Does anyone make the D ring binders anymore?Some binders have flaps that seal the binder to keep out dirt and dust. I also would get ones with the D ring rather than a round ring. You can put in more sheets, they lay flatter, and you can turn the pages easier.
Does anyone make the D ring binders anymore?
Sadly, the warnings posted in decades past have disappeared from the internet...warnings are harder to find. What we do not know will not harm us, right?! no.
I know from first hand experience what vinyl sheet protectors can do to photocopies (the image sticks and transfers to the sleeve) and to dye sublimation prints produced by a Sony medical printer (resulting in fade/color shift). That was only after testing done due to a Kodak tech bulletin I had read in the 1980's, leading to my tests.
I don't see any of the clamshell type with D rings.Mr. Google says yes.
Bob
I don't see any of the clamshell type with D rings.
My point was that if you put negatives and unmounted slides into sleeves, there is no spacer to keep things from sticking to a sleeve made from the wrong plastic (vinyls); and even if there is a spacer, the plasticizer attacks the organic dyes of anything inside. Or if you insert an 8x10 print into that size sleeve, there is no spacer either.I once bought tons of archival slide file pages from a well known and now long gone specialist most here remember. They turned oily after a few years. So the experts are not very expert. I have stored negs in glassine and Kraft for decades, with no issues. I worked with a large company collection of negatives and plates going back to 1890, no problems. Dye Transfer Prints retain acids with few issues.
The issue with things sticking, it is common practice to use a mat to keep the images from touching the glass.
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Yeah. 50 bucks vs 10 for an O ring plastic clamshell binder. I'm not about to shell out that much when I can spend it on film & paper.Googled 'archival D-ring binder' ...
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...ch=&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&tbs=
...and this resulted from that
https://www.archivalmethods.com/product/ring-folio-binder-box
That is not the only D-ring binder, I merely offered it as ONE of several different offerings on the market, which resulted from a Google search.Yeah. 50 bucks vs 10 for an O ring plastic clamshell binder. I'm not about to shell out that much when I can spend it on film & paper.
I don't like those living hinges either but haven't had one fail so far.I need more binders for my l sheets of negatives. There's some real bargains out there, as well as a wide array of $$prices.
My concern is the fold which seems thin on all of them reguardless of price.- that it tares eventually if opened and closed frequently.
After some investigation, I would have more concern about the true 'archival' characteristics than about binder durability!
Library of Congress states this about photo storage:
"MaterialsMany commercially available enclosures are labeled "archival" or "acid-free". However, some of these same items may contain lignin, dyes, sizing agents, coatings, plasticizers, or other harmful additives. Never use enclosures made from unprocessed woodpulp paper, glassine, or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) to house or store photographs."Yet in all of the dozen or so 'archival biner' products that I read product descriptions, only ONE mentioned the nature of the carboard used (acid fee) and NONE mentioned the nature of the plastic binder material! Most ordinary binders are made from PVC, which outgasses to attach organic dyes, Unadressed in the product descriptions:
Sadly, the warnings posted in decades past have disappeared from the internet...warnings are harder to find. What we do not know will not harm us, right?! no.
- Are 'archival' binders made from polyethelene rather than PVC?! dunno.
- And while cardboard may be 'acid free', do they contain Lignin, which also outgasses fumes which attack organic dyes?! dunno
I know from first hand experience what vinyl sheet protectors can do to photocopies (the image sticks and transfers to the sleeve) and to dye sublimation prints produced by a Sony medical printer (resulting in fade/color shift). That was only after testing done due to a Kodak tech bulletin I had read in the 1980's, leading to my tests.
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