mgb74
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If you're current reels work reliably for you, then just use them. Otherwise, buy Hewes. At least for 35mm. I still struggle a bit with 120 even on a Hewes reel.
Thanks. I do have a few left. 35mm only.I bought some from @bvy last month for something like $25 each. He has some new in box reels for 35mm film. Not sure about other formats. There’s an ad in the Classifieds.
Thanks. I do have a few left. 35mm only.
Hewes are a little thicker in construction and less prone to bending in a drop, for example. If you never drop and have good technique you can use any old reel, I've found.unless they were bent
Centering the cut edge of the film to the reel core is critical to loading any stainless steel reel (even/especially 120). The reels with clips require you to place the film just right before clipping, which isn't terribly hard once you get the hang of it, but can give you fits if you're starting out. The Hewes reels eliminate this problem by supplying two hooks on the core for the sprocket holes, so the film is perfectly centered from the beginning, and loads freely afterwards. For that matter, they're great to learn on. And even better to keep using.Hewes are a little thicker in construction and less prone to bending in a drop, for example. If you never drop and have good technique you can use any old reel, I've found.
Centering the cut edge of the film to the reel core is critical to loading any stainless steel reel (even/especially 120). The reels with clips require you to place the film just right before clipping, which isn't terribly hard once you get the hang of it, but can give you fits if you're starting out. The Hewes reels eliminate this problem by supplying two hooks on the core for the sprocket holes, so the film is perfectly centered from the beginning, and loads freely afterwards. For that matter, they're great to learn on. And even better to keep using.
I agree and never had a problem loading any straight stainless steel reel once I learned how to consistently center the film under the retaining clip.
I find it really hard to do with 120 film, to the point I decided to process all my medium format with Paterson reels/tanks. I had too many problems with the steel reels, like wrinkles that ruined some pretty nice negatives. If there is/was something as foolproof as Hewes reels for 120 film, I would pay whatever the premium they cost. I still prefer stainless tanks, as they use half the chemistry needed with Paterson tanks.
For 35mm, it was easy enough, but Hewes reels make it even easier.
I used to work at Radio Shack, we kept the toy returns in the back room, we couldn't sell them again, couldn't get them fixed, and couldn't throw them away (folks loved dumpster diving our store after Christmas); so anytime, during the "13th. month" between Christmas and New Years, when we got stressed out with returns and sales, we would go into the backroom on our breaks and smash kid's toys into little pieces with a hammer. That was the greatest perk of working at The Shack.Feels good doesn’t it
For 120, the trick, I found, is to flatten the back end (emulsion side) of the film against the core while you're rolling it on to the innermost track. This worked like magic once I got the hang of it.I find it really hard to do with 120 film, to the point I decided to process all my medium format with Paterson reels/tanks. I had too many problems with the steel reels, like wrinkles that ruined some pretty nice negatives. If there is/was something as foolproof as Hewes reels for 120 film, I would pay whatever the premium they cost. I still prefer stainless tanks, as they use half the chemistry needed with Paterson tanks.
For 35mm, it was easy enough, but Hewes reels make it even easier.
For 120, the trick, I found, is to flatten the back end (emulsion side) of the film against the core while you're rolling it on to the innermost track. This worked like magic once I got the hang of it.
Clipping off the corners of 120 helps loading stainless steel and plastic reels.
Another tip for 120 is to roll it with the taped edge to the outside of the reel. The added stiffness helps to prevent the film from unrolling during processing.
Another tip for 120 is to roll it with the taped edge to the outside of the reel. The added stiffness helps to prevent the film from unrolling during processing.
Interesting...I do it the other way around so that it stays in the center clip better.
I also have that question. I love my Unicolor film drum system— so simple and effective— but nicer reels would be an improvement.When I had my darkroom, I always used Unicolor plastic reels in a Unicolor roller drum for constant agitation - worked great. But sometimes it was a pain trying to get the whole roll of film on a reel (35mm). Now that I'm getting close to having another darkroom, I bought another Unicolor drum and reels and motor base.
Until I saw this topic, I didn't know anything about stainless steel reels. From what I've read here and seen on Youtube, I'd like to try the Hewes 35mm reels, but I'm wondering if they will fit in the unicolor drum (can hold 6 35mm reels, I think.) Does anyone know if they'll fit? It seems they should, but I don't want to order six reels only to find I can't use them in the Unicolor drum.
Thanks for any comments.
When I got my first introduction to the Unicolor Film Tank (RIP Dick you taught me a lot) my mentor used the tank with Nikkor type reels, Unicolor used to make a set of tubes, the Center Fill Tube Kit, these "Unicolor Center Fill Tubes" were used in the Unidrum so that you could fit Nikkor type reels if you removed the center springs. Finding a set of these tubes now would be impossible but something might be made. Think a version of the Jobo or Paterson center tubes with a smaller outside diameter.I also have that question. I love my Unicolor film drum system— so simple and effective— but nicer reels would be an improvement.
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