I don't use TF-4. The stuff is too expensive for what it is and I don't see any advantage to using it for film. Fiber prints are another story. TF-4 washes out of fiber prints much more easily than an acid fixer if you don't use a hypo clearing agent. If you do use a hypo clearing agent, it's about the same.
But that's not what I want to address here. There seems to be a bit of confusion, not necessarily in this thread but in general, about what the differences between using water vs. acid for a stop bath. I've done a test to see for myself if any appreciable addtional development occurs when water instead of acid is used for a stop bath. For the test I used the same camera, the same film (Tri-X 400 bulk loaded from the same batch
and identical tungsten lighting, and exposure. Development was done in D-76 1+1 for 10.5 minutes at 20 deg C. Fix was for 3 minutes in Kodak Flexicolor C-41 fixer diluted from concentrate as recommended by the manufacturer. In short everything except the stop bath was done identically. The acid stop was carried out for 30 seconds with constant agitation, followed by two quick fill and dump cycles to prevent carrying stop bath over to the fixing bath. The water stop consisted of a quick fill and dump, followed by two 1 minute soaks with intermittent agitation, and finally another quick fill and dump. As an aside; the C-41 fixer is slightly acidic, contains no hardeners, has very little odor, and is extremely economical.
After both films were dry, there was no difference of any consequence between the two test strips. The two test strips printed the same during a single print session. I suppose that with a sensitive enough densitometer, some differences could be found. But for all practical purposes of general pictorial photography, there were none. Bottom line; as long as your development times are in the 10 minute or more range, don't sweat it. Just do as you've been doing and eveything will work out.
My next experiment might yield something a little different. Instead of a quick fill and dump as the first step of a water stop sequence, I plan to fill the tank with only enough water to cover the film, then let it sit for 5 minutes with no agitation. I'll follow that with a few quick fill and dump cycles to prevent any carrover of developer to fixer. Perhaps there will be enough very dilute active developer during the elongated soak cycle to make some noticeable density change.