Arista Ultra

akfotog · Feb 20, 2014

Has anyone used Arista.Edu Ultra 100, 200, or 400 films in 4x5 or 8x10? If so, what was your experience with them. Understand they are made for students/teachers, but I've seen digital prints, done by Robert Frase, from the 8x10 negatives that look pretty awesome. Thanks.

jspillane · Feb 20, 2014

These films are rebranded Foma products. General consensus seems to be that 400 is not so good (I have heard it described as looking similar to Foma 100 pushed to 400- some people think they are identical emulsions). I like 100 & 200 in 4x5 and 35mm, but I have had mixed results in 120 (maybe not the films fault). True speed is lower than what is listed, and they are very poor candidates for long exposure due to awful reciprocity.

I use 100 and 200 in Rodinal 1:50, rated at ISO 50 and ISO 125. I might prefer 200 slightly, but both are very nice traditional films. The emulsion is softer than most and can scratch (my problem with 120), so be gentle with it. Very beautiful tonality, sensitive to over and underdevelopment though (you can't abuse this stuff like Tri-X or HP5+).

fretlessdavis · Feb 20, 2014

The emulsion is thin and pretty fragile. They are widely known as Fomapan. I actually *really* like the 100 speed in 135 and 120, just don't squeegee with those!

I found out how easy it was to scratch them in 4x5... Now I'm just sticking HP5 until I get mu process dialed better.

akfotog · Feb 20, 2014

OK, I think I'll try a box of 4x5 first. Trying to find a decent "practice" film for my newly acquired 8x10 that won't break the bank. Most of my exposures will be under 10 seconds, but if the film's reciprocity is really that bad, I go with the 200 instead of 100 speed. Also, looking at the data sheet, the development times are kind of sporatic for some developers (I primarily use D76), guess a good starting point will be right in the middle. Thanks for the input, will post a few soon.

fretlessdavis · Feb 20, 2014

D76 1:3 for the recommended 17 minutes is not long enough. D76 1:3 for 21 minutes is pretty dead on, and gives very nice contrast and tonality. At least that's what I've found. It is also one of the few films where it's hard to get box speed in standard development. I shoot my rolls at 80.

Reciprocity on it is terrible... Haven't been able to get any decent longer exposures out of it. Either underexposed, bad highlights, or both.

jspillane · Feb 20, 2014

akfotog said:
Most of my exposures will be under 10 seconds, but if the film's reciprocity is really that bad, I go with the 200 instead of 100 speed.

Just so you know, 200 is supposed to have even worse reciprocity failure than 100. Also, you need to start adjusting for anything over a second or so. To get a good 10 second exposure, I think you are going to be going around a minute (seriously). I haven't tested this and just avoid using it for anything over a second.

If you are going to be doing lots of long exposures, tmax 100 or (even better) acros are the way to go. Both are brutally priced in 8x10, though.

EDIT: here's a chart someone did for Foma 100
http://consumptive.org/technical/Fomapan_100_Schwarzchild_Effect.pdf
reciprocity info for 100/200/400: http://www.f295.org/main/showthread.php?10884-Fomapan-200-Creative-reciprocity-table

Fixcinater · Feb 20, 2014

I've shot some in 4x5, rated it at 50 and developed at times recommended for 100 since I tend to like the look of a little flatter negative than most.

It may be a bit more fragile than other films, but I use it interchangeably with Delta 100 (aside from the aesthetic) and don't really notice any issues through my process.

gone · Feb 20, 2014

I've used the 100 speed version in 35mm form. It's OK, nothing I am going to buy again. It is cheap though. You had better shoot it at 50 or you'll get a lot of contrast, which I got on my first roll. Actually, I may prefer the high contrast at 100. If I need a 100 speed film, which is almost never, I just shoot Tri-X at that. Seriously, it's pretty good! Tonality is a little compressed but it has some great blacks.

Rick A · Feb 20, 2014

I use edu ultra and Fomapan 100, same thing. Since the emulsion is a bit fragile, I develope them in either PMK pyro or Pyrocat-HD. If you don't have a hardening developer I think it best to use some sort of hardener either wit stop or fixer. Just be extra careful loading sheet film as it is easy to leave fingrprints or other artifacts on it. I absolutly love the look these films have, very classic.

smithdoor · Feb 20, 2014

Yes I just try for first time the one from Czech Republic ASA 100 4x5 25 box
Work great I have not try it on any real photo just testing
I wish I got the 50 sheet box now

Dave

Roger Cole · Feb 20, 2014

jspillane said:
These films are rebranded Foma products. General consensus seems to be that 400 is not so good (I have heard it described as looking similar to Foma 100 pushed to 400- some people think they are identical emulsions). I like 100 & 200 in 4x5 and 35mm, but I have had mixed results in 120 (maybe not the films fault). True speed is lower than what is listed, and they are very poor candidates for long exposure due to awful reciprocity.

I use 100 and 200 in Rodinal 1:50, rated at ISO 50 and ISO 125. I might prefer 200 slightly, but both are very nice traditional films. The emulsion is softer than most and can scratch (my problem with 120), so be gentle with it. Very beautiful tonality, sensitive to over and underdevelopment though (you can't abuse this stuff like Tri-X or HP5+).

I've shot a fair amount of the 400 in both 120 and 4x5. It's nothing like a 100 film pushed and I've never heard that before. It is more like a 200 film but that's not unusual either. I shoot it at 200, reduce recommended development by about 15% and the negatives look fine. Grainier than big name films, but if that's ok with you the film is ok. The emulsion is soft as people said. Be careful with it and it's not a problem.

Maris · Feb 20, 2014

I've used several hundred sheets of Arista EDU Ultra film 100, 200, and 400 in the 4"x5" and 8"x10" formats. In every case I rate the films at half their nominal speeds and I do tray development in a slosher or one sheet at a time. Replenished Xtol is my developer of choice and development time is 11 minutes 15 seconds for all films at 20 Celcius. All the films are unremarkable, predictable, high quality, panchromatic, and feature conventional silver halide technology. Arista EDU Ultra 400 seems grainier than other 400 speed films but for large format work at the moderate enlargements I do the grain is irrelevant.

Since Arista EDU Ultra 200 is supposed to have the worst reciprocity characteristics of any film I did actual tests to see how bad things really are. Here are my results for a consistent negative density at extended times:
Measure 1 second on the meter...give 1.5 seconds
Measure 2 ... give 4
Measure 3 ... give 7
Measure 4 ... give 12
Measure 6 ... give 18
Measure 8 ... give 28
Measure 10 ... give 40
Measure 14 ... give 48

In practice I deal with dark scenes by reading subject luminances consistent with Zone VII or VIII and apply reciprocity corrections to keep these Zones pegged where they should be. Shadows will of course experience stronger reciprocity failure and become featureless black. But this is how dark scenes should look so I don't worry about letting the shadows go.

smithdoor · Feb 20, 2014

Here is chart from Kodak TRI X 400/320
It looks close to Kodak data (see pdf file below)

In general
FOMAPAN 400 Action is a panchromatically sensitized, black-and-white negative
film designed for taking photographs under unfavourable light conditions or using
short exposure times. The film meets high requirements for low granularity, good
resolving power and good contour sharpness. FOMAPAN 400 Action has a nominal
speed rating of ISO 400/27o, but due to its wide exposure latitude the film gives
good results even when overexposed by 1 EV (exposure value) (as ISO 200/24 o)
or underexposed by 2 EV (as ISO 1600/33o) without any change in processing, i.e.
without lengthening the development time or increasing the temperature of the
developer used.
To make prints or enlargements, Fomabrom- and Fomaspeed-type enlarging
papers are recommended; however, all sorts of black-and-white enlargement
papers can be used.
Speed
ISO 400/27o, 27 o ČSN
Schwarzschild effect
Exposure (seconds) ----------1/1000–1/2 __1__ 10 _100
Lengthening of exposure ------1x ---------1.5x -6x- -8x
Correction of aperture number _0 _________-1__ -2.5 -3

Dave

Maris said:
I've used several hundred sheets of Arista EDU Ultra film 100, 200, and 400 in the 4"x5" and 8"x10" formats. In every case I rate the films at half their nominal speeds and I do tray development in a slosher or one sheet at a time. Replenished Xtol is my developer of choice and development time is 11 minutes 15 seconds for all films at 20 Celcius. All the films are unremarkable, predictable, high quality, panchromatic, and feature conventional silver halide technology. Arista EDU Ultra 400 seems grainier than other 400 speed films but for large format work at the moderate enlargements I do the grain is irrelevant.

Since Arista EDU Ultra 200 is supposed to have the worst reciprocity characteristics of any film I did actual tests to see how bad things really are. Here are my results for a consistent negative density at extended times:
Measure 1 second on the meter...give 1.5 seconds
Measure 2 ... give 4
Measure 3 ... give 7
Measure 4 ... give 12
Measure 6 ... give 18
Measure 8 ... give 28
Measure 10 ... give 40
Measure 14 ... give 48

In practice I deal with dark scenes by reading subject luminances consistent with Zone VII or VIII and apply reciprocity corrections to keep these Zones pegged where they should be. Shadows will of course experience stronger reciprocity failure and become featureless black. But this is how dark scenes should look so I don't worry about letting the shadows go.

akfotog · Feb 20, 2014

That is true, I use Acros and TMax 400 in 4x5 now and love them both. Thanks for the chart, going to be a lot of trial and error.

jspillane said:
Just so you know, 200 is supposed to have even worse reciprocity failure than 100. Also, you need to start adjusting for anything over a second or so. To get a good 10 second exposure, I think you are going to be going around a minute (seriously). I haven't tested this and just avoid using it for anything over a second.

If you are going to be doing lots of long exposures, tmax 100 or (even better) acros are the way to go. Both are brutally priced in 8x10, though.

EDIT: here's a chart someone did for Foma 100
http://consumptive.org/technical/Fomapan_100_Schwarzchild_Effect.pdf
reciprocity info for 100/200/400: http://www.f295.org/main/showthread.php?10884-Fomapan-200-Creative-reciprocity-table

akfotog · Feb 20, 2014

Great info everyone, just ordered a box of 100 in 4x5 to test, can't wait. Thanks again.

Roger Cole · Feb 20, 2014

I didn't know Acros was even made in 8x10.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

akfotog · Feb 20, 2014

Don't know Roger, I've used it in 120 and 4x5. Have found some internet articles indicating that ii was at some point and time though. Can't confirm.

karl · Feb 20, 2014

Yes, you can get Fuji Acros in 8x10. It's just over $9 a sheet.

But on topic, I shot 8 more sheets 8x10 Arista Ultra Edu 100 today. It does really need to be rated at 50. It's a nice film.

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 20, 2014

I've shot Arista Ultra.EDU (rebranded Foma) in 100 and 400 in sheets, and 200 in rolls.

My favorite is the 400, but it is a bit of work to get it to work. As far as I know they stopped making the 400 in sheets, so that's not even a concern. The 200 has a longer scale than the 100, better separation in the highlights. I can't get more than 125 out of it no matter what developer I use.
The 100 is tricky as heck, because it suffers slightly from poor antihalation, but it also blocks up in the highlights extremely fast, so compensating development is recommended. Just reduce agitation a bit, and off you go.

When you get it right with these films they will serve you very well. To me they were always a pain in the butt to use because of how soft the emulsion is, so I'm sticking to HP5+ for sheet film for now, and I like it better.

Good luck!

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 20, 2014

Roger Cole said:
I've shot a fair amount of the 400 in both 120 and 4x5. It's nothing like a 100 film pushed and I've never heard that before. It is more like a 200 film but that's not unusual either. I shoot it at 200, reduce recommended development by about 15% and the negatives look fine. Grainier than big name films, but if that's ok with you the film is ok. The emulsion is soft as people said. Be careful with it and it's not a problem.

Yeah, the 400 looking like pushed 100 is a bunch of hogwash. It isn't a true 400 speed emulsion, I just can't get more than 200-250 out of it no matter what. But it is a beautiful film nonetheless. Much less crazy in the highlights than the 100, doesn't block up as easily and offers just beautiful grain.

Light Guru · Feb 20, 2014

I've had good results with 4x5 Arista EDU 100 in fact the new box I ordered just arrived today.

I use the a Reciprocity Timer app on my iPhone to calculate the full exposure and I treat the film as if it was ISO 50.

It's fief finitely easy to scratch while processing, so I try and just process one sheet at a time using tray processing. I have been using stock D76 but I'm going to try Arista Premium liquid developer.

akfotog · Feb 20, 2014

Thomas Bertilsson said:
I've shot Arista Ultra.EDU (rebranded Foma) in 100 and 400 in sheets, and 200 in rolls.

My favorite is the 400, but it is a bit of work to get it to work. As far as I know they stopped making the 400 in sheets, so that's not even a concern. The 200 has a longer scale than the 100, better separation in the highlights. I can't get more than 125 out of it no matter what developer I use.
The 100 is tricky as heck, because it suffers slightly from poor antihalation, but it also blocks up in the highlights extremely fast, so compensating development is recommended. Just reduce agitation a bit, and off you go.

When you get it right with these films they will serve you very well. To me they were always a pain in the butt to use because of how soft the emulsion is, so I'm sticking to HP5+ for sheet film for now, and I like it better.

Good luck!

Great news for you Thomas, Freestyle Photo offers Arista Ultra.EDU in 4x5 and 8x10 films. Here's their link: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/1-Film?attr[]=1-57

Dennis S · Feb 21, 2014

Some great points on use and handling. Its going to be in my first order of 4x5 film.

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 21, 2014

akfotog said:
Great news for you Thomas, Freestyle Photo offers Arista Ultra.EDU in 4x5 and 8x10 films. Here's their link: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/1-Film?attr[]=1-57

Thanks! I'm sticking to HP5+ though. It is far more consistent, of higher quality, and it's worth the extra cost, in my opinion.

akfotog · Feb 21, 2014

Thomas Bertilsson said:
Thanks! I'm sticking to HP5+ though. It is far more consistent, of higher quality, and it's worth the extra cost, in my opinion.

Agreed, will be getting an 8x10 next week and just looking for a cheap out for practice really, before taking the big plunge.

Arista Ultra

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