Am I frying my film?

[synj00]

I use Kodak Rapid fix and have the solution A and solution B concentrate. I mix according to the instructions for 1 gallon.

"To prepare a fixing bath for films and plates"

start with 1/2 gal water
mix 32 fl oz of solution A
mix 3 1/2 fl oz of solution B
add water to make 1 gal

I use this as my working solution and pour from the gallon strait into the tank for my film fixer. I recently had someone tell me that I should be using a diluted version of this like 1:4 for film and that the strength of my fixer is too much. I see no problem using it the way that I have been but just want to be sure Im not going to have problems down the road. Any opinions? :confused:

 

[djhopscotch]

You mixed it to use with film, so you can use it undiluted from your gallon mix. Ilford rapid fix you mix 1:4 with film, that might be what they were talking about. If you use the kodak rapid fix for paper you would need to cut your solution 1:1 with water.

 

[synj00]

Thanks djhopscotch! Its what I thought, just wanted to verify with some other knowledgeable folks too

 

[dancqu]

Any opinions? :confused:

No specific dilution is needed as long as there
is enough of the chemistry to thoroughly fix the
film. When I was using a Rapid Fix the dilution
ran 1:24: a 120 roll, 500ml solution volume.
Fresh fix each roll. Dan

 

[fschifano]

Yes, that's certainly true. While I don't go to those extremes, I do use my fixer at half strength for paper and film. The capacity of the 1/2 strength working solution is, as you'd expect, diminished, and it is a bit slower working. But the working solution doesn't build up as high a concentration of silver thiosulfate complexes either. That's an especially good practice when using fiber based papers, and it does no harm when used with RC papers and film.

 

[David Brown]

I mix according to the instructions ...

I recently had someone tell me ...

I usually go with the instructions over opinions.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

No trans fat Crisco is my favorite product for frying......

 

[dancqu]

Yes, that's certainly true. While I don't go to those extremes,
I do use my fixer at half strength for paper and film.

But the working solution doesn't build up as high a concentration
of silver thiosulfate complexes either. That's an especially good
practice when using fiber based papers, and it does no harm
when used with RC papers and film.

Extreme, 1:24? I was regularly using rapid fix at 1:32, 500ml
fixer volume. The 1:24 came about because of suspected
fix concentrate deterioration.

Highly dilute one-shot fixer usage Guarantees silver levels
well within 'archival'. Fresh each or a few rolls or each or
a few prints; simultaneous processing. Dan

 

[gainer]

Sometimes when I'm travelling and sometimes when I'm not, I dump an ounce of TF4 concentrate into a 16 ounce developing tank with the developer after developing time has passed. Three minutes with vigorous agitation for most films, longer for the Tmax type, is long enough. Then I throw it all out. If necessary, I pour a little developer out to make room for the fix. The fix pretty well stops the developing. I can carry enough chemicals in two 8 oz. bottles of concentrates to do 8 rolls of negatives. No problems yet.

 

[Stuggi]

Extreme, 1:24? I was regularly using rapid fix at 1:32, 500ml
fixer volume. The 1:24 came about because of suspected
fix concentrate deterioration.

Highly dilute one-shot fixer usage Guarantees silver levels
well within 'archival'. Fresh each or a few rolls or each or
a few prints; simultaneous processing. Dan

Are you talking Ilford Rapid Fix? That trick would save me a lot of money... ^^

 

[dancqu]

Are you talking Ilford Rapid Fix? That trick
would save me a lot of money... ^^

I used PF's 60% ammonium thiosulfate concentrate
with nothing added. A liter bottle was split to 1/4 liters
then a 1/4 liter to 1/16 liters. One of those was then split
to 1/64s and later, after some aging, to 1/48s liter.
I shoot only a few rolls a year so do more splits
than some would do.

Any off the shelf rapid concentrate should run 60%
give or take some little. Test a roll with 20ml. Constant
agitation the first minute and each minute there after a
few inversions. Allow 5 or 6 minutes then check for clear.
You'll fine tune the time after a few rolls.

Be sure the film is clear + prior to dumping the fix. There is
no checking the fixer for twice clearing time. Although the
fixer is very little loaded with silver on a volumetric basis
it should be NEARLY exhausted. Tests used unexposed
rolls. Unexposed places the entire silver load in the
fixer. So some excess fixer. I've not tested with
iodized films.

Low volume or high, fresh fix, no testing needed, no
rebottling. Dan