You may regret asking that question.
Indeed!
If you are having problems with recognizing highlight density then simply teach yourself to do it. Cut a wet print in half, dry one half then compare the dry to the wet. After you do that a few times you should be able to see what you need to see. I evaluate prints in the fix. Works fine as long as you know what you are looking for.
It sounds like you like "open" prints, so another tip for you is to look at the wet print then hold it up to a strong light. If you see more detail in the shadows you might be printing it too dark for your tastes. I personally have a tendency to print too dark because I really like blacks and deep prints. I have to fight myself on this but at least I realize it which is half the battle.
I am with Bob as far as burning with a #5 but like everything it depends. I also typically dodge with a #5 or #00 filter blue-gooed to a flexible wire. Frankly there is nothing worse to me than a dodge halo and it is nearly impossible to get one if you are using a filter. I also use filter sheets typically to dodge vast swaths of the print, like a foreground for instance. I rarely use cardboard for dodging.
I like things as simple as can be so I follow the old principle of Occam's Razor. Usually the simplest solution is the best. Once I saw a printing diagram for a print from a popular photographer and the only think it told me was that the diagram was made to make the image look like it was impressively difficult to print. Printing really is a simple thing. All you are doing is getting the right amount of light onto the paper to make the image look the way you want. Simple. Try not to over complicate it.
He has arisen.
Printing really is a simple thing. All you are doing is getting the right amount of light onto the paper to make the image look the way you want. Simple. Try not to over complicate it.
I just hope his sidekick MM does not surface as well.
Huh? There's MM also? Are there NN and QQ, too?
Is this a family affair??
Bob Carnie: I just wanted to ask you to clarify this sentence from an earlier post (page 8 on this thread) where you said:
"I suggest burning with both depending upon your needs,
I look for slight difference between the white under the easel blades and lets say a white sky, the moment I see the line of the blades is when wet I stop. Same goes for snow."
I'm just not sure what you mean by "the moment I see the line of the blades is when I stop"??
Thanks. I'm learning from this thread.
Hope that makes sense.
Bob
The print is merely the device in which people view the photograph I made, the effort in the darkroom is always highly secondary to the effort I put into the camera...
Wow... I completely disagree with this. I don't see how you can separate the two, or give less effort in one. If your printing isn't to high standards, you'll never convey whatever it is you're trying to bring to the viewer.
PS- from the images you've posted, it appears as if you do make an effort in the printing stage.
It's not that I don't want to be a good printer, I do and will have to master it to a large degree over time. It's that the printing stage is not where most of the work is for me, it is out in the field, pre-exposure. I use somewhat of a journalistic ethic in all my "Fine Art" work so coming home with great negatives really makes the job on the printing side a lot easier, more consistent. Like others have said on here, I keep it as simple as possible, including using only one paper for the final and RC for quick and dirty eval prints, hand outs for friends.
I like to keep the percentage of darkroom time to shoot time at around 25%......I loathe being indoors...
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