Anyone using 8x10 LF Tri-X 320 in PMK for Pt/Pd?

I am staring a new journey with some Tri-X 320 8x10 large format sheet film in PMK. I have it on order so I am waiting a few days for the chemicals to arrive.

I have a very stable and reliable process that I use for my LF Tri-X when making traditional silver gelatin enlargements, but I am trying this option for Pt/Pd prints.

I will be using PMK from Photo Formulary 1:2:100 liquid.

I would be interested in learning the following when using tray development:

1.) EI rating of 8x10 LF Tri-X 320 for PMK development? (my guess is 200 to 250)

2.) Do you presoak film? (my guess is this could go either way. I will be using TF-4 as my alkaline fixer)

3.) Temp of developer? (my guess is 70F)

4.) Do you use the PMK dev as one shot? If not, what do you do?

5.) Development time? (Based on Photo Formulary sheet they claim 14 min, but I am guessing that is too long for tray development)

6.) Agitation? My plan was to use a continual slow rocking back in forth motion. I will be using 11x14 trays to hopefully not have edge development issues.

7.) In regards to metering, my plan was to meter as I do using the zone system (-2 stops for shadow detail). Any comments about metering when using PMK for Pt/Pd printing?


Thanks,

Tim

I have developed 8x10 in trays, but I usually use the shuffle method, and can safely develop 4-6 sheets at a time. I did use PMK for a time, but have switched to Pyrocat HD, as my printing times have come down for alt. process.
An alternative to slowly rocking the tray, one which i use for 11x14 negatives, is to lift the film out of the developer, the put it back down, and push under the developer, then leave it without agitation for one minute. Rocking wil work.

The time given of 14 minutes, is the time I was using tor Tri-X, for platinum/palladium printing with continuous agitation, using the shuffle method, so it should be a reasonable starting point.

PMK is definitely a one shot developer, the dev is heavily oxidized after the session.

Yes a presoak is necessary, otherwise you may have trouble separating the films because of the high alkalinity of the PMK developer.

Fred, thanks for confirming the 14 min starting time, I appreciate it.

I just switched over to a UV printer. I have my standard printing times tested and ready to go, so just waiting on the chemicals. I've been scanning my HC110-B negatives and making a digital negative because I wasn't able to get the Pt/Pd prints that I wanted. I was able to make awesome fiber silver gelatin prints, hence the reason for this new approach. Also, thanks for confirming the presoak. I normally do 2 minutes with my current process. Did you find 2 minutes suffice in PMK? I will of course be using a water stop and TF-4 for fixer and no Hyper Clear, etc. I've read a wash time of 30 minutes should be good.


Thanks,

Tim

I do not think two minutes is necessary, when shuffling, I just go through the stack twice in the pre-soak, or until the film feels slippery, i.e. there is not sticking to any of the other sheets, probably no more than a minute. Its purpose is the get everything evenly wet, and to mostly remove the anti-halation layer on the film.

I usually use two trays with water, to help preserve my acid stop bath.