the most distortion-free lenses ever designed and built. That's the reason I bought the thing. Even stars at the far edge of frame are rendered as spherical (almost) pinpoints...! I'm very interested in trying to get near-perfect alignment and tracking on these. But we'll see.
The links you included - It was quite difficult to determine what the resolution of the shots actually WAS... since I couldn't seem to coax the original from the thumbnails on the pages... anyway - will check it out and check back in with you when I've done a bit of absorbing...! Thanks much for that.
redvis said:Hi Sparky,
If you use an autoguider with your setup you'll need a guidescope for the autoguider. Some autoguiders come with a small guidescope (The SBIG STV with eFinder for example) but their guidescopes are too small to mount a camera on. You'd need a guidescope for the autoguider and then you'd mount your camera piggyback.
redvis said:That's a great link, turns out I had it bookmarked already. I looked through a lot of the shots and the photography always had a guidescope (the Meade LX200). They are great wide-field shots, but given the focal length of his lenses there isn't a lot of detail in the nebulae. It's all a matter of preference, of course. I typically shoot at about 425mm with my Borg 77ED which gives me a semi-widefield. I'm with you - I like widefield but there is definitely something to be said for closeups!
redvis said:I'm not sure about the resolution of Pete's images but Chris scans his 35mm E200 slides in at about 2400 or 2700 dpi if I am not mistaken. I believe that the shot I linked to was not altered in any way other than setting the blackpoint with the scanner software.
redvis said:I have no experience with lenses other than some old Pentax and Vivitar and newer Nikon lenses so I had no idea how a Hasselblad lens would work. You can always stop down 1 or 2 stops from wide open to remove any distortions from lenses. That's what I have to do with my Pentax lenses when I do widefield, but if you're lens is distortion free then you my friend are very lucky!
redvis said:I am really looking forward to seeing some of your astrophotos! Let me know if you have any questions and check out the books Astrophotography for the Amateur and Widefield Astrophotography. They can be had used for a good price and are books I am constantly referring to!
Looking forward to seeing your results!
Cameran
Sparky said:Donald - I'd imagine the influence from any shutter would die out within the first second or two of the exposure. Anyway - I'm not sure it's such a problem with the 20 minute plus exposures necessary for most astro work...
Donald Qualls said:I wish that were true, Sparky.
My Spotmatic will make my Meade (admittedly an undersize scope and mount for a 40 year old SLR) bounce around for most of a minute. And if there are bright stars in field, they'll record at the end points of a vibration and it'll look like you have a whole field full of binaries (sometimes called "nose binaries" from when you bump the scope with your nose while guiding).
The classic method of dealing with camera-induced vibration is to cover the tube opening with a black hat, open the shutter, let the vibrations damp, then take away the hat, returning it before touching anything at closing time. Making sure, of course, not to touch the scope tube with the hat at the beginning of the exposure...
Sparky said:That makes complete sense to me, Donald. I suppose I was living in a different world though - and functioning under the assumption we were talking about wide-field photography with just a camera sitting directly on a heavy mount. Apologies for my self-absorption.
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