Arista EDU Ultra 100 with Pyro HD?

Anyone tried Arista EDU Ultra 100 with Pyro HD in their Jobo?

If so, your thoughts and comments?

I am thinking about trying it in 8x10 for some contact prints. I've tried it a few years ago in smaller formats and found that I needed to rate it at half the stated speed and handle it pretty carefully. If the 8x10 100 turns out to be ISO 50, that is an advantage for me since I want a slower film that I can use my old brass lenses with that have no shutters. And the cost savings is good too if the results are acceptable.

Thanks

I used to all the rime, but sold the Jobo when I down sized. I still use PMK Pyro and Pcat-HD with all my Fomapan, Arista, and Efke films. You can rate at box speed, but it is better at half speed. At box speed you need to give more development time. Also, Pcat negs look thin(to me) but print beautifully. I rate Arista 100 at iso 50 for 4x5 and pull my developing time by 20% with PMK, full time for Pcat.--YMMV, do the testing for your own preferences.

analog65 said:

Anyone tried Arista EDU Ultra 100 with Pyro HD in their Jobo?

If so, your thoughts and comments?

I am thinking about trying it in 8x10 for some contact prints. I've tried it a few years ago in smaller formats and found that I needed to rate it at half the stated speed and handle it pretty carefully. If the 8x10 100 turns out to be ISO 50, that is an advantage for me since I want a slower film that I can use my old brass lenses with that have no shutters. And the cost savings is good too if the results are acceptable.

Thanks

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The Foma films are a bit different from anything else out there.

The main thing to look out for is highlights blocking up. Pyrocat-HD is excellent in this regard, because it is really good at preserving printable density in the highlights. But the film's basic character is that if you develop the film too long, you end up with completely bullet proof highlights. Some people like this, others don't. If you watch it and don't over-develop, you end up with beautiful tonality across the board.

The other thing to watch out for is that the films are not usually true to their ISO speed. I develop in Harvey's Panthermic 777 developer, and I have to give TWO stops more exposure to get adequate shadow detail. However, and this is a big deal, if you are using old brass lenses, which are a fair bit lower in contrast due to flair, you will not necessarily suffer a speed loss. With Pyrocat-HD and properly executed film developing I'm pretty sure you could get a full EI 100 out of it using older lenses. With more modern lenses you have to watch out more, since they offer more contrast and 'better' flair handling due to their coated glass. That means better definition, but also deeper shadows and you have to expose your film heavier to compensate.

Experiment, and work out the kinks. As always, you can get an idea from others. But you will not know the full extent of anything until you try to see for yourself. Both these developers are wonderful with Foma films, by the way.

IMO, pyro cat HD is really smooth, also it has a staining character which is good for alt process, but if silver gelatin is it, it works. half speed is correct with foma. your time may vary due to your "handling". I feel, that is "feeeeeel" that foma is best with a staining dev. I have had excellent results with this "dynamic duo"

I like Foma with Pyro PMK

gzinsel said:

IMO, pyro cat HD is really smooth, also it has a staining character which is good for alt process, but if silver gelatin is it, it works. half speed is correct with foma. your time may vary due to your "handling". I feel, that is "feeeeeel" that foma is best with a staining dev. I have had excellent results with this "dynamic duo"

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I'm not sure how different Pyro PMK vs Pyro Cat HD, but Foma with Pyro PMK has an old school look to me. I buy the film as Arista EDU.

I'd start testing with the film shot at half speed (ASA 50). But I'd far rather have the control of tray dev than a revved up Jobo drum. Foma
films tend to develop fast.

Thanks everyone. The 8x10 Arista EDU (Fomapan) 100 is on its way. My plan is to start with EI 50 and develop at the slowest speed in my Jobo CPE-2 in the 8x10 expert drum for 10 min with Pyro HD at 1:1:100. I will make adjustments once I get some feedback from my initial starting place. I use old uncoated and brass glass, so this should be a lot of fun. Once I get some prints made, I will follow back up with my thoughts and experiences in case someone else in the future is looking for this info.

Thanks!

With pyro PMK, you develop higher than 68 degrees F and it requires more agitation then conventional developer. You also have to put the film in an alkaline solution. The old developer will work.

Mainecoonmaniac said:

With pyro PMK, you develop higher than 68 degrees F and it requires more agitation then conventional developer. You also have to put the film in an alkaline solution. The old developer will work.

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Naw--not true. I develop at 68f and even Gordon Hutchings(the inventor) decided that re-immersing in spent developer after fixing wasn't necessary, as it only built up overall stain. My agitation does not differ with it, I do the same no matter if D-76, PMK, Pcat-HD, or Rodinal(or any other), I always get excellent results. I learned early on that consistency of procedure(once established) makes for better negatives. The only variable in my process is time depending on film and developer.