Agitating T-Max films in tank processing

This question is directed at experienced users of TMX and TMY 4x5 film who develop in D-76 (1+1) using tanks. I will be using the combi-plan tanks with the dip and dunk method. I'm assuming that the agitation is the same fashion as when using stainless steel tanks and the dip and dunk method. I utilize the ZS in case this is of relevance to the information you provide. I understand how important temperature is and that is not a problem for me.

Given the finicky nature of T-Max films, I specifically want to know:

1. I intend to use a water presoak, your thoughts on duration or does it matter?

2. initial agitation duration? Kodak's pub F-4016 says for the first 15 - 30 sec. Does not matter as long as I am consistent?

3. in what time frame i.e., seconds, should the agitation cycle be completed? From my understanding with TMax the agitation cycle should be short but somewhat vigorous----is this correct? The cycle as I understand it to be: lift, tilt right 30 deg; dip; then lift again, tilt left 30 deg; place back in tank; agitate every 60 seconds.

Kodaks Pub says to lift, tilt 30 deg, let drain for 5 - 10 sec, reimmerse or dip. Then it seems to suggest that on the next agitation cycle to: lift, tilt 30 deg in the opposite direction and let drain 5-10 sec.

I'm just clarifying but do you lift, tilt, and dip in both directions in one cycle?


As always your information is greatly appreciated.
Chuck

Chuck1 said:

Given the finicky nature of T-Max films, I specifically want to know:

1. I intend to use a water presoak, your thoughts on duration or does it matter?

2. initial agitation duration? Kodak's pub F-4016 says for the first 15 - 30 sec. Does not matter as long as I am consistent?

3. in what time frame i.e., seconds, should the agitation cycle be completed? From my understanding with TMax the agitation cycle should be short but somewhat vigorous----is this correct? The cycle as I understand it to be: lift, tilt right 30 deg; dip; then lift again, tilt left 30 deg; place back in tank; agitate every 60 seconds.

Kodaks Pub says to lift, tilt 30 deg, let drain for 5 - 10 sec, reimmerse or dip. Then it seems to suggest that on the next agitation cycle to: lift, tilt 30 deg in the opposite direction and let drain 5-10 sec.

I'm just clarifying but do you lift, tilt, and dip in both directions in one cycle?
Chuck

Click to expand...

chuck--since nobody replied, I might--haven't used d76 1:1 this way in a tank, but I have some experience using D76 replenished with D76R in larger tanks with racks. we used 4x5 plus-x this way in our studio for a long time, and when TMX came out we switched to that, but couldn't get even development using the same technique. we tried a water bath presoak, and that didn't help either. in our case, the problems were with D76. we switched to TMX RS and everything went back to normal. note, we were running control strips for process control at this time as well.

now-- here's the agitation scheme. take the film racks, hangers whatever--drop them into the tank and rap them on the tank edge a couple of times to dislodge any airbells. start your first agitation cycle--this one is about 30 seconds long--continuous. do it as you wrote above--pull the racks out, tilt in one direction, back in, pull out & tilt the other way. I usually rap the racks again at the end of each cycle. the next cycle--I agitate for ten seconds every minute afterwards in the same way. do this type of cycle for the rest of the run--about ten seconds to the end, pull the racks out and tilt them, drain the dev a bit and then go into stop/rinse whatever. I'm old school, we use stop. In the stop and the fix, I just agitate up & down briskly. In the fix (rapid), I agitate continuously for the first half (about 2-3 minutes) and then sporadically for the rest of the time. I turn the lights on halfway through. Then--prewash, hypo clear, final wash, LFN, dry. works every time.

I use batch times set up for different films and push/pull combinations. if a film is non-standard (for us) I round the times off to fit into the nearest batch combination, or to control the contrast (push or pull)--so basically what I'm saying is instead of the "zone system", I use the white placement/threshold school of exposure, tempered by process control, if that makes any sense?

I have one batch time that's 5 minutes--in this run, I split the agitation cycles into 2, 5 sec every 30 sec. that's about all really. It's pretty easy to do--follow kodak's instructions if you like, and if the results are off, just experiment to come up with your own method. I have used this same method in small one gallon tanks, and half gallon tanks as well, with other developers also, such as XTOL and DK50, but I most all the time use replenished developers, so the results may vary for you. I'm not sure--maybe someone else will reply.

I too have found D-76 to be problematical in tanks with modern T-grain style films. Streaks and uneven-ness.

DKT,

Thanks for your info.

If I was using Tri-X or Plus-X there would be no need for a question, but with T-Max it seems that success hinges on the strictest interpretation of the process. I have developed several sheets already using hc-110, but this was just to get used to film handling and loading in the tanks, etc...because I'm new to LF. Now, I'm ready to concentrate on being very consistent so my film tests (when my densitometer arrives) actually have meaning.

Doing the research found that people disliked TMax film when it first came out because they could not control the densities, turns out they simply were not adhering to the strict processing parameters of time, temperature, and agitation required by TMax. The parameters of time and temperature are not going to be a problem, but the agitation in a tank environment is the one thing that I have yet to find any anecdotal evidence. I look forward to producing my own anecdotal findings.

Chuck