ASA (ISO) 0 film...

Vaughn

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I've been using a LF camera for 25+ years. On the rare occasion I have used an ASA 0 film. Exposed a couple of 8x10 sheets of it yesterday in an old barn. My Pentax spot meter read from 4 to 14 inside and 17 in the sky visible thru the boards. Put the 210mm lens at f45 and gave it 3 extra stops (8 times the recommended shutter speed -- total time 2 minutes) to compensate for rep. failure.

Now I have to figure out how to bend the ASA 0 film (also known as darkslides) to fit in the Jobo drum -- or should I just tray develop them?

Fortunately I also exposed some Ilford FP4 -- developed those last night and they look fine.

AA said he didn't like sharp prints of fuzzy concepts, I wonder what he would say of that ASA 0 film of mine --- sharp mental images on them from a fuzzy brain....

Vaughn
 

Michel Hardy-Vallée

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But is it art? That is the real question!

PS: Search for Darkness Photography in the APUG threads for some mind-bending thinking....
 

galyons

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Let's really stir the pot and start "discussing' wheher you should development them in Rollo, Pyrocat....

Forgetting to pull or pulling the darkslide too early are major joys of LF photography! Been there, done that, and probably will again.

Cheers,
Geary
 
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Vaughn

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I made an hour moon-lit exposure once, then spent about 10 minutes hunting around in the dark for the darkslide -- finally found it in the film holder.

Yesterday would not have been so bad if I hadn't done it twice within 10 minutes of each other! Glad I work solo!

vaughn
 

MattKing

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After years of using SLRs and TLRs I recently re-discovered something similar about rangefinders - if you forget to take the lens cap off of your lens (in this case a Koni-Omega, but it may apply to others too) you get very disappointing negatives.

Matt
 

eddym

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MattKing said:
After years of using SLRs and TLRs I recently re-discovered something similar about rangefinders - if you forget to take the lens cap off of your lens (in this case a Koni-Omega, but it may apply to others too) you get very disappointing negatives.
Click to expand...
I was told that the SLR was invented to solve the problem of underexposed negatives due to lens caps.
 

Roger Hicks

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Dear Vaughn,

Possibly the answer is ISO infinity film. Certainly FP4 wasn't fast enough when I exposed it behind the darkslide in a Fotoman 810PS (I developed it only yesterday...)

Cheers,

R.
 
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Vaughn

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Roger Hicks said:
Dear Vaughn,

Possibly the answer is ISO infinity film. Certainly FP4 wasn't fast enough when I exposed it behind the darkslide in a Fotoman 810PS (I developed it only yesterday...)

Cheers,

R.
Click to expand...

No, I think you just have to develop the sheet the day before you expose it...taking advantage of the pre-latent image.

Vaughn
 

raucousimages

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And I thought my ISO 0.75 graphic art film was slow. How long do you need to fix a darkslide until it clears?
 
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Vaughn

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raucousimages said:
And I thought my ISO 0.75 graphic art film was slow. How long do you need to fix a darkslide until it clears?
Click to expand...

It is still in the fix -- I'll let you know.

Vaughn
 

naturephoto1

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Hi Matt,

Even Alfred Eisenstadt forgot to remove his lens cap on his M series Leica on more than one occassion. To say the least he wasn't a happy camper.

Rich
 

bwakel

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M6 Problems

Yes, I had a 'major problem' with my Leica M6 out in the wilderness the other day. Some great light broke through the wet and windy day as I was walking on the Lake District fells. I grabbed my M6 and metered on the now brightly lit grass in the mid-distance. Disaster, the meter was obviously broken as it suggested that the exposure was longer than a second! I turned the exposure dial to Bulb to switch it off then back again but it still wouldn't co-operate. Distraught at missing some fabulous light and shadows on the high peaks I took the M6 from my eye to return it to the camera bag and noticed that the lens cap was still on.

At least I didn't expose any film, I suppose.

Barry
 

CraigK

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I did manage to get a decent looking print from just such a film. Here is a scan of it:



















I'm sure it does not show as well on screen as it does in person....you know jpeg artifacts and all.
 

Roger Hicks

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Vaughn said:
No, I think you just have to develop the sheet the day before you expose it...taking advantage of the pre-latent image.

Vaughn
Click to expand...

Dear Vaughn,

This is one of the great charms of APUG: endless technical knowledge on the most arcane subjects.

Looking forward to seeing you last year.

Cheers,

R.
 

pgomena

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The time-and-effort-saving solution to this problem is to find a good, used Spiratone Latent Image Viewer. Examine those negs before they even hit the developer.

Peter Gomena
 
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Vaughn

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avandesande said:
I just found out my 'new' used RB back does automatic preflashing. Boy am I lucky!
Click to expand...

Must be very handy with that harsh New Mexican light! Back in 1981, I hitched-hiked 3 months thru New Zealand with a 4x5 that had a back that did the same. The camera was made in India -- they must harsh light there, too, but I found it was not a needed feature for the softer light of New Zealand.

Vaughn
 

jimgalli

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That's exactly why I use 15 year old film. Something will be on it.....even if I forget to pull the darkslide.
 
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