By using 2 sets of boxes made into a u shape you can create a light trap. I worked in darkrooms that used a light trap door system rather than revolving door, same idea on a smaller scale.
I feel your pain.
Here in Norte Tejas, not having an AC unit means not working in the darkroom 9-10 months a year! My first permanent space was in a rent house in the 1970s. My landlord had been a keen amateur and had built the room, but it had no heat or cooling. He graciously let me install a window unit at my own expense. I do not recall it leaking light. I did a similar thing in another house in the 80s and do not recall it leaking light either.
Then I had a nice darkroom (finally) with central heat and AC from the building. Oddly enough, I had to put a baffle over the register vent to keep light out from the ducts, but that was successful.
My current darkroom, built out in 2010, has a window unit in the wall. It was there when I bought the house and it leaked some light. I replaced it a couple of years ago, and the new unit glows, too. So, either I did not see the light leaks 30-40 years ago (entirely possible), or the older units were built differently than current ones.
But, to answer your first question: probably not. The second question: yes, you can pretty much light proof one.
Without blocking air flow, you will need to get foam weather stripping all around the case on the inside. If you can take the front off - often necessary to replace or clean the filter - it should be obvious where you can (and cannot) do this. It will also be obvious where it is needed, if you let your eyes adjust (several minutes, as has already been suggested) and get a good look at the unit in the dark.
It may also be possible to put some dark filter material in front of the air output grid, which will cut down the light considerably. Just be careful not to cut down the air flow considerably, or it could create problems and damage the unit. If you can, it may also be possible to add some filter material over the outside grill work. In my case, this made the biggest difference after simply weather stripping the perimeter of the case. I used window screen frame material cut to size and stretched it with a dark piece of fabric.
There's always working after dark, which a lot of folks resort too for other reasons. That would be a last resort, but keep it in mind.
When I win the lottery, I will replace the window unit with a mini-split ...
If you're in an arid area, you might try a swamp cooler. This is what I'm planning on later this summer, when it hits 105F+ in my garage. Bonus: it increases humidity, which should, in theory, cut down on dust.
I was thinking long these lines, but was concerned about blocking the vent. Do you have a photo of what you made?
Sounds huge! I'll try to work something out.
Two u shaped boxes would work, to be serious for a second. I too worked in a darkroom (many years ago) with no doors but a kind of labyrinth entrance. You paint the interior of the labyrinth black. You could make one out of a fairly thin sheet of mdf. God knows what Americans call that though. Hard fibre board.
It's the same. Medium density fiberboard.
this summer, when the temperature in the apartment regularly reached 32 degrees, i thought about installing an air conditioner. My husband is against it categorically (it is harmful, expensive, the air does not clean anyway, the repair will be spoiled, you need maintenance, etc.). I am pregnant, I want the child and I to not suffer so much next summer, suddenly the summer will be as hot, because it is not always possible to go to the dacha, and there are no conditions in the dacha, as in the apartment. After searching for information, we found professionals in https://www.socool.sg/why-is-your-aircon-not-cold/ who were able to correctly install the air conditioner.
Insulation comes in 4x5 sheets of various thicknesses. 1/2" would work well. You can glue the pieces together and the box would be very light if you want to remove it at certain times.It's the same. Medium density fiberboard.
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