Your color-temperature meter won't give an accurate reading on a discontinuous light source like a fluorescent tube, especially one that is optimized for blue and green wavelengths only. Color temperature in K is predicated on a black-body spectrum that (usually) contains all wavelengths, just in different proportions. The missing red in the Aristo tube will skew the results to a higher K number.
I would take a look at the light source through a #58 green filter and a #47 blue filter and see what it looked like. These are the color-separation filters for in-camera separation for making color prints from B&W negatives and are rather sharp-cut.
The luminance visible through the #58 filter would be the green component and the low-contrast light for VC paper. Compare this visually and with a light meter to the light transmitted by the #47 filter. All you really need is enough green light to expose through the #00 filter. Even if the blue and green components are not equal, as long as you have enough green to do the job, you'll be able to get a full range of contrasts from VC paper. The only thing is that the increments between filters will not be equally-spaced if the two color components are not balanced. That just means longer exposure times for low-contrast settings and the use of filters closer to the low-contrast extreme if the green component is significantly less than the blue. E.g., to get "normal" contrast, you may have to use a #1.5 or #1 filter instead of #2. If you have a color head, just dial in what you need.
If the light from the cold-light head appears cyan (blue-green) and not just blue, I would wager that it would work just fine with VC papers.
Best,
Doremus