I accept the rule, I guess all the other suggestions seemed somehow to irritate me, in particular the idea that ilfochrome paper and chems are easily gotten.
water is boiling now.
I accept the rule, I guess all the other suggestions seemed somehow to irritate me, in particular the idea that ilfochrome paper and chems are easily gotten.
I have a guy in Canada who will print for me if I can find chems, but no luck so far...
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm saying that the suggestions for "traditional work around" are honestly kind of dumb
There's a lot to reply to...
For those that think its easy to find ilfochrome paper and chemistry, tell me where, I've been trying to print a Kodachrome slide I have since last year and have only found one person who has the paper but no chemistry. So I call BS on that.
I also want to reiterate that I still don't know where I can even get an optical print from a lab, I know there are probably a few places in NY but I don't sell a lot of prints and its never mattered to anyone except you guys, and since no one has asked to buy a print from me, I've not looked. There's only one photo lab around here (I actually live in CT) and they don't print optically.
All the stuff you guys suggest costs a lot of money, it's truly a stupid thing to go and make a print and waste more film to make a copy by photographing the print with B&W film (on 35mm when the image is 120 so you're also losing tons of detail) and then process and scan that all just to post it in my gallery, that's really quite a waste if time and money and frankly I can't see why anyone would bother doing that just for an APUG gallery. I'm already scanning it, so I've introduced non-traditional process in the mix, what the hell's the difference after that.
I'm not saying I'm mad about the policies, I got over that a while ago, I'm saying that the suggestions for "traditional work around" a are honestly kind of dumb, and the suggestion that its EASY to traditionally print slides is a joke. If its do easy why don't I send you my slides and you can make lots of prints for me
I like you all, and thanks for the thorough amount of response, but you're all nuts
For those that simply answered my initial question, I thank you. And those that complimented my photo as it stands with no conversion, I thank you, and I agree I like the color, it's just so far from the original tone, that's why I felt B&W might be better.
For those that suggested wild ideas, I just ask you to realize its not not fair to me because I have no access, I guess that's why I get set off buy these suggestions, because I have no one who I can even approach to do this for me and certainly no way to do it myself. Yes I post A LOT because I don't have a single film person in my life, NO ONE shoots film that I know, even the pro's I know don't shoot any film and don't have a clue, and it makes me feel lonely, so I come here to talk about it. I would certainly post less if there were real film interactions in my daily life.
I just woke up mind you so I'm a little grumpy, I haven't had coffee and my car broke last night, have to work on that and I have $60 in my bank account right now... Not in a great mood so sorry if I sound like a jerk, I'm not I swear.
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
it's truly a stupid thing to go and make a print and waste more film to make a copy by photographing the print with B&W film (on 35mm when the image is 120 so you're also losing tons of detail) and then process and scan that all just to post it in my gallery, that's really quite a waste if time and money and frankly I can't see why anyone would bother doing that just for an APUG gallery. I'm already scanning it, so I've introduced non-traditional process in the mix, what the hell's the difference after that.
I didn't say it was EASY, just possible. B&H sells the chemistry. And I didn't say it was cheap either. Just calling BS on the "impossible"/"NOBODY does it". If you REALLY want to print from transparencies, contact Stephen Frizza (he's a member here on APUG and owns a photo lab in Australia. IIRC he bought a huge stock of Ilfochrome paper and chemistry so he could continue to support the process).
I've got to admit that I, too, find the idea that copying the slide to B&W film just to scan it is OK, but scanning the slide directly isn't, strange. To be consistent, I would think all scans would be banned.
Thanks, now I've had my coffee...
And sorry for being a jerk, I feel bad now that I've had my coffee, now it's time to work on the car...
hi stone
you can probably print it optically as a black and white image
in a single step using ilford direct positive paper.
i haven't used it yet, a lot of people make in camera prints with ...
and i am guessing it can be enlarged on.
otherwise you can ask a lab to make a black and white print ( as a negative )
and you can go to the hobby store and get sun print paper, and a sheet of glass, and some wax
you heat up the print on the stove, rub wax on it, wipe up the excess
then put it on the sun paper, and in the sun for a long while ...
it will be blue, just like the original image ( sun prints are blue )
if you want to get rid of the blue .. get some super washing soda at the grocery store
and put some in a pan big enough to fit the negative ...
then soak the print
get some fresh water to rinse it ..
its pretty easy, and almost effortless and you don't need a darkroom or fancy chemicals..
have fun !
john
I wish SOMEONE would come out with a good panchromatic black and white paper for printing color negs in black and white again, now that Panalure is gone. Hey, Simon of Ilford, you listening?
If it were not for scanners connected to display monitors via the internet sharing pictures would involve mailing work across the world by international post. Some people may remember a time when that was exactly what happened.
Right, and I realised I could just get some Ilford Direct Positive and print. Doh! I've even tried that with decent results. Dumb-A me.
Wasn't around when Panalure was here. Not even a thought, really.
It seems like the blue shift might actually help in printing directly to paper in this case---in general it has the color-response problems mentioned, but I don't think "red areas will print black" is a problem with this particular slide!
-NT
That's an idea, but it isn't panchromatic. You will have color/tonal distortions and possibly a rather grainy look where the red areas just don't print (I've seen this using conventional black and white paper to print color negs.)
If you can get hold of some Panalure paper (I have some in my freezer, and no it's not for sale) you could probably make a negative image print of it, then contact print that paper negative onto any black and white paper you chose. I may have to try that with some of my slides - the thought hadn't occcurred to me before!
I wish SOMEONE would come out with a good panchromatic black and white paper for printing color negs in black and white again, now that Panalure is gone. Hey, Simon of Ilford, you listening?
however I feel it would look much better as a B&W converted image.
There really is nothing wrong with using digital methods to do anything that is proposed. One just needs to exclude the results from APUG galleries.
There are lots of other things that Stone can post in the galleries. And Stone certainly doesn't seem to lack opportunities for participation here, so I'm not too worried.
The APUG galleries are interesting, informative and valuable, but APUG isn't really set up primarily as a gallery resource. Flickr and the like are better for that.
There is no ethical issue if you indicate to the viewer what you are doing. For example "Digitally Altered Scan of Kodachrome 35mm Slide." APUG is not the site for presentation of "Digitally Altered" images.
However, If you want to contact print the slides onto Wet Plate and scan those B&W images to post here, that is great.
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