Arista RA-4 kit; got two blix B's. Can someone tell me which is actually B?

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

I'm shooting a note off to Freestyle but in the meantime I'm wondering if I could get someone who's had these kits to help.

I opened up my RA-4 kit and the blix chems, though obviously part A and part B are both labeled part B.

If you've used these kits or know for a fact, then can you tell me which is actually the B?

Berri · Mar 8, 2017

the brown stuff is usually first

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

Berri said:
the brown stuff is usually first

Thanks.
Since they are used in the same ratios I wasn't stopped, but I did want to know. I also notified Freestyle of the mistake.

Berri · Mar 8, 2017

rpavich said:
Thanks.

you're welcome, good job!

David Lyga · Mar 8, 2017

The fixer is clear.

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

David Lyga said:
The fixer is clear.

OH...so these are just separate bleach and fixer? I can actually use them separately if I wanted to?

David Lyga · Mar 8, 2017

I think that that is more than possible. In fact, I fix FIRST and even sometimes forgo the bleach. That way, the exposed silver becomes part of the image (along with the dyes) and brings about a slightly contrastier image. - David Lyga

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

David Lyga said:
I think that that is more than possible. In fact, I fix FIRST and even sometimes forgo the bleach. That way, the exposed silver becomes part of the image (along with the dyes) and brings about a slightly contrastier image. - David Lyga

interesting!

David Lyga · Mar 8, 2017

One thing that you have to remember and I learned this the hard way in the seventies: if you deviate from the omnipotent color god, your world will not blow up. Try giving MORE development to negatives that are taken under diffused conditions (shade, for example). You just might find a color panoply that is more than exquisite in hue. - David Lyga

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

David Lyga said:
One thing that you have to remember and I learned this the hard way in the seventies: if you deviate from the omnipotent color god, your world will not blow up. Try giving MORE development to negatives that are taken under diffused conditions (shade, for example). You just might find a color panoply that is more than exquisite in hue. - David Lyga

Oh thanks. I'll try that. I have a lot to learn.

David Lyga · Mar 8, 2017

The only reason that you have a lot to learn is because of the fear of disobeying the 'religion'. "Nuff said: I have been around the block a few times. - David Lyga

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

David Lyga said:
The only reason that you have a lot to learn is because of the fear of disobeying the 'religion'. "Nuff said: I have been around the block a few times. - David Lyga

RPC · Mar 8, 2017

A caveat, rpavich: if someone suggests an alternative way to do something, make sure you know how to do it the proper way first, then compare it with the alternative way so you can judge for yourself whether it is acceptable to you, especially in the color world. Test and compare!

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

RPC said:
A caveat, rpavich: if someone suggests an alternative way to do something, make sure you know how to do it the proper way first, then compare it with the alternative way so you can judge for yourself whether it is acceptable to you, especially in the color world. Test and compare!

Got it.

Rudeofus · Mar 8, 2017

rpavich said:
OH...so these are just separate bleach and fixer? I can actually use them separately if I wanted to?

No, you can not use them separately, because a bleach consists of oxidizer and counter anion for Silver. In a BLIX, the fixer part plays the role of the counter anion.

rpavich · Mar 8, 2017

Rudeofus said:
No, you can not use them separately, because a bleach consists of oxidizer and counter anion for Silver. In a BLIX, the fixer part plays the role of the counter anion.

Ahhh, thanks for straightening that out!

Rudeofus · Mar 8, 2017

To make my statement more precise: there is a way of(there was a url link here which no longer exists), but it requires additional chemicals. There is no reason to do this, though, even PhotoEngineer stated clearly on many occasions that RA-4 process works well with BLIX.

What David Lyga suggested was bleach bypass processing, which not only increases contrast, but also reduces color saturation. While this look may be preferable in some situations, it is not the generally recommended way of processing RA-4 type media.

To answer the original question rpavich asked: Freestyle conveniently provides MSDS for most photochemistry related products they carry, and the MSDS for this Arista kit makes it obvious which BLIX part is which:

BLIX PART A lists Ammonium Thiosulfate and Sodium Metabisulfite
BLIX PART B lists Acetic Acid and Ferric Ammonium EDTA

Since Ammonium Ferric EDTA has a very distinct color (deep red), it is therefore clear that Arista's BLIX PART A is the bottle with the light yellow liquid, whereas Arista's BLIX PART B is the bottle with the deep red liquid.

rpavich · Mar 9, 2017

Thanks everyone, this was quite informative and Freestyle got back to me also and confirmed what Rudeofus said above, that the B is the darker liquid.

If my paper comes today as it should, I'm going to try and do a test print...very excited.

Berri · Mar 9, 2017

sorry to mislead you, part 1 in tetenal kit is deep red.

rpavich · Mar 9, 2017

Berri said:
sorry to mislead you, part 1 in tetenal kit is deep red.

No biggie...it got sorted out.

Arista RA-4 kit; got two blix B's. Can someone tell me which is actually B?

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