• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Are you going to see the eclipse in August?


Low hills of a few hundred feet should suffice for being able to see the lighted rim effect on the horizons.

In 1979, it became as dark as night very quickly. An experience you don't want to miss.

Bud Hamblen said:
The shadow of the Moon moves at about 2,500 km/hr during this eclipse. I think you would need to be fairly high up to watch it moving across the landscape.
Click to expand...

What I hope to see from a mere few hundred feet elevation is just the near-instant onrush of the umbra (shadow of totality) across a broad plain that's already darkened by the penumbra.
 
Michael Firstlight said:
So I can borrow a Sigma 150-500mm 5.6 lens for the eclipse on a D800. I am wondering if 500mm is enough or should I use my 2x converter with it for longer reach?
Click to expand...

As a rule of thumb, on a 35mm camera you can expect to record an image of the sun (or moon) equal in size to 1/100th of your focal length. So with a 500mm lens, the sun will be a 5mm diameter circle on film. Apologies in advance for a digital image in this forum, but here's a full-frame shot of the moon done with that lens. I've already booked an RV and campground out of Casper, Wyoming for the eclipse. I strongly suggest making your plans now, as I was lucky to get a spot at the KOA two weeks ago.

I will be using the 150-500mm with a filter from Thousand Oaks Optical. Once the filter arrives, I will experiment with adding a 1.4x teleconverter, but my guess is that I'll be using the lens "bare" on (sorry) a Nikon D800. With film, a 2x teleconverter might be reasonable.

 


Nice! I ended up getting the Sigma 150-600mm lens. What was the focal length used for that image? I'm considering the TC1401 1.4x extender as well. Some will want to fill the frame and go too long and forget that they have to leave quite a bit of extra room for the full outer corona which looks like it can extend upto 3 times the size of just the disc or the sun/moon - so given that detail, even adding a 1.4x might be overkill on a lens with a 500-600mm reach. Seems to me the ideal length to capture the total eclipse with the full corona (if we can get enough dynamic range), will be around 700mm as 800mm or greater might clip the extremities of the outer corona.

Mike
 
Here's my biggest concern. Cloud cover!

I'm currently making a list of possible viewing locations, all within 4-5 hours drive, from west-central Nebraska to central Missouri, which are right in the band of totality. I plan on checking the weather forecasts as the date approaches and, if necessary, plan to take off early morning if necessary. This will probably be my last time to conveniently observe and photograph a total solar eclipse, so I'm taking the day off and I'm gonna take advantage of it.

My first choice will be one of a few places just southwest of here, right in the darkest of the dark.
 
Michael Firstlight said:
Nice! I ended up getting the Sigma 150-600mm lens. What was the focal length used for that image?
Click to expand...

It was at the full 500mm. As I noted, I plan to try a 1.4x teleconverter (in my case a Kenko) before the event.
 
For those who care I think I'm approaching what I want regarding technique and exposure.

I just posted these over at Cloudy Nights asking for comments about the lack of color.

1/250:


1/500:


1/1000:


1/2000:
 
I would have to fly to Denver, my friend would pick me up, and then we would drive to Fort Collins to stay overnight. Then we would drive three hours to see the eclipse and drive three hours back to Fort Collins to the motel, ... Additionally that if I were to do some photography I would have to take cameras, lenses, tripods, ... on the airplane and buy all the filters including binocular solar filters. I am thinking that it is not sounding worth the effort.
 
tedr1 said:
The sun has a color temperature of about 5600 degrees, which is white. What color were you expecting?
Click to expand...

I was expecting white. The examples posted on the astronomy board showed distinct yellow/orange casts. I posted my shots and asked for clarification.
 
dmr said:
I was expecting white. The examples posted on the astronomy board showed distinct yellow/orange casts. I posted my shots and asked for clarification.
Click to expand...

The orange color can come from the filter being used. Some solar filters are nickel-chromium-iron deposited on glass. The image with this type of filter is decidedly orange. And then there is Photoshop.

Bud
 
Paul Howell said:
I just got the Solar filters, almost black, blocks 99.999% of the light at mid day in camera meter reads 1/350 at F 8. Need to see which meter mode works best, matrix, spot or average.
Click to expand...

I spot meter the center of the Sun and then dial it back a little, otherwise the Sun is overexposed. Average or matrix metering will not work because the meter is fooled by the background being so dark compared to the Sun. Make trial runs well in advance. NASA has good stuff on eclipse photography: https://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEhelp/eclipsePhoto.html

Bud
 
Bud Hamblen said:
The orange color can come from the filter being used. Some solar filters are nickel-chromium-iron deposited on glass. The image with this type of filter is decidedly orange. And then there is Photoshop.
Click to expand...

This is actually what the NASA SME confirmed. What I got was actually a true neutral density filter and actually I prefer it that way.
 
dmr said:
This is actually what the NASA SME confirmed. What I got was actually a true neutral density filter and actually I prefer it that way.
Click to expand...

Baader Solar Safety Film is close to neutral. If you want to make an inexpensive solar filter for a telephoto lens carefully cut a circle of Baader film and sandwich it between two clear glass filters for your lens. Baader film comes in an A4 size sheet (about 8x11) for around $40, although supplies might be running low right now. You and some friends could make several filters from one sheet. The Orion Telescopes and Binoculars glass filter optically isn't as good as Baader. I did an A-B test and the Baader image was obviously better. I tried a Kenko ND 100000 filter on a 55-300 zoom lens and was not at all satisfied. Baader has been best for me.
 
The much bigger problem for those West of the Mississippi is all of the heavy smoke from the many forest fires I am reading lots of dire posts from folks on dPreview about the issue likely not to go away anytime soon.
 
I have no plan to photograph the eclipse, I'm going to enjoy the experience from our deck. We live on a hilltop on 50 secluded acres in Ten Mile TN, not very far from the center of the path of totality and will have 2 min 36 sec of totality. We've invited friends and family , including several photographers, to share it with us. The price of admission for the photographers is a print of there best shot. I may roam around with the Crown Graphic and take a few candids, but nothing more than that.
 
wsetser said:
I have no plan to photograph the eclipse, I'm going to enjoy the experience from our deck. We live on a hilltop...
Click to expand...

Depending on your elevation above the surrounding terrain, you may be able to see and experience the onrush of the umbral part of the shadow at 2000 mph.

The view of the darkened environs is equally as interesting as the eclipse itself. All along the horizon there should be a band of light, a sliver, where you're looking out at the distant part of the sky not in full shadow.
 
I'm definitely planning on seeing it! I haven't decided on a location yet, I'm not sure if I want to be up in the mountains or out on the coast, but it will be somewhere along the path of totality in Oregon. I don't have any special filters or a long enough lens, so I'm not planning on shooting the eclipse itself, but I'm going to keep my eyes out for other unique photographic opportunities.
 
i use a the media of 5.25" floppy discs as viewing filters.
 
The eclipse will pass over my home. I anticipate taking snapshots, likely with a digital camera. At 2:30 PM, the event will be primarily overhead and any pictures I take will mostly look like everybody else's. Any photographs I take will be of the "I was there and took this picture" type. I have purchased a solar filter, so I feel obligated to use it. I will take a few analog shots for posterity.
 
I have some decent viewing glasses so we'll at least see what we can see. We aren't going to have totality here, but it should be noticeable at least. I've thought about trying to do a multiple exposure on one sheet of 4x5, but I might just watch instead. And I'll likely have to take the little guy to see it with his cub scout den anyway (which might make it worth trying the 4x5 just for the reaction). Though with my luck it'll be cloudy here.
 
I hope to also do multiple exposures on 4x5 sheet film. Three to five minutes between exposures seems to give a good spacing for the images. I suggest wrapping your Chaminox in a dark cloth to reduce any light leaks while the dark slide is out for so long. Having to pay attention to the clock is a bit of nuisance around a cub scout troop.
 

I have viewing glasses and do not intend to take photographs. I do not know where you live, but will you invite me over?
 
Jim Jones said:
Having to pay attention to the clock is a bit of nuisance around a cub scout troop.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not the most conducive environment for a big camera on a tripod either. I foresee complaints of boredom and a fair amount of goofing around before the moon is even visible in the same frame as the sun.
 
I'm in an area that will get 75% or so coverage, so I think I'm going to take my digisnapper (I assume I can say that now) and go down to the pier and photograph people putting their eyes out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register