I am not a user of XTol. ... and combine that with the fact that it tends to die a quick and painful death....
The point is other developers are more tolerant of careless keeping and storage. It's hardly "baseless" or "hooey." There are enough reports here and elsewhere of the developer working just fine one day and not at all the next. I can also speak from personal experience.
Anecdotal 'evidence' from a small, self-selected group does not have statistical weight.
p(XTOL fails) = (#fails)/(#fails + # successes)
do you know the bottom number? how many units of XTOL did Kodak ship? Over what period of time?
Asserting 'facts' without that kind of knowledge is *hooey*.
I don't know the bottom number. No one does. Even if we did it would be meaningless. There are too many variables involved (mixing, storing, handling, etc.). It doesn't fail like a raffle drawing. I'm suggesting it fails for a very real and explainable reason.Anecdotal 'evidence' from a small, self-selected group does not have statistical weight.
p(XTOL fails) = (#fails)/(#fails + # successes)
do you know the bottom number? how many units of XTOL did Kodak ship? Over what period of time?
Asserting 'facts' without that kind of knowledge is *hooey*.
Recycled wine bags. If you are using a spout it should be darn good then.Do they sell those for chemicals or are they literally just repurposed wine bags?
With the tank I get the chemicals from a spout, so no new air introduced, but the floating lid isn't a perfect seal and there's 3.5 gallons worth of air floating above my 1.5 gallons of ecopro in that 5 gallon tank (the tank has a lid in addition to the floating one).
I don't know the bottom number. No one does. Even if we did it would be meaningless. There are too many variables involved (mixing, storing, handling, etc.). It doesn't fail like a raffle drawing. I'm suggesting it fails for a very real and explainable reason.
And I for one put a lot of weight on "anecdotal evidence," especially in cases like this where no such statistics can be known. I read product reviews before I make a purchase. I call references before I hire someone. I check APUG before I try a new film or developer. If people are reporting that their XTOL failed on them quite suddenly, are they wrong?
The internet is awesome, plenty of places to find good information, and this is one of them.
Are those who've had issues with XTOL wrong? No. But how many people had no issues and
never said anything about it?
It rocks for me too. I was burned by it once, figured out why, fixed the problem, and moved on. It fails quickly when stored poorly. Other developers I've used were more forgiving. This is my experience, and it's not an isolated one. A newcomer to XTOL reading this doesn't need statistics; they just need to know to store it smartly.XTOL rocks, there I said it. Yes, I keep it in airtight bottles with very little air in them.
Oxidation happens. Works for me, and I'm not alone, there are others out there too...
we're quiet and we're busy.
It can fail for several reasons, including oxidation and metallic contaminants in water. However, all are preventable:...it fails for a very real and explainable reason...
You're not. I occasionally abstain, but usually can't stand to see the product trashed and eventually jump in....Am I going to go into every "Let's hate on XTOL" thread [they come up pretty regularly] and provide a contrary opinion? No, I got tired of it, and I'll bet I'm not the only one...
By not using a chelating agent you may experience the problem. I say 'may' because the problem is complex depending in part on water and chemical purity.
No.
EDIT:
It is cheap and easy to use. Mix it up using good water and clean bottles/bags. Store it properly and use it for up to six months. After six months, either discard it, or do clip tests before use.
The tests were done scientifically, not with the alternative facts used by marketing and certain politicians.
Sirius Glass, are you telling me that all businesses are NOT liars and thieves? Why I do declare!......Regards!
Despite the suggestion elsewhere in this thread that charts like this are merely marketing tools, I am (perhaps naively) hoping that the promise of less grain proves correct. I have XTOL for Foma products and am about to mix up a batch to use for Fomapan 400 (35mm) with the hope of taming the grain a bit. Anyone ever try that combo?
Truthfully, it's what turned me on to XTOL also.The chart is guidance, a starting point. It was never intended to answer all questions for all situations and for all people. It guided me to start with stock XTOL and later I migrated to replenished XTOL which is even better.
Truthfully, it's what turned me on to XTOL also.
As big a fan as I am for Pyrocat - my developer of choice for 4x5, XTOL and variants are very good for roll film - where a little extra speed and sharpness with soft grain is a bonus. I make both brews as the two developers I use for film. - Pyrocat - PC-Glycol is what I have used for 4x5 and larger exclusively for two decades now and have found none better for sheet film where sharpness is the main goal. MyTOL - a vitamin C version made in a stock solution with TEA is a really excellent homebrew for 120 and 35mm films. Both the Pyro and MyTOL have a shelf life of 6 years - so I generally make several liters of stock at a time.Xtol is indeed an excellent developer...but it doesn't compare to Pyrocat-HD.
The only film developers I would consider not using as one shot would be D-76 full strength (better to use it 1:1 and chuck it) Microdol - maybe a few weeks and Split D-23 which can last a long time. The problem is that METOL and Phenidone both oxidize rapidly and as soon as they are dissolved in water, the clock starts ticking. Purging the air out of a glass bottle might help a little but water is Oxygen so - . MyTOL is easy to make and cheap too. The version I make uses mostly Vitamin C crystals from the local grocery store, Triethanolomine - easy to get online and a few other common photo chems. One shot developers are really the way to go. - In fact, when you buy chems in bulk and make your own, you can make everything one shot and then developer failures are very rare.I had the developer go bad on me also. This was about a month after purchasing and mixing it. I had a small sample in a soda pop bottle with most of the air squeezed out. This had been good enough for other developers (D76, Perceptol), but not for XTOL. I clip tested and the clip darkened. I remember questioning if the clip was dark enough. It wasn't. It's the only reason I got anything at all on the film -- a VERY thin negative that I was only able to recover digitally. I almost swore it off at that point, but decided I liked the results and versatility too much to do that. I've since invested in a quantity of glass bottles with polyseal caps from Specialty Bottle.
Lessons? Always do a clip test, and look for the clip to go black, not merely just darken. Keep a reference clip for comparison. Also, I would suggest that glass bottles with good caps filled to capacity are the only way to store XTOL.
To clarify, I use it one shot, 1+1. This was virgin stock developer that failed. I still blame it on storing it somewhat carelessly. It was in a small drink bottle, about two-thirds full, squeezed and sealed to minimize the airspace.The only film developers I would consider not using as one shot would be D-76 full strength (better to use it 1:1 and chuck it) Microdol - maybe a few weeks and Split D-23 which can last a long time. The problem is that METOL and Phenidone both oxidize rapidly and as soon as they are dissolved in water, the clock starts ticking. Purging the air out of a glass bottle might help a little but water is Oxygen so - . MyTOL is easy to make and cheap too. The version I make uses mostly Vitamin C crystals from the local grocery store, Triethanolomine - easy to get online and a few other common photo chems. One shot developers are really the way to go. - In fact, when you buy chems in bulk and make your own, you can make everything one shot and then developer failures are very rare.
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