Arista.EDU 400 & HC110?

Rick A

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Have you looked in the MDC on Digitaltruth? If you dont find it for Arista EDU, look under Fomapan 400, they are the one and the same. I have seen it listed under both names.
 

Thomas Bertilsson

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Dilution H is twice as dilute as Dilution B. Develop for twice as long. (This is not universally applicable to developers, but in this case it works out that way).

- Thomas

stradibarrius said:
does anyone have developing times for Arista.EDU 400 & hc100 1:50? 1:63 (H)??
I found the time for dil "B" (1:31)
Click to expand...
 

jmcd

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For Foma 400 (Arist Edu. Ultra) I get an ei of 240, and develop in dil. E (1:47) for 7-1/2 minutes.
 
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jmcd

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FWIW, Xtol 1:1 is an excellent developer with this film—nice tones and the grain will be much smaller than with HC-110 (though the tones are very good with HC-110.) Speed is still 250, and I develop for 13 minutes.
 

jmcd

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This is Foma 400 in Xtol 1:1, with a very contrasty lens.
 

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jmcd

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Same with the mellower Summitar.
 

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Thomas Bertilsson

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Xtol is good with any film... I use it replenished. But the question was on HC-110. Take advantage of the beautiful grain of the Foma 400 film. HC-110 will definitely show it, and give the highlights wonderful intensity. Xtol is a different beast, with more muted tones, but with much finer grain. The grain is still very beautiful, though.

- Thomas
 

jmcd

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And some gritty tones with HC-110.
 

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Dan Daniel

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HC-110 1:100- I've done 8-12 minutes. Looks like 9 minutes is going to be the standard time, but this was at 12 minutes-



Rodinal 1:50 is looking like 9-10 minutes.

 

Christopher Walrath

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HC110 with aforementioned film. 1:49 for 6.5 minutes at 68F (20)C. For both 135 and 120. Agitate 5 inversions initially. Two inversions every successive thirty seconds. Stop and Fix as usual. Clears within three minutes.
 

c.w.

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From my notes, 20C 6:30 at dil. B for 400 - i think that's the recommended time. My time for pushing to 1600 is around 12:00, pulling to ~200 is 5:45.

I don't have a lot of experience with these times, since they were mostly from when i was experimenting with the film. You can check the results on my flickr - http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=arista&w=28343783@N03

You'll have to ignore the terrible scans. The tones are correct, but they're mostly really blurry low resolution scans of contact sheets. Look at the tags for exactly what's going on camera wise, and the set description for times (on the newer ones, i don't think i put it on the older ones).
 
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