Alternative to running tap water rinse??

Weird question but...

I going to develop some film at location where the tap water situation is inconsistent. There is limited hot water and the water temperature can't be held constant. For that reason I bought some wash aid to get rid of remaining fixer. I also bought 4 large jugs of distilled water. So I was thinking whether it would be possible to use the distilled water to do the final rinse instead of the running tap water? If so, what would be the procedure for this kind of method? Thanks

Afaik, most people don’t use running water anymore. try this:
https://whyfilmphotography.wordpress.com/2019/01/29/the-ilford-wash-method/
regards,
Frank

Frank53 said:

Afaik, most people don’t use running water anymore. try this:
https://whyfilmphotography.wordpress.com/2019/01/29/the-ilford-wash-method/
regards,
Frank

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This.

I have processed film (dilute developer, reused stop and fixer, wash after fixing) with as little as one gallon of water for two 120 rolls (loaded onto a single reel in a Paterson type tank). I know the quantity with some precision, because I was pouring from a jug of "drinking water" purchased at the local supermarket.

In the unlikely event the link above rots, the "Ilford wash" for film is pretty simple and quick: after pouring out the fixer (and shaking a tank a couple times to minimize carry over), fill the tank with tap or filtered water, and invert five times; pour out (down the drain is fine, most places). Fill the tank, and invert ten times; pour out. Fill the tank a third time, and invert twenty times. Pour out. Refill the tank for wetting agent if you use it (you should; used correctly it eliminates the need to squeegee the film, hence reducing risk of scratches).

Ilford has also espoused a similar water-saving regimen for prints, as long as they're on RC paper: fix in rapid fixer only, for no longer than (thirty seconds? one minute?), then wash for just five minutes with water changes every minute. This will use five trays full of water; for 8x10 that's less than a gallon (per print or small group of prints).

hi cluster.
if you use a fixer remover type product ( like sprint's fixer remover or perma wash ) you only wash your film ( or prints ) for a few mins become "archival". and if needed you can do a "non archival" wash .., and when you get to your normal location, just rewash your film. ezpz

have fun !
John

Sounds like a waste of distilled water to me. Why not just fill several large empty jugs/pitchers with the tap water (perhaps filtered through a standard charcoal filter if you're worried about impurities) and let it come to room temp first? You could use the Ilford method or just rig up a system to flow slowly from the tap water container into the tank. To my understanding it doesn't have to be running water strength, just has to be sufficient to replace the volume in the tank every few minutes (so for a 1L tank that's, what, 8L or 2 gallons of water for a 25-30min wash). This is what I do, then just use distilled for a final soak of 3-5 minutes with a drop of surfactant.

ProfessorC1983 said:

Why not just fill several large empty jugs/pitchers with the tap water

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Whether you can get away with this, or how much purification you need to get from tap water to film safe, is strongly dependent on how pure your tap water is or isn't. If your water is very hard (dissolved calcium) or, like mine was where I lived from 1970-1979 has a lot of dissolved iron, you need at the least well filtered or deionized water to avoid deposits on your film after the wash water dries.

PE wrote about Kodak tests that showed the importance of diffusion in fixer removal. When putting a print, or negative, in the water and allowing it to lie still, the fixer moves from the negative into the water so that the same level of fixer exists in both. I’m not a chemist, so forgive my layman’s language. I’ve adapted this to the Ilford method - three baths, agitate initially then allow the negative to lie still for five minutes, empty, repeat.

There was a member here years ago who wrote about Agfa fixers and the use of sodium carbonate in dilute one shot fixers that were easy to was out. He was dan something, but I can’t find his posts.

Update - it was dancqu if you want to search his posts.

Here’s a thread in which the importance of diffusion is discussed.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/washing-film-best-environmentally-friendly-way-to-do-it.43248/

Have you considered using a fixer like TF-4 or TF-5? Easier to wash out and you don't need a fixer remover. For the water, I would invent 35 cents per gallon and fill the jugs with RO water, then use the Ilford wash method. Heck, I use the "Ilford method" at home.

It looks fine to me. I too have only ever used the Ilford method. Will this one day "bite me in the bum" as we say in the U.K? Well I cannot guarantee it but the Ilford method was published by Ilford many years ago before I started processing and my early negs are now 15 years old with no deterioration I can see

Is there a known period that beyond which if there is no deterioration then there will be no deterioration in the future? Frankly I don't know but if this is the case then it would be helpful if a source for this could be given to us and to Ilford as well

pentaxuser