There are some good cameras out there, but they are all compromises in one way or another (or several). I had a lot of trouble with this several years ago when I was re-outfitting myself. Some of these cameras are a lot of money, but it’s not like I can go to the camera store and try them. Those days are long gone. So you’re stuck trying to come to the best conclusion/decision you can by cobbling together specs and opinions (most of which you have to take with a grain of salt because everyone has different standards etc.). I currently have two cameras because that turned out to be a reasonable compromise for me without spending megabucks. Not perfect, but good enough. I have always preferred a monorail for most of my pictures, but I also have a Chamonix. These are pretty difficult to beat for the price if you’re looking for a field type folder or non-folder. But obviously very different than an Arca monorail. I’d like to get my hands on an Arca one day to see what it is like. It was on my list along with the Toyo and a few others. All of this because I had sold my Sinar, which I should never have done.
My 8X10 is a Phillips folder, the Godfather, so to speak, of all the modern composite simplified designs, including Chamonix. But for wide angle lens use, or at least "normal" focal length lenses and shorter, dedicated architectural cameras lacking base rail tilts, having axis tilts only, are faster to set up and operate than folders. Of course, they need box-shaped carrying containers, but compact quite small the other direction. Then, if you select a model with a "universal" bellows, essential half-pleated and half-bag, that single bellows becomes quite versatile. Ebony made the finest of these, but being no longer made, are now especially expensive, whether new or used. But they are the most precise of wooden brands, with the best hardware (machined titanium). Chamonix also makes very nice non-folders like the 45Hs-1. Don't expect the same kind of detent precision as a die-cast metal camera. You need to use your loupe more to double check settings. But this is one logical way to dramatically reduce carrying weight and bulk, as well as your budget!
Remember, you can supplement rise somewhat with a vertically offset hole position in the lensboard. Fast very wide angle lenses tend to be heavy, so this method of attaining more rise is more stable than overtly tall front risers.
Never liked ball heads.
JWMster raised a potentially important item above - cost of accessories. Arca is expensive. I have a Linhof monorail and even a wide angle bellows (necessary for me) is monstrously expensive.
I’m not knocking companies like Arca and Linhof for that. I’m only highlighting it as something to keep in mind for your budget.
There are some good cameras out there, but they are all compromises in one way or another (or several). I had a lot of trouble with this several years ago when I was re-outfitting myself. Some of these cameras are a lot of money, but it’s not like I can go to the camera store and try them. Those days are long gone. So you’re stuck trying to come to the best conclusion/decision you can by cobbling together specs and opinions (most of which you have to take with a grain of salt because everyone has different standards etc.). I currently have two cameras because that turned out to be a reasonable compromise for me without spending megabucks. Not perfect, but good enough. I have always preferred a monorail for most of my pictures, but I also have a Chamonix. These are pretty difficult to beat for the price if you’re looking for a field type folder or non-folder. But obviously very different than an Arca monorail. I’d like to get my hands on an Arca one day to see what it is like. It was on my list along with the Toyo and a few others. All of this because I had sold my Sinar, which I should never have done.
One minor rebuttal to JWM : the presence of smooth rods versus geared ones owes nothing to "slop". Just the opposite. Numerous brands of monorails are every bit as precisely machined as Arcas. Even many mechanical transports in dusty gritty factories and food plants rely on linear motion devices having tightly sealed sleeve bearings or highly durable delrin-like plastic sleeves designed to keep dust and other fine particles out, year after year. That's hard to accomplish with exposed gears without special sealed covers adding substantial extra cost and weight.
But the kind of risers or standards used on wooden and composite cameras rely more on slots that do need a small amount of extra tolerance to accommodate minor expansion/contraction variables. No big deal. One simply learns to be aware of the fact and double-check critical focus on the ground glass if the shot is intended for a significant degree of enlargement. It's almost a non-issue in common 4x5 applications. I would get more nitpicky, however, if a roll-film or digital back were involved, since the degree of magnification in reproduction is going to be significantly greater, and working with much shorter focal length lenses per desired perspective requires even more acute focus.
B&H has the specs listed. Ironically, Arca's own Euro site doesn't, unless it's buried in some back file hard to locate. But if you want some special configuration, I'd call them or e-mail them directly. Someone will speak English.
Rod Klukas is "the official" US dealer and maintains some inventory here. He knows his stuff: Rod Klukas, US Representative Arca-Swiss USA, PO Box 28450, Tempe, AZ 85285.
Phone: (480) 206-4770 Mobile; Skype: rod.klukas; www.rodklukas.com Instagram: @arcaswissusa
Rod will walk you through the process and Zoom or FaceTime to show you the choices. He'll provide instruction, he'll tutor in person, and probably knows more about this than some us will ever know. Highly recommended. If you're ready to go, he'll have it to you in no time. B&H doesn't exactly save a dime on stuff they don't inventory.
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