Anyone tray process ULF B&W reversal?

PKM-25 · Oct 10, 2014

I am wondering if anyone has managed to tray process ULF black and white film in reversal process? I am toying with the idea of it in 16x20 for a specific fine art project but want to get some feedback on it in terms of feasibility. I am thinking films like FP4 or Delta 100 in reversal.

Thoughts?

chrisaisenbrey · Oct 10, 2014

I cant speak for ULF, but I do 8x10 reversal developing in tray. (To enlarge negatives for carbon print) Since I use permanganate bleach, oxidation is a problem. I prepare the permanganate without the sulfuric acid and place the sulfuric acid next to the tray. As soon as the film is in the stop tray I add the sulfuric acid to the permanganate and transfer the film immediately. That works quite well.

pdeeh · Oct 10, 2014

chris, how long does the bleach last in the tray once mixed?

PKM-25 · Oct 10, 2014

I was also thinking about using my Jobo CPP2 and a 3063 drum which will handle up to 20x24, might buy a spare drum though since the chemistry is a bit more "loaded"...

wildbill · Oct 10, 2014

use the jobo

chrisaisenbrey · Oct 10, 2014

pdeeh said:
chris, how long does the bleach last in the tray once mixed?

I think it last just long enough to bleach the silver. At the end of the bleach process the tray and the film is already stained with brown manganese dioxide. But this will go with the clearing solution.

pdeeh · Oct 10, 2014

thanks. I asked in a thread of my own a while back but unfortunately didn't it noticed by anyone who'd actually done it. i was trying paper reversals.

PKM-25 · Oct 10, 2014

wildbill said:
use the jobo

Yeah, given the steps of the process and using acid, that seems the safest way to go. I might just go whole hog and do 20x24 for max impact although that limits me to FP4. Time to start trying it out in 4x5 I guess....

PKM-25 · Oct 16, 2014

I do have another idea, what about contact printing onto Ortho Litho film? It seems I could hit the D-Max requirements. I am picking up some 4x5 Arista to give it a shot...

StoneNYC · Oct 16, 2014

PKM-25 said:
I do have another idea, what about contact printing onto Ortho Litho film? It seems I could hit the D-Max requirements. I am picking up some 4x5 Arista to give it a shot...

Well then you can work with a safelight at least

As I mentioned privately I think the only issue is how thin the Ortho is.

removed account4 · Oct 16, 2014

ortho film is like aero roll film ... a drag. there is always a learning curve for this sort of stuff
i hope you have a ton of 4x5 or 8x10 film to test your reversal process with, and it is film
which is exactly the same film stock as the ULF film you hope to shoot.

have you ever thought of contact printing a positive ? ( i used to do it all the time on hand coated GLASS )
it might be a less toxic situation, and a negative, if things go off the rails.

PKM-25 · Oct 16, 2014

I think you missed it gents, I meant shooting on FP4, D100 and then contact printing that onto Ortho Litho film, it will take reversal process right out of the equation. I would be souping the Litho in dektol or A&B litho developer. It is also working from a negative so I can do contact prints as well. The thin aspect does not bother me, except for some camera tests before I get Ilford ULF stock, litho film will rarely see the camera.

I just ordered 50 sheets of litho in 4x5 and some soup to play with on existing negs, ought to know by next week if it will work or not.

But 16x20 contact prints...I am doing this, I just picked up a Bostick and Sullivan 16x20 contact print frame today, now looking for a Nikon 450 F9 M and to sell some gear...;-)

davido · Jan 28, 2015

Hey PKM-25, how did it go?
I'm a little late but just found this thread. I'm also thinking of trying out reversal with lith. This film is a difficult to work with. However, it is a very sharp film, probably mostly because it i so thin.
I used it for making enlarged negatives for a few years with some success but it's so difficult to control the contrast. Though apparently it supposed to work well for reversal?
Check out this PDF article by Liam Lawless. He recommends lith: http://www.alternativephotography.com/pdf/enlarged-neg-by-reversal.pdf
He says " ... a contrasty emulsion is needed. Lith film is ideal, and capable of excellent
continuous tones with the reversal method. Even if a very low maximum density is required, full detail is
preserved throughout the tonal range."
I am curious to know how it worked out for you and if you used the Jobo?

andreios · Jan 29, 2015

Have a peep on Wolfgang Moersch's website, he has a nice write up on the topic of reversal development of litho films.

pdeeh · Jan 29, 2015

link for Moersch article: http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/files/articles/FO5 Reversal development.pdf

(but it is specific to Wephota lith film)

dr5chrome · Jan 30, 2015

We can effectively run up to 11x14. with rack modifications, up to 20x24.. if you can find film that big - HP5, FP4, D100 LF is run here.

dw/dr5

PKM-25 said:
I am wondering if anyone has managed to tray process ULF black and white film in reversal process? I am toying with the idea of it in 16x20 for a specific fine art project but want to get some feedback on it in terms of feasibility. I am thinking films like FP4 or Delta 100 in reversal.

Thoughts?

eclarke · Jan 31, 2015

I echo Vinny..Use Jobo print drums. Don't fasten them in, just drop them in loose and use enough agitation..Agitation is your friend.

Anyone tray process ULF B&W reversal?

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