- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
- Messages
- 26
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- 35mm
Yeah I clicked on it for a couple seconds, but I've popped the top on so many cameras, I can't count. I just don't think that's where your problem is. I think you have a continuity situation somewhere more related to the bottom end of the camera. I suppose a piece of trash can be blocking your meter movement, but I'd satisfy myself on any continuity or intermittent possibilities first. I've only ever seen one galvanometer gone bad, on a Mamiya, I believe.
I've covered that in this thread. My suspicions are in order of the posts. In the end, you may dead-end with a bad circuit board, bad capacitor, or bad galvanometer. These are less-likely scenarios. Right now, I'd pop out the circuit board and clean the contacts first. It pulls out from the connector on one end, after removing a hold-down screw or 2. All assuming on my part the configuration is somewhat like the ES. I've never had a II apart. Probably similar.
Yeah, I know about choosing the simpler of 2 theories. So I chose it. The bottom end of the camera is easier for a novice to open up than the top end. Further, he's already stated the needle budged once. I think ot's a continuity problem, due to corrosion, probably. Or an oxidized contact. And for a novice to go prodding the needle is begging for fouling it up permanently.
Have you found yet if the camera seems to operate the shutter with responsiveness to light?
Have you found yet if the camera seems to operate the shutter with responsiveness to light?
Have you found yet if the camera seems to operate the shutter with responsiveness to light?
With the shutter speed set to Automatic (Red triangle --- Automatic)... Then the shutter should be automatic - with a shutter velocity appropriate for the light. So when the light is dim, a slow shutter that sounds like "tic........kah" and when the light is bright it will be fast "taduk". If it's always fast ("taduk") every time no matter the light... then you might have a circuit problem.
But if the sound of the shutter agrees with the amount of light - in Automatic - then you have a camera that is almost perfectly functioning except for the needle.
Then you can decide how important the movement of the needle is (and if it needs to go to a repairman). But the needle is only to show you shutter speed in the viewfinder. It does not have to move, in order for the camera to work. I understand if you want it working, but you should know that it doesn't have to move - for you to be able to use the camera to take good pictures.
With the shutter speed set to Automatic (Red triangle --- Automatic)... Then the shutter should be automatic - with a shutter velocity appropriate for the light. So when the light is dim, a slow shutter that sounds like "tic........kah" and when the light is bright it will be fast "taduk". If it's always fast ("taduk") every time no matter the light... then you might have a circuit problem.
But if the sound of the shutter agrees with the amount of light - in Automatic - then you have a camera that is almost perfectly functioning except for the needle..
Lost in translation
sorry mate
You need to get an instruction booklet for the camera.
Thanks for the explanation i
Yes With Low light wen is press the shutter bottom sounds like "tic........kah" slow, to enter more light, and With High light the sound is like more "taduk" fast opening a closing all in automatic, with the two triangles - - aiming itch other.
Its not a priority the needle to move if i use the the cam in automatic mode. But Its a peace of old art and a old present im trying to put the machine working in totally full. Recently I open the lens who comes with the machine 1 Takumar SMC 50mm 1.4 and 2 MACRO takumar 50mm F4 and remove all fungus problems , to use in my dslr without fear to expand to my new digital.
I can take good pictures with ESII i just trying to resolve the stuck needle, all rest Is working perfectly i Think.
With the shutter speed set to Automatic (Red triangle --- Automatic)... Then the shutter should be automatic - with a shutter velocity appropriate for the light. So when the light is dim, a slow shutter that sounds like "tic........kah" and when the light is bright it will be fast "taduk". If it's always fast ("taduk") every time no matter the light... then you might have a circuit problem.
But if the sound of the shutter agrees with the amount of light - in Automatic - then you have a camera that is almost perfectly functioning except for the needle.
Then you can decide how important the movement of the needle is (and if it needs to go to a repairman). But the needle is only to show you shutter speed in the viewfinder. It does not have to move, in order for the camera to work. I understand if you want it working, but you should know that it doesn't have to move - for you to be able to use the camera to take good pictures.
I meant that in the friendliest of terms. I suppose I was saying it with a bit of jovial humor, such as this link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2f-MZ2HRHQ
back to this post.
I just have buy a news LR44 batteries and I try to see if in automatic the shutter speeds slows or speeds up according the light, and I concludes the speed is always the same.
Hi NirvanNa,
Yes, buy new batteries and see if in automatic the shutter speeds slow or speed up according to the light. That tells you the camera is working.
If the speed is always the same, that tells you there is something wrong.
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