APX100 in Pyrocat HD

[Andrew Moxom]

So,I know this film has been and gone for a while, but I have some in date APX100 35mm film that I shot a few rolls in my Mamiya 6 MF with panoramic adaptor. I want to soup this film in Pyrocat, but am not sure of a starting point and temp for it. I normally soup NEOPAN-400 in pyrocat HD 1:1:100 for 14mins @ 70 deg F and use Sandy's extreme minimal agitation method to agitate 4 times through devleopment.

These negs have snow scens of quite high SBR and I figured pyrocat would tame them quite well. Any idea on a starting point for time and temp???

Thanks

 

[Erik L]

Andrew, I'd like to know as well as I have about 50 sheets of 4x5 to burn through
Erik

 

[k_jupiter]

My suggestion?
WD2D+. NOT rotary processed.

Burn either your 120 or your 4x5, develop as per John Wimberley's instructions. I find E.I. 80 to work well.

tim in san jose

 

[Philippe-Georges]

Andrew, I'd like to know as well as I have about 50 sheets of 4x5 to burn through
Erik

I have processed APX 100 4"x5" sheets in Pyro-HD, 'traditionally' exposed for the shadows at 100 ASA...

This is what I did with fairly good results :

JOBO 2500 System tank with the JOBO 4x5 sheet film holder system. To my humble opinion one of the best for sheet film processing. But Combiplan, hangers in hard rubber tank's and open tray's are good too.

- Pre wet : tab water @ 20°C for the time needed to mix the working solution of the developer.
- Developer : home brewed Sand King's Pyro-HD 1+1+100 @ 20°C for 16 min.. Agitation : 30 sec. at first, then each 60 sec. a gentle agitation for 5 sec.
- Stop bath : twice, with tap water, for 30 sec. with constant agitation @ 20°C.
- Fixer : alkaline C-41 colour fixer (what is left of an Agfa FX-U stock, 1+4), only used for B&W. Two bath, each of 2 min. with nearly constant agitation @ 20°C. Any kind of alkalic fixer is good too.
- Wash : the first one, for 30 sec. running water @ +/-20°C.
- K.H.C.A.: 2 min. @ 20 °C, regarding some comments, this (and the first wash) can be omitted, but it would do no harm.
- Wash : the final one, for about 5 min, running tab water @ +/-20°C set at a flow that is changing the whole contend of the tank for +/-three to four times.
- Final bath : ADOSTAB for 2 min (= Sistan substitute).
- Dry : at room conditions

This is what works for me, I hope you can find some useful information for your own processing.

Good luck,

Philippe

 

[jim appleyard]

Andrew, this is one of my favorite combos. EI 80, 1+1+100, 13 min., 1 inversion/min., 68F/20C. Great midtones and a deep stain.

 

[Andrew Moxom]

Thanks Everyone! I will try Jims approach

 

[luxikon]

@leicam5

Sorry, what does K.H.C.A. mean?

 

[Philippe-Georges]

@leicam5

Sorry, what does K.H.C.A. mean?

This is the short for the famous KODAK HYPO CLEARING AGENT. There are several alternatives for this product, ILFORD and others have them.

Philippe

 

[Adrian Twiss]

@leicam5

Sorry, what does K.H.C.A. mean?

In his very comprehensive article posted on www.unblinkingeye.com Sandy King suggests a post fix bath of 1% sodium sulphite (10g of anhydrous sodium sulphite in 1 litre of water)