Any advice on developing a Ensign Ultrachrome E29 film

I've bought a Ensign E29 box camera, and it came with a Free film. Heaven knows how old it is, but its an Ensign Ultrachrome film 129 size.

Now I've had a look round the web, and on Mike Butkus's excellent camera manual site I found reference to the film, which I'm presuming is a Orthochromic Black and white relic and probably over 60 years old.

I've found references to developing this stuff "In the strip" for which I read "By inspection" under safelight using Ensign-Victol developer for around 8 minutes then fixing in standard hypo solution made up with 2oz Hypo in 10oz water

Any suggestions gratefully recieved. I'm going to have to develop this without using a processing tank, as none of my reels will accomodate this size of film

Now I saw them listed the other day. By the strip means see-saw the strip of film through a dev tray, it's quite easy and was common place many years ago. I had to do that with my first 120 film and they were fine.

Here we are: Ensign Ultrachrome - 32 BS Arithmetic, (FP4 was 80) so about 50 ASA, it was Orthochromatic, and available as roll film, there's no references for dev times. It was still around in 1954.

Try using ID-11/D76 most films need about 8.5 minutes, give it 10 or 11 to allow for possible contrast loss.

Ian

Thanks,

I'll have to break out the safelight and stock up on some ID11 at the weekend. All I have in the house is Ilfosol 3, as that was what the local stockist had on the shelf last time, and I didn't fancy a long trek to a bigger store.

Another quick question. The method I saw recommended a water presoak for a minute before using the developer. Do you think thats still appropriate, or should I just go straight to the Dev Bath like I would for a modern film?

You could probably use Ilfosol 3. Just give 25%-30% extra dev time compared to FP4.

When I used the see-saw method I didn't use a pre-soak but it wouldn't hurt to add one. If you decide to develop by inspection ten I'd suggest using the safelight only towards the end of the processing, the film is less light sensitive by then so your less likely to have a problem. It does need to be a deep red safelight, not the brighter orange version.

Ian