Asked before but got nowhere: Spotmatic battery cover

[David Lyga]

There is something within the gremlins of photography that seals, as strong as with epoxy, that tiny battery cover in a Spotmatic which has a tiny corroded battery within its chamber. I have tried everything: boiling that bottom cover, using oil, placing a nickel into a pair of pliers and using all my strength (I am NOT weak) to attempt to turn that damn cover. Lighter fluid and other solvents do nothing: that cover is as sealed as if it has now become an integral component of the metal cover, itself. No I do not want someone to offer me one that he/she owns. I have a collection of Spotmatics and I am sick and tired of not being able to remove these covers. Other cameras provide far less irritation.

The only alternative I can conjure would be, somehow, to remove that battery chamber from the other side (facing the interior of the body), and let that cover stay put. Then I could devise my own battery chamber and, using a tiny spring. make the proper electrical contact. Changing the battery would then involve removing those four bottom cover screws to get inside, but, so what? The problem would be solved. - David Lyga

 

[Johnkpap]

Have you tried soaking in vinegar ?

Johnkpap

 

[David Lyga]

Yes, to no avail.

 

[Helios 1984]

Kroil or Liquid Wrench?

 

[David Lyga]

Well, now we are getting to the esoteric. Do these actually have the capacity to go down into those sealed threads. I'll bet not, but won't definitively knock you, Helios. Worthy of pondering.

But wouldn't you have thought that boiling would have opened up something? - David Lyga.

 

[jon.oman]

Well, now we are getting to the esoteric. Do these actually have the capacity to go down into those sealed threads. I'll bet not, but won't definitively knock you, Helios. Worthy of pondering.

But wouldn't you have thought that boiling would have opened up something? - David Lyga.

Liquid Wrench is made to soak into sealed threads.....

 

[AgX]

Instead of vinger I advice the less diluted form: 25% acetic acid, dripped into the thread.

If this does not help, I would use brute force; drilling two holes and using a spanner wrench.

Last resort: milling-out the cap.

 

[juan]

PB Blaster from the auto parts store.

 

[David Lyga]

Now this is really getting interesting. AgX's offer of 25%? Why not the glacial, itself!!! I never thought of doing that!. Yes, drilling two holes might offer to work, but that becomes one of my last resorts, as I like the look of a clean cover. But milling out the reverse side might work because it would keep the front nice and pretty. Thanks all, maybe others have something to say. - David Lyga

 

[Sirius Glass]

Now this is really getting interesting. AgX's offer of 25%? Why not the glacial, itself!!! I never thought of doing that!. Yes, drilling two holes might offer to work, but that becomes one of my last resorts, as I like the look of a clean cover. But milling out the reverse side might work because it would keep the front nice and pretty. Thanks all, maybe others have something to say. - David Lyga

Acids need to be at least somewhat diluted in water to ionize so that it can work. Consider using WD-40.

 

[AgX]

I always clean messed up battery compartments innards with 25% acetic acid. Works fine, but many times it finishes off corroded copper ...

 

[David Lyga]

Acids need to be at least somewhat diluted in water to ionize so that it can work. Consider using WD-40.

How long should the WD-40 remain on the metal?

 

[BrianShaw]

How long should the WD-40 remain on the metal?

Bad answer but an honest one... until it works, or you determine that it won’t work.

Kroil might not be in your quiver right now but getting some might be your best bet.

 

[BrianShaw]

But you started me thinking... most of us have our favorites based on some crisis another. Here’s an interesting study that includes both economic and performance analysis. I might change my mind on my favorite based on it.

 

[AgX]

Well, I posted on the assumption of a leaking cell.

But I admit I experienced at least one mint screw cap (Canon Pellix) that was nevertheless twisting rough.

 

[Helios 1984]

Well, now we are getting to the esoteric. Do these actually have the capacity to go down into those sealed threads. I'll bet not, but won't definitively knock you, Helios. Worthy of pondering.

But wouldn't you have thought that boiling would have opened up something? - David Lyga.

Last time I used the aforementioned penetrant oil, it was to free the seized dial of a Gillette Toggle. Let the part soak in the juice and give gentle wiggles. Repeat.

PS: Don’t do it in the house, that stuff smells like kerosene.

 

[BrianShaw]

Last time I used the aforementioned penetrant oil, it was to free the seized dial of a Gillette Toggle. Let the part soak in the juice and give gentle wiggles. Repeat.

PS: Don’t do it in the house, that stuff smells like kerosene.

Not to usurp David’s thread... but isn’t the Toggle nice?

 

[BradS]

I’ve had several successes by removing the bottom and soaking the whole thing in ordinary white vinegar. I usually warm it a little at first and let it sit at least a day sometimes several days.

I’ve failed once by applying too much torque to the stuck cap...in that case the whole battery chamber broke loose from the bottom plate.

 

[John Koehrer]

baking soda will clean corrosion from battery contacts, compartments. Whether it's able to seep into the threads?

 

[jtk]

How about locally heating it with a small soldering iron ?

 

[mgb74]

I use PB Blaster all the time on cars. But Kroil is a penetrant on steroids.

 

[bdial]

For penetrant, I like acetone and automatic transmission fluid, which is probably discussed the video. But heat may be a good idea here too.
However, with enough corrosion from a leaking battery, the two may well have become one for all practical purposes, especially if you're dealing with two different metals.

 

[runswithsizzers]

One problem with WD-40 and Liquid Wrench type products is that they tend to evaporate before the part has soaked long enough to work. Devise some way to keep the part soaking overnight. I have never heard of Kroil before today, but I am now pretty excited about getting some.

Also, the penetrating solvents do their job much better if you can physically break the solid bond between the two parts. Shock and or vibration might help if you can apply it to the battery cover without destroying the camera. Multiple light taps with a hammer and a brass punch might help the oil to penetrate.

If you have a replacement available, as a last resort, I would try drilling a small hole near the edge of the battery cover and put the corner of a chisel in hole and see if it can be tapped out with a hammer.

Once the cover has been removed, there are several anti-seize products that can be applied to the threads to prevent future problems.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Several of the products mentioned may have specific chemical activity on rust (iron oxide) - which may or may not also be effective on corroded brass, chrome, or aluminum.

It's been a long time since I owned a Spotmatic - can't remember if the battery cover is plated brass or steel or ? If it's non-ferrous, the electrical contact type cleaners might work better than the rust busters ??

 

[Helios 1984]

Not to usurp David’s thread... but isn’t the Toggle nice?

A thing of beauty and smooth shaver.