Any Rolleiflex to Shy away from ?

[Grim Tuesday]

I am a huge fan of National Camera Exchange. I bought my Hasselblad and Pentax 67 bodies from them. They price things well, are very honest, and describe their cameras accurately. If it's in "AVG" condition from them, it is what other vendors would call "excellent minus." Anything above "AVG" rating means that it looks cosmetically nice, because AVG means everything's working and there are no optical defects. Also, they have actually qualified people do the rating, and it's for function not just cosmetics. Because they offer a 6 month warranty, if they think a camera is likely to fail in the next six months they won't sell it in any condition but as-is. They are also very happy to talk on the phone about the specifics of what they're selling, unlike Adorama or KEH which will give you vague statements like about "it may contain fungus" and refuse to answer specific questions.

All that said, OP, I don't understand why you would want to get an Automat, for all the reasons I said in my other post.

 

[absalom1951]

Since I know very little of Rolleiflex I like to keep my mind wide open. There are quite a few Rolleiflex models, its kinda confusing so I'm studying them all, starting from the very first. From your and others opinions I am leaning more at a 3.5e model. But, why not check them all out ? I'm bound to learn something ( hopefully) The Rolleiflexes at KEH were described as ugly and for the very reasons you described plus, upon in their description of ugly stated the lens could have defects that could effect image quality. So, I'm pondering on purchasing either of them..

All this said, I appreciate and respect everyone's opinion who has answered this post

 

[Kino]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Rolleimagic TLR as one to avoid.

 

[ic-racer]

The "Made In Germany" models are more reliable in my experience (I keep the failed ones for spare parts)
This is the lists of the 13 cameras I still own:

"Made In Singapore" -- 3 cameras still working, 3 cameras failed in my ownership, one E36 failed
"Made in Germany" --- 5 cameras working, one E36 working, 2 cameras failed in my ownership.

The working SL3003 was the only one purchased NEW with warranty. All the others may have suffered abuse from prior owners.

List of working German cameras:
6008i
SL3003
SL2000F
Rolleicord V
Rolleiflex 2.8F

List of failed German cameras:
SL3003
SL2000F

List of working Singapore cameras:
SL35M
SL35E
35LED

List of failed Singapore cameras:
SL35M
SL35E

Batteries were mentioned. The SL35M runs from Zinc cells (voltage close to mercury).
SL2000F and SL3003 run from Eneloop batteries.
6008i runs from a 3 cell LiPo that fits in the battery case after removing the Nicads.
The 2.8F is solar powered

 

[mshchem]

Being in central Iowa there's not to many camera shops. What few are, they are mostly all digital. A couple in Des Moines, over a hour away and a few in the eastern part of the state. I'll have to do some checking . I'm fairly close to Minneapolis up north and closer to Omaha. Heck, KC is only 3 hours away.

I agree, best to check a camera out hands on if possible.

Might get that $10 guide. Seems kinda pricey for 8 pages , but if it could save me money would be well worth it.

Try getting in touch with
http://www.centraliowacameraclub.com/
These guys are what's left of Marshalltown IA camera club. Up until the digital tsunami they held a annual swap meet, quite a few dealers. I've had good luck buying from KEH. MAP camera in Japan. I would rather have a MINT Yashica with modern lens coatings than a old Rollie. If I was going to get one it would need to be beautiful, which I don't have in the budget. I've been down the Mamiya C330 road a couple times, too heavy for my taste. Damn fine camera.

 

[macfred]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Rolleimagic TLR as one to avoid.

I wouldn't buy one - though a Rolleimagic II (even with a toasted meter) should work. I know a flickr contact who uses one of those for several years.
I can remember a thread on old APUG where somebody called the Rolleimagic line the Ford Edsel of cameras ...

 

[absalom1951]

Some years ago I contacted a person in Ames though could've been Marshalltown for info about a camera club. When I mentioned I shot film they politely told me I was welcomed to attend meetings but at the present time there were no film shooters in their club. I said thank you and said I might be over. I never attended a meeting for I did not want to stand around looking ignorant while megabytes and nanobytes were being discussed. Digital is great, my kids use their phones camera all the time. I used a Mamiya C330 for awhile and it is a darn good camera . Must agree with you, it is a heavy camera. Too heavy for me.

Wish I had every Edsel my brother and I junked out when we were teenagers. People were giving them away. I doubt if they give them away nowadays.

 

[macfred]

Wish I had every Edsel my brother and I junked out when we were teenagers. People were giving them away. I doubt if they give them away nowadays.

Yep; saw some restored Edsel on vitage car meetings - love them !

 

[macfred]

I love my 3.5F Planar !
The best 700 euros I have ever invested ... (+ 140,- Euro for a CLA).

 

[jp498]

I'm a fan of the 1950's models like Automat k4, k4a, k4b.. The single coated tessar lens is a step up from an older uncoated one. They have plenty of aperture blades for the smooth out of focus look round apertures provide.

Later more expensive cameras and later rolleicords have unround apertures as they stopped down.

 

[David Reynolds]

I love my 3.5F Planar !
The best 700 euros I have ever invested ... (+ 140,- Euro for a CLA).

I agree the 3.5F Planar is the best handling Flex you can buy

 

[xya]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Rolleimagic TLR as one to avoid.

it has been mentioned above and yes, I agree. the shutter is a very special one. it is very sensible to low temperatures, and low is 15° c in this case. yes it would work with a dead meter, but no, the shutter isn't very reliable. it's not similar to the other rolleiflexes. the front is too heavy. I have had one http://www.oddcameras.com/rollei_magic_II.htm

 

[Grim Tuesday]

BY the way, I don't know if anyone has mentioned this in this thread yet but I strongly believe that a Rolleicord can be a fully excellent camera and are the most undervalued cameras on the market right now. For some reason the japanese copies of them are trading at a higher price. I've tried plenty of TLRs and I've posted this hierarchy of lenses before but I think it's worth posting again. Plus, I've changed my mind on the Mamiya 80...It's good, really good. And there are some other great lenses in the system. Of course, these are all from individual cameras so I may be lucky or unlucky with the samples I had:

Rolleiflex Planar = Mamiya Sekor 80mm for 220/330 > Rolleicord III (coated) Xenar > Autocord Rokkor >> Yashica D Yashinon > Rolleiflex Automat Uncoated Xenar > Yashica LM Yashikor

Mamiya is a stunningly good deal for what you get (that is, if I'm being honest, image quality that approaches-but-does-not-quite-reach my Hasselblad Planar), but the catch is it's big. Almost big enough to negate the small 'n light advantages of a TLR. You do still get the unique advantage of waist level finding, and a full image preview without any possibility of mirror bounce, and specific to this camera, there's a flat film path. Other lenses in the system are quite good.There are also some cool accessories for the system, like the chimney finder with two magnifiers in it so you can really nail down focus. All this said, it's a great competitor if you were looking for a system camera, but I don't know how it stacks up as a TLR. It's too big, and it is not subtle.

 

[Down Under]

\a

I am a huge fan of National Camera Exchange. I bought my Hasselblad and Pentax 67 bodies from them. They price things well, are very honest, and describe their cameras accurately. If it's in "AVG" condition from them, it is what other vendors would call "excellent minus." Anything above "AVG" rating means that it looks cosmetically nice, because AVG means everything's working and there are no optical defects. Also, they have actually qualified people do the rating, and it's for function not just cosmetics. Because they offer a 6 month warranty, if they think a camera is likely to fail in the next six months they won't sell it in any condition but as-is. They are also very happy to talk on the phone about the specifics of what they're selling, unlike Adorama or KEH which will give you vague statements like about "it may contain fungus" and refuse to answer specific questions.

All that said, OP, I don't understand why you would want to get an Automat, for all the reasons I said in my other post.

A 1950s Rolleiflex Automat is a fine camera, if the condition is good and if the price is right. They were built in an era when everything at the factory was done by hand and tested time and again throughout the production line. I know photographers who bought new MXVs and are still using them. A CLA every 10-20 years will keep them working just fine. The only problems I can see with Rolleis also applies to all other medium format gear in general, is that 120 film may someday go out of production or (most likely) become so expensive as to be unaffordable, as is already happening here in Australia.

Buying from a reputable camera shop with a good reputation for returns and servicing their sold equipment during the warranty period, is something I've long preached and firmly believe in. Prices are sometimes (but not always) a little higher than one can pick up gear online, but you get the added advantage of seeing and being able to handle the camera before you part with your money, which in this day and age of internet scams and unethical or stupid sellers, is a big plus-point.

In these difficult economic times, we need to do all we can to keep these good small shops open. Spending a little money with them now and then is the best way to ensure they will be around for a while yet. A win-win situation in every way!!

 

[Randy Stewart]

"I am thinking of maybe picking up a Rolleiflex. I have had the urge for a long time of getting one, but never have. Figure if I am going to , I'd best be doing it before its to late. My question is this - Are there any models to shy away from ? There are so many different models . I am not looking at spending thousands of dollars but just a user camera that works."

Yes. The early post-war model 28A. Rollei was hard up for lenses to move their post-war production out on the streets, so they dived into their warehouse for some left over pre-war Tessar 80mm 2,8 units. They were total dogs, and Rollei ended up replacing a lot of them over customer complaints. Most of those have been tossed out years ago, and the rest are covered with decades of dust in collections, but you never know what you might run into.

 

[guangong]

I don’t recommend what I consider the best of the lot, the 2.8F, simply because selling prices are off the wall. I was able to buy mine in a fluke. Willoughbys branch on 48 st. had a customer who would buy a high end camera every three or four weeks and then return to the store and trade in for a different camera (at a substantial loss).I stepped into the store right after he left. He had traded in a Rolleiflex 2.8F with case, filters, close up lens kits, shade, etc. Salesman, who was a friend, convinced the manager to roll complete outfit over to me immediately with very little markup. So I walked out of the store with an almost brand new Rolleiflex and accessories. This was in about 1970. Otherwise, a 2.8 F would have been way beyond my means.
IMHO, generally speaking Rolleiflexes are well built robust cameras and as noted by almost everybody on this thread, condition is the most important factor when considering to buy. My recommendation is to buy from a reputable dealer who stands behind their product and allows returns.
Good luck in your quest!

 

[Grace Galanti]

I am in the process of selling my father's camera collection that includes Rollis and others and need help on identifying the cameras and their value. The location is outside of Philadelphia in Boyertown, PA. Do you know anyone in the region who may be able to help? Thanks!

 

[ic-racer]

The "Made In Germany" models are more reliable in my experience (I keep the failed ones for spare parts)
This is the lists of the 13 cameras I still own:...

2021 Update. Got 3 new cameras (6008i, 6008AF and Hy6) and had one 6008i electronic failure (won't close the aperture).

List of working German cameras:
Hy6
6008AF
6008i
SL3003
SL2000F
Rolleicord V
Rolleiflex 2.8F (Honeywell era)

List of failed German cameras:
6008i
SL3003
SL2000F

List of working Singapore cameras:
SL35M
SL35E
35LED

List of failed Singapore cameras:
SL35M
SL35E

 

[Dan Daniel]

I am in the process of selling my father's camera collection that includes Rollis and others and need help on identifying the cameras and their value. The location is outside of Philadelphia in Boyertown, PA. Do you know anyone in the region who may be able to help? Thanks!

Grace, please start a thread of your own to ask this question. Being buried in an old, long thread that most people skip over, your question won't be seen by many here.

Two general issues- do you want to sell the collection in a block to one dealer? This is easier than trying to sell cameras one by one, of course. But you will also get less money.

The second issue- with the internet and the fact that you are dealing with a 'specialty' item, you will have a much wider market by not limiting yourself to local dealers or buyers. For example, I used to live near a store in California that handled estate sales of cameras from around the country. You might contact them and see what they recommend?

https://www.glasskeyphoto.com/#glass-key-photo

There are a variety of other dealers.

Be aware that film camera prices have jumped in the last year or so. And will probably stay high for some time. Go slow, do some research of your own (Ebay completed listings section is one crude price estimation).

 

[davela]

I haven't seen I don't like yet - even the pre-war models are good shooters. Condition is key, particularly that of the taking lens.

 

[JensH]

I haven't seen I don't like yet - even the pre-war models are good shooters. Condition is key, particularly that of the taking lens.

That's right.
The 6x6 cameras I use the most are pre 1932 Rolleiflex Originals. Love the 4.5 Tessar, no lack of contrast here if the lens is clean.
If not, the lens elements can be taken apart for cleaning easily.
Anyway it is not a camera for everyone - they are slow to operate, the finder is fragile, mirrors degenerate...

Best
Jens

 

[beemermark]

They're all great. The later models (E,F self loading models) are more complicated and are very expensive to service but well worth it. Early ones, usually with the Tessar lens, are usually not much more than a box with a shutter so service consists mostly of shutter repair which is relatively cheap.