In another thread, someone mentioned that they had a difficult time aligning the lens stage of their Omega D2 enlarger. I posted a suggestion and emailed the person who was having that problem. He replied saying that he used shims to align his lens stage and then glued it in place permanently. The problem with that method is that it makes, in effect, a lens stage that can't be re-aligned. As anyone knows, alignment goes off on enlargers. Even just raising the head can cause minor mis-alignment.
I have an old Omega D2 and a Beseler 45V-XL. I prefer the D2 and do at least 95% of my printing on it for two reasons: 1) It is much easier to align and... 2) It is easier to make an above-the-negative filter drawer for it. (I don't like using contrast filters in the optical path.)
There are easy things that you can do to an Omega enlarger to make it super-fast and easy to align. Maybe someone else will find these simple modifations useful. I would not recommend that you do anything make it so your enlarger can't be aligned. Instead, if possible, do things that make it easier to align because it's going to need re-alignment at some point.
The first thing is to simply place a donut of rubber (I used mouse-pad material) between the lens plate and the cone. You then drill two more holes for attaching the plate to the cone, tap the cone holes, and use thumb screws for adjustment. (You could use a 3-hole setup but you would have to drill and tap two holes anyway because the factory holes are 180% apart and a 3-hole setup should have the holes 120% apart. Also, I have found 4-holes to be better because you can align the two planes separately more easily.) The modification took no more than 20 minutes to do.
The other modification is to simply replace the film plane screws with thumb screws.
I use a Versalab laser alignment tool and it's one of those things that, once I got it, I wondered how I did without it for so many years. It takes five minutes at the most to align my D2 and the laser is much more sensitive and accurate than bubble levels. In fact, I check and adjust the alignment before I make all final prints. I generally make very large prints for display in hospitals, offices, etc. My printing sessions are long - about 10-12 hours - and I generally make two or three finished prints in that time (not including proofs, tests, and multiple prints, of course.) I probably spend between 5 and 10 minutes total checking and tweaking alignment of my wall-mounted D2 and it's time well spent.
One attached picture shows the lens/cone modification. Another shows the negative stage thumbscrews. Also note the filter drawer.
I hope this info may be useful for others.
I have an old Omega D2 and a Beseler 45V-XL. I prefer the D2 and do at least 95% of my printing on it for two reasons: 1) It is much easier to align and... 2) It is easier to make an above-the-negative filter drawer for it. (I don't like using contrast filters in the optical path.)
There are easy things that you can do to an Omega enlarger to make it super-fast and easy to align. Maybe someone else will find these simple modifations useful. I would not recommend that you do anything make it so your enlarger can't be aligned. Instead, if possible, do things that make it easier to align because it's going to need re-alignment at some point.
The first thing is to simply place a donut of rubber (I used mouse-pad material) between the lens plate and the cone. You then drill two more holes for attaching the plate to the cone, tap the cone holes, and use thumb screws for adjustment. (You could use a 3-hole setup but you would have to drill and tap two holes anyway because the factory holes are 180% apart and a 3-hole setup should have the holes 120% apart. Also, I have found 4-holes to be better because you can align the two planes separately more easily.) The modification took no more than 20 minutes to do.
The other modification is to simply replace the film plane screws with thumb screws.
I use a Versalab laser alignment tool and it's one of those things that, once I got it, I wondered how I did without it for so many years. It takes five minutes at the most to align my D2 and the laser is much more sensitive and accurate than bubble levels. In fact, I check and adjust the alignment before I make all final prints. I generally make very large prints for display in hospitals, offices, etc. My printing sessions are long - about 10-12 hours - and I generally make two or three finished prints in that time (not including proofs, tests, and multiple prints, of course.) I probably spend between 5 and 10 minutes total checking and tweaking alignment of my wall-mounted D2 and it's time well spent.
One attached picture shows the lens/cone modification. Another shows the negative stage thumbscrews. Also note the filter drawer.
I hope this info may be useful for others.
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