anyone ever stand-dev 35mm plusx in rodinal?

I'm experimenting with a very 'insensitive' Kodak densitometer to basically 'learn by doing'. I'm trying 35mm PlusX in Rodinal just to see what happens. Its nice to read about this in forums and books, but trying it is more fun. I'm also learning to plot a curve - in a very crude way.

I just wondered if anyone ever tried this combination? PlusX 35mm and Rodinal (high dilution). I'm interested in stand/semi-stand developing. My goal is the superb edge effect I see in my 4x5 Efke 100 in Rodinal. Unfortunately, it was the one time I forgot to write down what it was I did, so repeating it......well.........

so now it's trial and error. If I follow the manufacturer's recommended developing...well...there are so many opinions that it's difficult to know. I guess that's why they call it trial and error. I'm leaning towards 1:100. I found 1:50 too contrasty, and 1:75 almost there.

Has anyone ever tried this combo? Did it work?

Thanks!

Dorothy

When I first shot 35mm after 120 I wondered why plus X looked so fuzzy.
my brother told me Rodinal 1:75 16 min at 68., IIRC
The edge effects from Rodinal made it decent, the fine grain of PlusX did the rest
I didn't pursue 35mm but used Rodinal and VP 120 for brilliant sharp negs

Ed Workman said:

When I first shot 35mm after 120 I wondered why plus X looked so fuzzy.
my brother told me Rodinal 1:75 16 min at 68., IIRC
The edge effects from Rodinal made it decent, the fine grain of PlusX did the rest
I didn't pursue 35mm but used Rodinal and VP 120 for brilliant sharp negs

Click to expand...

You should try 120 Plus-X in a Pyro developer. You will forget about Rodinal forever.

I've developed 35mm T-max 100 in Rodinal at 1:100 for 50 minutes agitating for 30seconds then again for 30seconds at the halfway point with great success. I've also developed APX100 in Rodinal 1:100 for 1hour with the same agitation procedure with great success. I rated both films at 100. I like contrasty negatives. Hope this helps. Shawn

Yes to the question, see my first post in this thread:
www.apug.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26327
I also tried the same test and developed the Plus-X in Rodinal 1:50 and found only little edge effect.However, in my case with 11x prints of actual photographs I could not see any difference using the two methods of development.
Hope you will post any results.

I'm planning to do further tests with Rodinal as soon as I can find some cheap film to do it with. The stuff I'll be getting in medium format has to go to Colorado with me, but I'm on the lookout for some Plus-X and some ACROS in 35mm that's expired to have some fun with stand development again. If I find something I'll let you know.

You might want to see this thread I had a while back for Fortepan 100 in Rodinal.
http://www.apug.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31254
I've been using the method DF Cardwell gave, with good results. I've tried his method now with Rodinal and ID11 on Fortepan 100, Foma 200, and Fuji Acros 100 with good results. The fuji and foma were high contrast daylight sitiuations, so this works with day and night.

James,

thanks all for your help. I think I need to actually take the time to print the results instead of just scanning the negs, and not rely so heavily on a cheap densitometer. As they say...the results are in the pudding....

I just shot some 4x5 Efke 25 at EI 12. Can't wait to try stand developing with these.

Thanks,
Dorothy

I do Ilford fp4+ in Rodinal 1:100 lately. agitate the first minute, then about 45 minutes at 68 degrees. Seems great, but I have done more testing than shooting. Still, I have my "real" film speed, and also a plus and minus times.

Oddly, any film that I take the trouble to test, I get low personal speeds- to get .1 over FB+F, I have to rate Ilford FP4+ at between 20 and 32, depending on how much contrast I'm developing for. I think it is my light meter, so I don't worry much.