Is there a best one to look for?
Any preference on the Minolta Autocords?
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Seikosha MX shutter model. Preferably without the meter because it usually doesn't work, and adds weight and bulk to a camera that can be very light and agile. 10 bladed aperture is a nice added feature for some of us.
The Seikosha shutter is a 'traditional' Compur style of shutter with a standard cocking rack. Other shutter have a variety of strange little shutter cocking mechanisms that put unusual stresses on both the shutter and the cocking leverage systems.
Ok, to be realistic, any other model will usually be fine. I wouldn't reject an Autocord with a working shutter just because it isn't the Seikosha. I would stay away from later ones with non-working shutters since repair of the shutter is often not possible.
Watch for separation in the rear lens group. And of course the focus lever.
The Seikosha shutter is a 'traditional' Compur style of shutter with a standard cocking rack. Other shutter have a variety of strange little shutter cocking mechanisms that put unusual stresses on both the shutter and the cocking leverage systems.
Ok, to be realistic, any other model will usually be fine. I wouldn't reject an Autocord with a working shutter just because it isn't the Seikosha. I would stay away from later ones with non-working shutters since repair of the shutter is often not possible.
Watch for separation in the rear lens group. And of course the focus lever.
The first Autocord showed up in 1953, and they added features just about every year. The last model was the CDS III, which has the most features. Here's a comparison, but Minolta made lots on NON Autocord TLRs, too:
http://www.subclub.org/minman/mintlr.htm
http://www.subclub.org/minman/mintlr.htm
I really like the Autocord cameras and agree with everything Dan says above. They are not super-easy to work on, but not impossible either. Most good repair people can work on them, but parts will probably have to be salvaged from none working cameras. The focusing levers have been known to be a problem for many years. I think you can buy newly made after-market ones on eBay. When I repaired my first one back in the early 90's you could still get Minolta replacement focus levers and other parts, but those I'm sure are either now hoarded or gone for good. I will say that they are not as robust as a later Rollei, but not bad. I actually like using the Autocord more than I do my late Rollei cameras. That's just me of course. I am working on a custom Autocord just for me. It is an Autocord body with a 75mm f3.5 Planar lens from a parts Rollei. Stay tuned!
I agree with @Dan Daniel that find one with Seikosha MX shutter and without a meter. They are aesthetically and mechanically perfect, especially if you get one that is already CLA'd.
Yes, those are the only Autocords I will buy now. Not, that the rest are bad, but the MX shutter version models seem to be easier to find without slight shutter issues.
!!!!! A dream of mine, also. Very interested in hearing how it goes.
Are you mounting the 2.8 viewing lens from the Rollei? I mounted a 75mm Tessar and Compur shutter from a folder on an Autocord. Had to compromise on the focus since the taking and viewing lens did not track together.
This is very good to know. I will take all this into account when buying. Thank you. Open to more feedback as I am currently looking to find the right one, albeit within reason price-wise.
If you are looking to find out if the Autocord is for you then don't hesitate to buy one with a Citizen or Optiper shutter as long as the shutter is working correctly, the lens is clean and clear and most of all the focus lever swings from right to left smoothly with just slight friction. Oh, and it's hard to find these cameras where the leatherette isn't peeled or chipped off. So, be aware of that also. You can buy a brand new precut covering in many different colors for the Autocord and they are very easy to install.
Mine has the Citizen MVL shutter and has been super reliable (saying that will have put a curse on it) and is always a delight to use. Buy one that needs nothing doing to it and avoid very, very stiff focusing levers (dried grease) although some smooth resistance is important like it would be on a regular lens ring. I put an Oleson split image screen in mine and think it was very worthwhile improvement in brightness.
Yes, the screens aren't the best, but they really are 100% useable the way they are. I did prescreen my user also, but really would not have had to. Unlike some of the Rolleicords. At least up to the Rolleicord III anyway. My Rolleicord III is like looking through tunnel vision. Only the very center is bright enough to focus with and just barely at that.
Your comments are very helpful. May I ask, what constitutes separation in the rear lens group and what do you look for to see if this is the case or not? Thanks!
Your comments are very helpful. May I ask, what constitutes separation in the rear lens group and what do you look for to see if this is the case or not? Thanks!
This is what I have, with the Selenium cell meter (which does work and is pretty accurate).
I don't know what your price goal is, but IMO any Autocord selling for less than $300 is "high risk" unless you are very lucky. Always look to see if the focus knob is broken off or not (they often are).
Expect to have to have the camera serviced - it's almost certainly going to need it to work properly. If the focus is the least bit stiff, you risk breaking off that focus knob.
Look for a newer one with 500th of a second shutter speed rather than the 300th of a second on an older model.
It gives you a little more flexibility when using faster films.
It gives you a little more flexibility when using faster films.
Good advice. Thank you.
You'll see rings in the glass. Or partial rings on the edge, maybe coming in 1/4 or so. Here's one example-
Lens separation - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia
Not all listings will show inside the back, and many that do won't have the lighting to make it obvious. Get something with returns allowed and check on arrival.
I have a LMX, and the selenium meter works still pretty good in daylight (never tested it in challenging light). I love the exposure value system on this, it can be used or ignored. Unfortunately I broke my focusing level after I had a CLA done...
Was my first medium format camera, these days I use a few more modern ones (Pentax 645n and Mamiya 6), but still like the Autocord!
Was my first medium format camera, these days I use a few more modern ones (Pentax 645n and Mamiya 6), but still like the Autocord!
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