Are You Getting A Speed Increase With FX-37?

Hi All,

I've decided, after much vacillating, that I'll be using FX-37 as my standard developer, while reserving other developers for specific circumstances. It's my understanding that FX-37 is a speed increasing formula. In fact, up to 60% speed increase had been advertised. I've shot some rolls of APX and have seen an increase over XTOL and T-Max developer. I still haven't decided if I'm seeing a 30% increase or the full 60%.

I'm wondering what speed increase, if any, have other people noticed with FX-37?

With sheet films and FX37 at 1+5, I rate Tmax100 @ 80, Tmax400 at @320 and Trix320 @ 250...Evan Clarke

Well, the dilution I'm using is 1+3 and I understand that at 1+5 dilution the speed increase is more pronounced. Why the overexposure?

Snapshot said:

Well, the dilution I'm using is 1+3 and I understand that at 1+5 dilution the speed increase is more pronounced. Why the overexposure?

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The prints are pretty good and the negs look OK. I don't believe they are overexposed.. ..EC

Not hunting fore the alleged speed increase

I regularly use FX-37 1+3 for all my tmax roll films. It works very well, and seems to keep well also. I haven't tested for the alleged speed increase.

I mix the stock solution with reverse osmosis filtered water that had been boiled, them cooled with a lid on the pot, to drive off the dissolved gasses.

I keep it in glass, and my darkroom is almost always dark and 20C or cooler year round. If i am keen, I remeber to gas blanket it with nitrogen, etc after drawing off what I need.

Just this week I finished off a litre that I had mixed 13 months ago. I could not discern any difference between the last roll in it, and the next roll, developer in the stock that I had just mixed that day.

According to the "The Film Cookbook", the solution is at it's best when used in the first 3 months after mixing. It seems to have longer longevity, which is nice. If I decide to experiment with another developer for a while, I can leave it in a bottle. How do you find the grain and sharpness when compared to other developers?

Snapshot said:

According to the "The Film Cookbook", the solutions is at it's best when used in the first 3 months after mixing. It seems to have longer longevity, which is nice. If I decide to experiment with another developer for a while, I can leave it in a bottle. How do you find the grain and sharpness when compared to other developers?

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The stock lasts quite a long time. I mix 2 liters and dilute to 1+5 so I get a lot of working solution which I try to use in a week. The working solution will start to turn yellow, then brownish. The stuff is really cheap to make and easy to mix. I have been using FX37 over a year now and find no random results except for one time when I used some brownish colored working stock. If I mix 1 liter of stock I normally use it up in a week and have had no problems. I get about 1/2 stop of speed increase over Xtol 1+1 and the neg is just better in all respects.I occasionally do some 120 roll film in 645, 6x7 and 6x9 and find no objectionalbe grain, I am old and need a little to focus the enlarger!! ..EC

I'm not all that worried about grain with this stuff

It is not what you want to shoot tmax 400 35mm on and then make 20x24, or even 11x14, but it looks ok on 8x10 prints, that were shot using film, which sometimes is appropriate in showing grain, in my book.

For me if I am looking for a speed increase, then I shouldn't be fretting if some grain comes along for the ride. I don't see a huge difference from d76 1:1, but I do not do thought tests. It was the only home brew developer that I came across that was recommended to work well with t-grains when I started looking a few years ago.

For grain conquering I dig out the slower or meduim films and take my time in developing them.

For that I drag out the plus x and pmk pyro it, or better yet, have had the urge to drag the mamiya 330 rig with me for the shot on 120 film.

I punted down to Buffalo last weekend (honestly, planned well before before the Canadian dollar took off).

I shot:
35mm tmax 400, fx-37 1+3,
120 tmax 100 fx-37 1+3,
panf+, and plus x pmk pyro 1:2:100
and the hoot of it all,
120 Panatomic X d76 1:1 - a couple of rolls came my way of this film, which I last shot at least 23 years ago

as well as a bit of c-41
35mm 200-24 kodak gold, found on the side of the road in algonquin this summer
35mm 100-36 from bulk agfa optima (check ultrafine online - they have a steal on this stuff right now)
120 160T ektachome processed as C-41
120 160NC portra that I cut down from a 70mm 100' roll. I am working on an article for posting on how I do this - becuase it can give you $2 a roll 120 film to tool with, and that does not happen in my town often any more .

I use FX37 for Ilford 3200 shot at 1600. 1:3. The grain is is nice and all the detail in the shawdows you could want.