Overexposure helps with the aura effect, regardless of precisely which filter you choose, but yes, you should see more aura effect with a T50 of 710nm or longer. I have however seen it with overexposed film with a filter with a T50 of only 695nm.
710-715 nm is visually opaque at first sight but if you hold it over your eye, excluding all other light, you will see a very dim image after a few seconds.
If that film is the same or similar to Rollei 400 IR, then I can report that I haven't really seen it even with an opaque filter (#87) and substantial overexposure.
Here are some examples of captures that were definitely on the high side of exposure, and I see basically no 'aura' or halation: 1 and 2. The edges are extremely crisp and sharp except for some motion blur. No 'glow' at all.
Maybe I am wrong, but the 'aura' effect is simply halation, no? If that's the case then perhaps I could see it better with 220 film, these were on 120. Anyway it's still not clear to me what people mean by 'aura,' unless it is simply halation. Of course if you want halation then that can be arranged
I don't know what T50 means but if I had to guess it would be "threshold 50" on those charts I've seen where using a particular filter will have numbers associated with various wavelengths. So, you're saying that at 695, if the number is great (or less?) than 50, I should be able to get a halo effect?
Hang on a second!
The "wood effect" where vegetation shows up as white is wavelength-dependent, and with this film you need to filter out as much as possible of the visible light. A 695 filter does this nicely, but a 720 would be better.
The "aura" effect is halation, and will show up on any film without some kind of anti-halation layer, at ANY wavelength! BUT: 120 film uses the backing paper as an important part of the halation control, so that will show less of it. Sheet films are big, so a 1/2mm of halo won't be easy to spot. 35mm film is best for the halo, as a 1/2mm is over 1/50 of the image height.
Dear Ole,The "aura" effect is halation, and will show up on any film without some kind of anti-halation layer, at ANY wavelength!
If I wanted halation / aura and didn't have access to films without the AH layer then I guess I would first see if I can wash off the halation layer, and then I'd also consider installing something very IR-reflective over the pressure plate in the camera. I think most pressure plates are designed not to reflect at all, but that is actually what you want for an aura effect, no? The reflection off that plate is what creates a localized aura, as opposed to wholesale fogging.
You could try the usual "stupid mistake", and load the film along with the interleaf paper...
Just make sure the paper is behind the film!
I can't remember if the paper in these is black or white, but I do remember there are some films with white paper between the sheets.
I was thinking of popping out a pressure plate and putting it in my gold sputtering system
If you send me your plate I'll coat it for [inserts pinky-finger into mouth] twenty dollars! No! Thirty dollars! Muahaha, I'm rich, rich!
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