Aligning Durst Laborator 1200?

Jeff Bannow · Nov 16, 2010

Does anyone have instructions on how to adjust a Durst Laborator 1200 enlarger? I've got a Versalab Parallel, but need to know what on the enlarger to adjust for what axis and such.

Thanks!

frotog · Nov 16, 2010

Although I do not own this enlarger I'm fairly confident that the lens stage and negative stage cannot be adjusted. Alignment is limited to shimming the print stage with these enlargers. Jensen at durst-pro makes something he calls the Prola but I'm pretty sure that this device is solely for later model 138's and all 184's. Great device but government prices. It's essentially the same three point adjustment lens board that zone vi pioneered back in the eighties and that has since been offered by beseler and calumet. Check it out for ideas on how to rig your own version of it.

Jeff Bannow · Nov 16, 2010

That's depressing. Such a glorious enlarger, so much precision, and it can't be aligned? Seems like a massive oversight!

resummerfield · Nov 16, 2010

For what it's worth, I've had an L1200 for over 7 years, and it's alignment remains perfect.

frotog · Nov 16, 2010

Have you checked the lens stage against the negative stage? Chances are they're close enough to make prints up to 20x24 at f11. Unless it was dropped, that glorious projector of yours is going to be darn close to being zeroed out. Maybe you plan on printing wide open or making huge prints. Otherwise I think you'll find it difficult to see the effects of whatever small divergence your alignment tool picks up.

Richard Wasserman · Nov 16, 2010

I bought a very well used L1200 a few years ago from a lab that went under. I put it in the back of my car, drove home, carried it downstairs to my basement darkroom, plunked it on the counter, and checked the alignment with a Versalab Parallel–it was close to perfect. I needed to shim the lensboards with 3 thicknesses of masking tape. I periodically re-check it and it never needs adjusting. What a great enlarger...

Jeff Bannow · Nov 17, 2010

I compared the negative stage to the baseboard, and it is definitely out of alignment there. I will check the neg stage to the lens stage - maybe those 2 are good. Hopefully all will be good there.

ishutteratthethought · Nov 17, 2010

Jeff, I too have the L1200 and have never had to adjust, it is the most impressive enlarger I have ever used. Absolutly no worries of focus issues by being out of parallel.

There is a chance there could be some damage to the rail as far as being bent. Just my 2cents.

Steve

Richard Wasserman · Nov 17, 2010

Jeff Bannow said:
I compared the negative stage to the baseboard, and it is definitely out of alignment there. I will check the neg stage to the lens stage - maybe those 2 are good. Hopefully all will be good there.

The entire head swings left and right (as you face the enlarger). Might it just not be parallel to the easel?

Jeff Bannow · Nov 17, 2010

The column looked okay. I'll have to check the head positioning again.

Richard Wasserman · Nov 17, 2010

It might seem silly and obvious, but are all the bolts, screws, and knobs tight?

GeorgesGiralt · Nov 17, 2010

Hi !
I own an old Laborator 1000 (ancestor of the 1200, last production run in 1973...).
The alignment is perfect. But for this you must ensure that the plastic wheels used to roll the head on the column are not worn (or the play removed). Otherwise the head will bent to you making the negative and lens stages not parallel to the board.
IMHO, the 1200 use the same type of guidance system and you'll be better checking before anything else.

ic-racer · Nov 17, 2010

For 'column-to-baseboard' precision alignment, I made these 'false baseboards' that fit on top of the main baseboard.

The 4 corners have these threaded inserts:
http://www.ttnet.net/ttnet/gotoprd/HD110/035/0/94051303033333536313.htm
Then grub screws go in there and are adjusted from the top with an Allen Wrench to align the baseboard to the negative.
http://grubscrews.tradeindia.com/Exporters_Suppliers/Exporter20530.347968/Grub-Screw.html

Since taking that picture I obtained a factory original baseboard to replace that home-made one on the close enlarger. With the correct baseboard the forward tilt is much less and I don't really need the false baseboard any more on that enlarger.

Also, with very big enlargements, the baseboard alignment is not critical (try lifting up the edge of a 16x20 easel with a 35mm negative projected on it. You have to get it a few inches in the air to see the image become blurry)

ic-racer · Nov 17, 2010

Now that you are a Durst owner, I wouldn't be suprised if you picked up that Durst L184 10x10 Condenser enlarger in your local Craig's List.

It can take the same Lapla lensboards as your L1200, it projects both on the wall or vertical (unlike the DeVere), it probably comes with a negative carrier, its all mechanical so no power supply and I'll bet the DeVere Color head will fit on it.

Jeff Bannow · Nov 17, 2010

ic-racer said:
Now that you are a Durst owner, I wouldn't be suprised if you picked up that Durst L184 10x10 Condenser enlarger in your local Craig's List.

It can take the same Lapla lensboards as your L1200, it projects both on the wall or vertical (unlike the DeVere), it probably comes with a negative carrier, its all mechanical so no power supply and I'll bet the DeVere Color head will fit on it.

Too bad it's so tall! There's no way it could fit in my basement or it would be there already.

Thanks for the tip on the baseboard idea - looks feasible.

Johnkpap · Nov 17, 2010

As you will soon learn, you own about the best 4x5 enlarger ever made !!!

I bought mine many years ago at a Govenment Auction with a B&W head including a full set of condensors a, CS501 colour head 4x5 mixing box, wall mount Kit and a Rodagon 150mm in its box $650 the lot.

I have added to the accessory's over the years, carrier masks are very hard to get, I had 6 made for me for $150 by a machinest they don't have the alignment pins but they work fine.

PM me if you need the manual

I aligned mine by scratching a "x" on a 6x6 exposed and developed frame "black neg" and checking each corner with a focus scope.

What extra's did you get with yours ?

John

Jeff Bannow · Nov 17, 2010

Johnkpap said:
What extra's did you get with yours ?

John

Well, the femoneg with a plain glass insert and 2 lens boards - a lapla and a siriopla I believe. One of the lens boards has a 135mm Nikkor on it.

And of course the power supply, which blew last weekend when trying it out. Need to find the right capacitor to replace in it.

frotog · Nov 19, 2010

Also, with very big enlargements, the baseboard alignment is not critical (try lifting up the edge of a 16x20 easel with a 35mm negative projected on it. You have to get it a few inches in the air to see the image become blurry)

Not true. In making murals it's super critical that you're dead on the money aligned. The slightest divergence (including negative curl within the glass carrier and paper deviations) will throw the print noticeably out of focus. Most people don't notice the effects of a moderately out of alignment projection in sizes 16x20 and smaller.

ic-racer · Nov 19, 2010

frotog said:
Also, with very big enlargements, the baseboard alignment is not critical (try lifting up the edge of a 16x20 easel with a 35mm negative projected on it. You have to get it a few inches in the air to see the image become blurry)

Not true. In making murals it's super critical that you're dead on the money aligned. The slightest divergence (including negative curl within the glass carrier and paper deviations) will throw the print noticeably out of focus. Most people don't notice the effects of a moderately out of alignment projection in sizes 16x20 and smaller.

It is negative to lens alignment that gets more critical as magnification increases. The baseboard alignment becomes less critical.

For example a 20x enlargement at f16 has a focus spread of about 250mm on the baseboard.

frotog · Nov 19, 2010

Agreed. This is why I initially told the op that a slight divergence from normal in the alignment of negative to lens stage would not be a big deal unless he planned on using his lens wide open or he planned on making huge enlargements (30x40 and larger).

ICR, I'm not following your example nor am I able to infer what you intend to prove by it. Could you please flesh it out for me?

RalphLambrecht · Nov 19, 2010

Jeff Bannow said:
Does anyone have instructions on how to adjust a Durst Laborator 1200 enlarger? I've got a Versalab Parallel, but need to know what on the enlarger to adjust for what axis and such.

Thanks!

I made myself a simple flat board with threaded feet to support my easel on the baseboard. This and a selfmade laser alignment tool allows me to align the negative stage and the easel. The lens stage can be adjusted in one axis only (look for the knob on the back side of the lens stage), but I never had a need for more.

Christopher Nisperos · Nov 24, 2010

Jeff Bannow said:
Does anyone have instructions on how to adjust a Durst Laborator 1200 enlarger? I've got a Versalab Parallel, but need to know what on the enlarger to adjust for what axis and such.

Thanks!

Hi Jeff,

I was a Durst Tech Rep, years ago, for the U.S. distributor —at the time—, EPOI.
I remember one of our sales points being the fact that —unlike the Omega* and Beseler— our enlarger head couldn't go out of alignment, simply because it was one, solid piece of aluminum, molded and (the negative stage) milled at the factory to pretty tight tolerances. It'd be highly unusual if the negative and lens stages weren't parallel to one-another.

While the possibility exists that the the focus rods may be bent (if the enlarger head had been dropped, for instance ... in which case however you'd surely see external evidence), I think your best bet is to search elsewhere on the enlarger to solve your problem (between the head and baseboard). I wonder if something is shimming the column, where it attachs to the baseboard? Lensboard seated correctly?

Best,

Chris

*PS- I nonetheless have alot of respect for Omega enlargers ...Eventhough you need to check and re-align them regularly, they're very fine pieces of engineering which have stood the test of time and —as long as nuts and bolts are still available on this planet— most of the basic replacement parts will always be available!

I knew Rudolph Simmons —a gentleman, in the truest sense. The Omega reflects the integrity of he and his brothers ... however, Willy Pramstaller (Durst designer and pretty a upstanding guy, too) was no slouch when it came to creative conception!

:

Jeff Bannow · Nov 24, 2010

Christopher Nisperos said:
Hi Jeff,

I was a Durst Tech Rep, years ago, for the U.S. distributor at the time, EPOI.
I remember one of our sales points being the fact that unlike the Omega* and Beseler our enlarger head couldn't go out of alignment, simply because it was one, solid piece of aluminum, molded and (the negative stage) milled at the factory to pretty tight tolerances. It'd be highly unusual if the negative and lens stages were'nt parallel to one-another.

Thanks for the info - I suppose this would be considered definitive word that there are no adjustments needed or necessary! It is a very fine piece of equipment indeed.

Aligning Durst Laborator 1200?

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