Albumen Paper and Direct 6X9 Photography on to it ?

Machinery

A
Machinery

  • 0
  • 0
  • 17
Cafe art.

A
Cafe art.

  • 0
  • 0
  • 42
Sheriff

A
Sheriff

  • 0
  • 0
  • 36
WWPPD2025-01-scaled.jpg

A
WWPPD2025-01-scaled.jpg

  • 3
  • 1
  • 70
Shannon Falls.jpg

D
Shannon Falls.jpg

  • 3
  • 0
  • 95

Forum statistics

Threads
198,087
Messages
2,769,404
Members
99,560
Latest member
ujjwal
Recent bookmarks
0
Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
4,825
Location
İstanbul
Format
35mm
I watched Getty video on wet plate collodion process and using ether is scared me. Whatever the concentration , I will never use it.
During the video , they showed albumen paper to print the glass from. I liked it because its far easier to prepare.
I am trying to enter the alternative processes with a Box Tengor 54/2 1928 6X9 Camera and Vermeer 6X6 Pinhole camera because smaller the format , expenses went down.

  • Now the big question , do albumen paper is usable when the camera set to bulb ?
  • Does it give the elegant look or was the wet plate negative was the responsible ?
  • Does converting negative to positive by computer , kills the grades and details ?
  • How much silver nitrate needed to prepare 10 , 6x9 negatives ?
  • Do I need to use asap after the preparation or does it stay safe ?

Umut
 

NedL

Subscriber
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
3,376
Location
Sonoma County, California
Format
Multi Format
Hi Umut, I will try to guess some answers, but I have not tried this myself!


  • Now the big question , do albumen paper is usable when the camera set to bulb ?

I think albumen paper is most often used in a printing out process. The paper will be very slow. Commercial silver gelatin paper will produce a rather faint image in a couple hours with a lens like yours. Even commercial paper will be too slow for your pinhole camera as printing out paper. I *think* it might be possible, but the exposure may take one or several days... your lens will block some of the UV that the albumen paper is most sensitive to, and the paper could fog before the exposure is complete.

That said, there are developing out processes that might be used. I have never tried it myself but I think you could possibly develop the albumen paper in gallic acid, and it might well become nearly as fast as commercial printing paper.

I think though, if you are going to go to all this trouble, that you should consider making paper calotypes ( using sliver idodide rather than silver chloride ). You can visit the calotype society group at flickr for a huge amount of information about this. The paper is soaked in potassium iodide first, then dried and then coated with the silver nitrate. After exposure it is developed in gallic acid and fixed in hypo. I am just learning how to do this myself and it is very satisfying. This kind of paper negative will expose in your camera in less than 10 minutes and can be used to contact print onto albumen paper.



  • Does it give the elegant look or was the wet plate negative was the responsible ?

Probably both were responsible. Albumen prints can be very beautiful.



  • Does converting negative to positive by computer , kills the grades and details ?

No, it does not kill the details or tones. But another possibility would be to make contact prints onto albumen. The color produced on an albumen print coated with salt and silver nitrate is reddish or pinkish, and it may block too much UV to make a good contact print... I don't know... I've wondered myself if it might be possible to use chlorides or bromide or citrate salts of silver to make an in-camera negative. I've never heard of anyone doing it. If you make a more traditional calotype, I know you can contact print onto albumen.



  • How much silver nitrate needed to prepare 10 , 6x9 negatives ?

Well, I think 8 6x9 negatives is about the same surface area as 8x10 inches, so a little more than 1 ml of 12% silver nitrate solution should be sufficient. Not very much! Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection so that there is no chance of it getting in your eyes.



  • Do I need to use asap after the preparation or does it stay safe ?

I have not made albumen paper so someone else should answer this, but paper prepared for salt printing will fog over time ( in a day or two ). I suspect albumen prints might last a little longer because the silver salt is suspended in albumen and above the paper, but I don't know. I vaguely remember reading about someone freezing coated albumen paper to make it last longer....
 
OP
OP
Mustafa Umut Sarac
Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
4,825
Location
İstanbul
Format
35mm
Thank you very much NedL at beatiful Sonoma desert.

Is that gallic acid responsible for eaiting the paper in time ?

Thank you,

Umut
 

NedL

Subscriber
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
3,376
Location
Sonoma County, California
Format
Multi Format
Thank you very much NedL at beatiful Sonoma desert.

Is that gallic acid responsible for eaiting the paper in time ?

Thank you,

Umut

Hi Umut,

No, you may be thinking of gall ink, which I think causes trouble because it contains iron. The gallic acid is used to develop a calotype, and can also be used to develop salt prints and possibly albumen prints. If you read through the discussions at the calotype society, several of the members experimented with developing salt prints but gave up... I think it makes the paper very fast.... Alan Greene's book uses this approach to develop salt prints.

I have never tried this so I am just repeating what I've read.

But I like your idea!
 

Jim Noel

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
Messages
2,261
Format
Large Format
to answer in order:
1. Albumen paper is extremely slow. Exposures would likely run into hours.
2. if possible to use, the answer would still be no.
3. YES!!
4.12 grams of silver nitrate will produce 100 ml of appropriate strength for sensitizing
5. Best used within 24 hours.

In addition - don't be afraid of ether, just be aware of its properties and be careful.
 
OP
OP
Mustafa Umut Sarac
Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
4,825
Location
İstanbul
Format
35mm
Thank you Ned and Jim,

NedL,

I am sorry for my ignorance, I heard Calotype Society first time but I will be an member after that post.

Do gallic acid be applied before exposure or after exposure ? After reading threads there , I hope I return here with more intelligent answers.

Another question , does anyone know the recipes of gallic acid solution , time etc and does anyone knows the recipe of albumen paper , I only watched a simple video.

Thanks,

Umut
 

removed account4

Subscriber
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
29,833
Format
Hybrid
hi umut

http://www.alternativephotography.com

has exceptional information on all the processes you ask about.
there are some who put gallic acid in the emulsion ( the stuff coated on the calotype / negative )
but it is also put into the developer ...
you might also consider going to denise ross' site ( http://thelightfarm.com/ )

extremely simple emulsions can be made with just silver nitrate, salt water and gelatin
and it will work in a camera as a negative or on paper to make prints ...

have fun
john
 

doughowk

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2003
Messages
1,809
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Format
Large Format
I've used Bostick & Sullivan's pre-coated Albumen paper so that I can avoid the smelly part. B&S sells a basic kit for the process that includes the silver nitrate coating solution, a gold toner and fixer. Their instructions are very helpful; but, if you want to get serious about the process, would recommend James Reilly's "the Albumen &Salted Paper" book.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom