Ian, I have a 3.5E
The only manual I've found is for the 2.8 Standard so I'm a bit leary of taking that for fact for the 3.5E
I see that KEH has a "kit" for 24 exposures as well as 16 but I'm not sure what that is.
Thank you.
My former MX-EVS had a small red button on the side to be able to reset the counter to zero, which as far as I understand it, was a factory conversion of the camera to be able to use 220 film. I never used 220 in it and had to be careful not to push the button. It caused a bit of grief until I understood what it was for.
BTW, the kits you speak of, Tom, are for making 16 and 24 exposures (smaller size) on 120 film.
Tom, there's 3 versions of the 3.5E, Dan at Dead Link Removed has a model identification list, but it's on other sites as well. Mine's a 3.5E 3
Just checked and none of the E3's take 220 without a conversion, they ere built before the format came out. This site will convert them. New models after 1965 should take 220
As far as I know some models had the possibility to take both 120 and 220. Changing was possible via setting a small lever on the back. SL66 definitely had it, as 3,5F and 2,8F did. Later in the 80s, when the use of 220 film decreased, this feature was abandoned, therefore later models like SL66E/SE and Rolleiflex GX/FX lack it.
Benjamin
Oh, and I personally never used this feature, because 220 film is quite rare now :-(
The early 2.8F's and 3.5F's pre-date 220 film and on the list that can be converted so it depends on the date of manufacture.
220 was never very popular in the UK, I rarely saw it on a professional dealers shelves, I never used it and nor did any of the other photographers I knew.
You can shoot 220 in an E3 without a switch. After frame 12 you only crank the advance lever to about 7 oclock and then reverse the lever back to the top to recock the shutter and it will work fine but you must keep track of the number. Another way that works with some Rolleis (not the F) is after frame 12 slightly crack open the door and then re close it and it will reset the counter to 0. One other way is to shoot the first 12 frames and then crank the film out of the camera and put it back in the start like a new roll and it will shoot 12 frames again on the end of the roll.
Sorry Tom I did not mean to write E3, I meant 3.5E. I am not sure if your camera will reset when you crack the door open, you will have to test it once. The 220 film should fit because it is the same size as the 120 film. With 220 film they don't run the paper backing the whole way, they just have it taped on both ends. So when you crack the back a little with film in you will have to be very careful not to fog the film. Also if it resets to zero you are going to lose a frame when you advance it to 1. There is a switch that can be installed on the E. It is not the 12/24 switch you normally see, it is a little button up by the strap hanger that you push to reset the counter. Harry Fleenor can instal it for you. Or maybe Krimar can do it for you since you are in NJ where he is. You can ask him: http://www.krimarphoto.com/
Resetting the counter is only part of the problem. The pressure plate must be in a different position because 220 does not have the paper backing that 120 has.
Resetting the counter is only part of the problem. The pressure plate must be in a different position because 220 does not have the paper backing that 120 has.
No Steve, in the Rolleiflex's (that can be converted) the film plane is governed by the guides that the pressure plate pushes the film 120 or 220 against, but that pesur plate must have a stronger spring mechanism
It's true that other cameras like the Yashicamat's do rotate the pressure plate but that's not necessary with the way the Rollei film path/pressure plate works.