arista paper developer

Hi there

Just a quick question that neither google nor "search forums" retrieved the answer to, so:

How is does Arista Liquid Paper Developer stack up to more mainstream developers like dektol or polymax? All of my experience printing has been with powder form dektol. Stuff is getting a little expensive though, which is my I am wondering if the Arista stuff is worthwhile or just a waste of paper. Thanks!

I cannot attest to any comparison. That being said, it is all I have used thus far. It seems to treat Oreintal Seagull Rc VC II very well. If you are considering primarily from a financial standpoint then I would definitely recommend it as a good option.

All you've used, really? That's good to hear. Do you feel it can keep up with your LF stuff as far as detail/tone?

Might have to just give the local shop a call tomorrow. Bromophen is now looking really nice, too. Totally different developer it seems like but still nice.

All I have been able to do LF printing is a few contacts of my negs. There's no room in my home for the Beseler and I don't have anywhere yet in which to use it. The lion's share of my printing has been with my 135 and MF negs on the old Fujimoto.

I have been using the Legacy Pro Eco Pro developer, with I think excellent results. I have used many developers over the years.

The normal mix is 1+9. I decided to try this as a replenishing developer. When I am done with a printing session, I return the working strength developer to the storage bottle. I then top off the bottle to replace what has evaporated or been absorbed during printing, at 1+5. This was not in the instructions, but I just decided to give it a try.

I have been working one quart this way for almost four months, so the economy has been very good. A couple of times I have used a coffee filter to keep the developer clean.

great idea ^. I think I will give that a shot with this stuff too.

I am a fan of making your own developers. You can start with known formulas and adjust to your own standards. If certain tones aren't up to standard, you can fix them by adding or subtracting a little from the original formula. I am a fan of Ansel's Ansco 130 variation for graded paper contrast control, but I also have very good results in shadow detail when using Edward Westons Amidol formula. I compared Westons to the Sprint developer once (EW mixed 1+3 I believe and Sprint mixed 1 + 9 as normal) and found the sprint is VERY harsh, giving way too high contrast and killing low values that Westons provided generously. The test was on Oriental Seagull Grade 2 11x14. Formulas can be gotten on Digital Truth or sometimes on Forumlary's website itself.