Am I being too cheap?

[photomem]

I have expanded beyond just having D-76 as my developer. I decided to try Microdol-X last night (I know it has just been discontinued). I would not let myself use it though until I found data on diluting it. I found some info that would let me develop for 22 minutes with a 1:3 ratio on Ilford Delta 400. Also, the results were quite good.

Here is the question though, I am heavily diluting my developers (I will stand at the sink longer if it saves me money), I have indicator stop bath where I can tell when it is exhausted, I save my fix and test it with hypo check, and I found some photoflo 600. The only thing which is mixed to directions then discarded is my HCA, though I am considering going to a 10 minute rinse cycle and not buying more when my current supply runs out.

Am I being too cheap at a possible detriment to my negatives?

 

[Fireguy2002]

Do you like your negatives?

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Microdol-X is a solvent developer at full strength or 1+1, so if you like the grain softening effect, then use it that way. If you want more acutance at the expense of more prominent grain, then use it at 1+3 (the solvent effect depends on the total concentration of sodium sulfite in solution). D-76 works in a similar way, as far as the solvent effect is concerned.

Why not see for yourself by developing some clips? Shoot a whole roll of the same scene, and develop three clips to the same contrast in Microdol-X stock, 1+1, and 1+3. Contact print them together. If the contrast doesn't match, then adjust development time for the one that is different and develop another clip. If you've got extra undeveloped clips left, see if you can do the same with D-76. Make prints of all the clips and print details from all the clips. Compare and save in a reference file. You'll know more at the end of this exercise than you can learn from an internet forum.

 

[Vaughn]

Panotomic-X in Microdol-X 1:3 was my standard combo for years with 120 film. Whenever you dilute a developer, one just needs enough of the developer to fully develop the film (not exceed its capacity). Other than that, David has it covered.

 

[panchro-press]

Cheap? By diluting a developer you're changing it's characteristics as Mr. Goldfarb points out. It has little to do with economy; but it does pose a more important question. Why would you play brinksmanship with your film developer or fixer, for that matter? I should think the last place you'd want to cut corners is producing the finest negative possible. What's the point, after all?

-30-

 

[Ronald Moravec]

By diluting it, you lose the grain softening. It works fine but it is not Microdol. I used it for years 1:3

 

[Fireguy2002]

Cheap? ... What's the point, after all?

-30-

Uuuhhh, to save 3 times the money on developer. Sorry, I couldn't help myself there.

 

[Karl K]

Microdol-X cost

I'm selling one gallon packs @$9.00.

Microdol-X as a one-shot at 1:3 will cost you about 14 cents to process a roll of 35mm film.

I'm not trying to sell you any, but can you have more fun anywhere else for 14 cents?

 

[Lowell Huff]

IF YOU WANT TO SAVE MONEY, buy a more highly concentrated developer and fixer.

 

[Fireguy2002]

I have volunteered for the Yukon Quest. That was free. Pretty fun sticking thermometers up dogs hind ends.

 

[Denis K]

Cheap you say? Unless you’re using a developer in a replenishment scheme you are acting in a most profligate manner. We are all shocked that you would even think about or entertain the notion of using a one-shot developer. What's next - a disposable razor?

If you haven't looked into switching to a two bath fix process do it now, before you throw more money down the drain. At least you’re reusing your stop bath.

BTW, if you work out a replenishment scheme you should be able to use Microdol-X full strength without any loss of cost efficiency.


Denis K

 

[JBrunner]

This is pennies that could cost dollars or even wreck something priceless. Cut out a soda a day or something.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Stick to what you know - save money by wasting less film/developer/fixer.
You also save on the tail end when you print; if you continue to use D76 you know what to expect. With a new developer, the whole work flow has to be tuned in again.

What did you gain from using Microdol-X?

If you are worried about cost of developer only, Microdol-X doesn't seem like the obvious solution. How about Rodinal, HC-110, D23, etc?

 

[nsurit]

Lets start with my definition of "Time". Time - essential, non-refundable segments of one's life. If you can sign on to that definition, yes, you are being too cheap if you are trading part of your life to save a few pennies. Oh, if you are asking the question, you probably are being too cheap. Bill Barber

 

[BetterSense]

I don't even see what you are doing that is cheap. I use replenished D23 (pennies/roll), no stop other than water, and no hypo clear. I also use my fixer until it stops working.

 

[jgjbowen]

Heck, I've started shooting sheet films and found I can cut the cost of film in 1/2 if I expose both sides of the film. The negatives suck, but I've greatly reduced my film cost!

 

[ic-racer]

Skimping on fixer can come back and get you in 20 years. (Ask me how I know....) while in school I re-used fixer and now have some negatives that have deteriorated from improper fixation.

 

[Jeff Kubach]

Don't get too cheap, it might hurt on quality.

Jeff

 

[BetterSense]

Skimping on fixer can come back and get you in 20 years. (Ask me how I know....) while in school I re-used fixer and now have some negatives that have deteriorated from improper fixation.

So you don't re-use fixer at all?

 

[MattKing]

Optimizing your procedures for economy rarely makes much sense if your volumes are low. For a lot of chemistry, if your usage is low, you will lose more due to spoilage than you will save.

In my case, I also have to consider issues of limited space available for storage of mixed chemistry.

As usage increases, spoilage decreases, and consideration of economy makes more sense.

For example, I'd rather pay more for several small contaners of chemistry, than to buy one larger container, have to worry about storage through it's life, and have a significant percentage of it be unusable.

Shoot and develop and print more film, and you will save money .

Matt

 

[photomem]

I already purchase the smallest amount of chemistry possible. That is to prevent having to introduce expired chemistry into the waste stream. Now that I have acquired a 35 mm for my girlfriend, I expect my chemistry use to increase. That way I am cycling through more and wasting less.

 

[jnovek]

1) Changing your developer dilution will change characteristics of the film, such as grain behavior, contrast and acutance.

2) Do you like the way your film came out? Then keep doing what you're doing.

Jason

 

[photomem]

I am not sure if I like the way Delta 400 works in Microdol. I am going to shoot some rolls of Fuji Acros 100 this weekend, so we shall see how it looks.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

I play golf, Tommy. I learned on right handed clubs that were my grandfather's and was taught by a right handed player, my grandfather. A few years after starting I acquired a cheap used left handed three wood and decided to give it a try. Having the muscle memory from swinging right handed I was able to construct a left handed swing that did pretty decent, being left handed as I am. It occurred to me that I could start all over from scratch and play left handed and be better than I ever could from the other side of the ball. But then it occurred to my, why waste five years getting to this point playing golf left handed when I could keep on doing what I was doing and get so much better at it without changing.

Granted, I would probably have been better in the end lefty than righty. But I have a lot more fun and production by not switching.

Stick with what you've got and get to it.

 

[David William White]

As others have said, acidic stop bath (and indicator stop bath -- what are you, made of money?) does not need to be expended on film, as development is very slow and pretty much terminates upon dumping the developer. A simple rinse will leave your fixer uncontaminated, for all intents and purposes. Stop bath is quite useful with lithographic films and lithographic developers that proceed at quite a clip and need to be quenched, or with paper in aggressive developers.

Same goes for HCA. Makes economic sense for thick, absorbent fiber paper, but of marginal utility with silver metal on a plastic base.

The only real, looming dangers you need to consider are underdevelopment and underfixing (which you can repeat if necessary).