Arista EDU 120 (100ASA) + D-76 1:1

I did a roll of Arista EDU 100 in D-76 1:1, and it came out on the thin side. As the times for this combination are vague (8-10 mins), I used 9.5 minutes at 68°F (20°C). If I were to increase the time to 10 minutes, would that be enough? How to you all know how much to adjust your times after your first try with a combination? To me, an additional 30 seconds doesn't seem like it would make much of a difference, as it's barely a 5% increase.

Anyone have a time and dilution that they use for this combination that you would recommend?

yeah, their "8 to 10" minute thing drives me nuts too. There are no hard and fast rules, kentucky windage abounds in all these things. If your temperature was off a couple degrees that will affect the density too.

I'd go 10, maybe even 11, if you think they were thin. Better to thick than too thin, printing adjustment is easier.

I went with 11 minutes, D-76 1:1. I just hung the roll, and just looking at the rebate I can already tell this roll will be much better.

I usually pick the upper end on these "ranges" until I find out differently. I find 10 minutes comes out pretty close. Haven't tried 11 but I may.

I found 9 minutes at 68 degrees in D-76 1+1 worked great. Exposed at EI-100.



I wonder if your thin negs were caused by underexposure, rather than underdeveloping? This film doesn't tolerate underexposure well at all.

chriscrawfordphoto said:

I wonder if your thin negs were caused by underexposure, rather than underdeveloping? This film doesn't tolerate underexposure well at all.

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That was my initial thought when I first saw the negatives, but then I looked at the rebate, and it was underdeveloped. When this second roll dries, I'll get a photo of the two rebates side-by-side posted.

Kirks518 said:

That was my initial thought when I first saw the negatives, but then I looked at the rebate, and it was underdeveloped. When this second roll dries, I'll get a photo of the two rebates side-by-side posted.

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Don't judge them by the look of the edge markings. A lot of the films I develop have weak looking manufacturer's edge marks. I don't know why. I've seen two rolls of the same film from the same maker developed the same way have different edge mark densities!

Judge the actual images. Is there detail in the areas that represent dark tones? If not, its underexposure. If so, and the areas that represent light tones look weak, then its developing.

I've had very inconsistent edge markings on films too. It really threw me off. Now I just ignore that aspect. The last time I souped this film in D76 full strength, it got developed for 10 minutes at 68 degrees. This is a lot longer than the massive development chart recommends (they suggest 6-7 minutes for full strength) and I don't know what to tell you. They look fine. Your water/thermometer/agitation will be different I'm sure.

Just out of curiosity, how are you metering this film? I got very contrasty results at box speed, and dropped it to ISO 50 for a much better look. That seems to be the consensus here, it's really an ISO 50 film, but some folks say 32 for different developers. It depends on the way you want it to look. There's a roll in my Nikkormat right now, and I am metering it at 70 to split the difference. That's probably too high, but I'm experimenting w/ Microdol-X, and we'll see. Here's a discussion on the film speed. This is a good film for Rodinal too.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-116208.html