Arista Ortho 3.0 for Alternative Processes Dupe negs

[Kino]

Wanting to enlarge 35mm, 120 and 4x5 B&W negatives for larger Cyanotypes for now; maybe other processes in the future. I have a box of Arista Ortho 3.0 in 8x10 size to start with; again, maybe larger if this works out. Going to go the traditional projection enlarged interpositive to contact printed dupe negative route with just the Arista (or Fuji HR-U?)

Was referencing the 1st Edition of "The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes" by Christopher James and the LC-1/LC-2 formulas, but noticed there were two additional editions printed in 2008 (2nd) and 2015 (3rd).

Thought there might be updated information on these formulas, so I started searching and found a reference by user @Vaughn that listed a different LC-1 formula that was not 2 part:

1st Edition, 2002, pages 46 & 47.

Stock A
750ml distilled water at 125F
3.0g Metol
60g Sodium sulfite
3.0g Hydroquinone
Distilled cold water to make 1 Liter

Stock B
10g Sodium bisulfite
Distilled cold water to make 1 Liter

Various recommended dilution combinations for taming contrast, avoiding mottle and such.

The version @Vaughn cited:

2nd Edition, 2008, page 100.

Single solution
750ml distilled water at 125F
4 g Metol
80 g Sodium sulfite
4 g Hydroquinone
20 g Sodium bisulfite
add distilled cold water to make 1 liter stock solution

For use, dilute 1:5 to 1:10...5 to 10 minutes at 75F

Now there is the 3rd edition, (of which I don't have a copy at the present time) but the online index to the book shows reference to LC-1 and LC-2 as well, but I am wondering if it has been updated/changed as well.

Can anyone confirm if there have been any changes?

Anyone compared the original to the 2nd version cited? The 2nd version sound more convenient, but is probably less flexible.

Shut up and just test it? (yeah, I thought so...)

Thanks for any opinions.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I just use a particular dilution of HC-110 for contone Arista Ortho Litho applications.

 

[gealto2]

Wanting to enlarge 35mm, 120 and 4x5 B&W negatives for larger Cyanotypes for now; maybe other processes in the future. I have a box of Arista Ortho 3.0 in 8x10 size to start with; again, maybe larger if this works out. Going to go the traditional projection enlarged interpositive to contact printed dupe negative route with just the Arista (or Fuji HR-U?)

For what your doing it will be difficult using the ortho litho alone due to its high contrast. The regular cyanotypes, you need a density range of around 1.0-1.3 which is likely slightly lower contrast the the camera negatives you have. My personal method is to make optical 1:1 copy interpositives on the same film I use in the camera. This required a really good macro lens and a mirror lock up on the camera. Such an interpositive will give an extremely low contrast and density range. This can be low enough that an enlargement to internegative on the ortho litho will work well using slightly diluted camera film developer, or even diluted print developer.

An alternate that would likely work would be to make an enlarged interpositive on the ortho litho film using diluted camera film developer, then contact print this on hru xray film. which is much lower contrast than ortho litho. You can also use diluted film or paper developer for that. The xray film is very sensitive to light, so you will need to figure a way make a short exposure. Also difficult to process due to very soft gelatin on both sides. You need a smooth bottom try for that, or you could use an 11 x14 size freezer ziplock bag for the processing. Easiest to leave the film in the same bag for all the processing steps including washing.

 

[Cor]

I had good results by making bigger negatives on ARISTA Ortho from 6*6 film by reversal processing. Takes work to fine tune and is somewhat laborious, but it is a one step process.
See: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/NbyR/nbyr.html

Good luck,

Cor

 

[gealto2]

I had good results by making bigger negatives on ARISTA Ortho from 6*6 film by reversal processing. Takes work to fine tune and is somewhat laborious, but it is a one step process.

I spent almost a year recently trying to make that work. Seems simple, but very complex in the details. In the end, the enlarged negatives will have lower contrast in the shadows and higher in the highllights, which does not work well for siderotypes, but maybe not too bad for carbon printing. Siderotypes work best with enlarged negatives that have higher contrast in the shadows and lower in the highlights, like developer compensation gives with a shouldering effect. This is not as good as a correction curve applied in making a "digital negative" but much better than nothing in my opinion.

See: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/NbyR/nbyr.html

Good luck,

Cor