Agfa Jsolette II 6x6 Folder.

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FredW

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Just picked up a Agfa Jsolette II folder, with a f4.5 Solinar lens. I have repaired most of the pinholes in the bellows, using acrylic paint. The shutter needs a service, though the faster speeds are fine, and usable now. It probably needs a bellows replacement for long term use. That is the issue, looking around the internet, I have seen examples where that state that the film chamber should be removable by screws when servicing the bellows. But close examination of my sample, it looks more like rivets, and not screws. Is this common with this camera, or am I missing something?
 

StanMac

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Just picked up a Agfa Jsolette II folder, with a f4.5 Solinar lens. I have repaired most of the pinholes in the bellows, using acrylic paint. The shutter needs a service, though the faster speeds are fine, and usable now. It probably needs a bellows replacement for long term use. That is the issue, looking around the internet, I have seen examples where that state that the film chamber should be removable by screws when servicing the bellows. But close examination of my sample, it looks more like rivets, and not screws. Is this common with this camera, or am I missing something?

I have more than a couple of the Agfa/Ansco folders and I agree with what you see - rivets, not screws. It is as if Agfa decided that their product would last forever and need no servicing or would be discarded if the camera developed bellows problems. I do have an Ansco Viking 6x9, however, that uses screws in the film gate attachment.

Stan
 

gone

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Changing the bellows on one of those cameras is a PITA, don't ask me how I know. After that episode, I went to this stuff and never looked back. It's widely available for cheap at any Walmart or auto parts store, never hardens or cracks, and is very flexible. It sticks like glue to anything you put it on, and it's easy to apply w/ a small brush or paddle. You could patch it and be shooting that afternoon, it depends on how bad off your bellows are.
https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:10574827360&gclsrc=ds
 

Alex Varas

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I would write to Sandeha about that model, III model has screws and it's easly done.
The solution of the sealer as previous post it's fine on good quality bellows when they are only few spots, in Agfa Isolettes (except the Super) it's like the Milky Way by night when looking at the bellows with flashlight.
 
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FredW

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Thanks all, I have repaired the bellows, there were major cracks, but pretty good now. I have put a roll of film through, and still have a few more holes to repair. I have used artists, acrylic paints, to fill the holes and it works fine. I will look at the silicone sealant as well. The shutter does need servicing, and the focus ring was frozen. I managed to unfreeze it with a blow dryer, but it appears that both front elements are moving rather than just the focusing element. The negatives are surprisingly sharp, quite pleased.
 

Donald Qualls

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it appears that both front elements are moving rather than just the focusing element.

This means you're removing the front cell from the shutter, rather than altering the spacing between the two front elements -- which has much less effect on focal length. You may need to remove that cell from the shutter and apply solvents to soften the green grease, then thoroughly clean the focusing threads, regrease (I recommend one of the clear PTFE silicone greases) before reassembling and resetting the focus (the focusing thread has multiple starts, 3 or 4 depending on the exact model).
 

M Carter

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Thanks all, I have repaired the bellows, there were major cracks, but pretty good now. I have put a roll of film through, and still have a few more holes to repair. I have used artists, acrylic paints, to fill the holes and it works fine. I will look at the silicone sealant as well. The shutter does need servicing, and the focus ring was frozen. I managed to unfreeze it with a blow dryer, but it appears that both front elements are moving rather than just the focusing element. The negatives are surprisingly sharp, quite pleased.

Dude, you need to clean it all out. The lube Agfa used in those things hardens to an epoxy-like substance over the years. Some people have luck soaking the lens group in alcohol - I soaked one for a week and it was still glued tight. Warming it in the oven and then using home-made clamps got it apart, and then I was able to clean the threads and use a very light coat of grease.

I've had a I and a III, I don't know I'd put a lot of work into a non-RF Isolette if you can get your hands on a III. With the III, often the RF screw is glued with the same gunk, and for me it took a soldering iron to loosen it up for cleaning.
 

moggi1964

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By the way, I learnt a lesson using acrylic paint this last week.

Make sure you add a fabric medium to an acrylic paint (unless it is a fabric specific one) otherwise when it dries you will lose some flexibility and the paint will crack

=1 on Mr Lynch BTW. Great resource and very knowledgeable.

I have an Isolette II and it is fabulous. I stick a Watameter on it if I need very accurate distance otherwise I just figure it out.

Here's my half plate with one coat of black, three coats of acrylic and a final coat of acrylic with the fabric medium. Only after the last coat did it stop cracking.
 

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Dan Daniel

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By the way, I learnt a lesson using acrylic paint this last week.

Make sure you add a fabric medium to an acrylic paint (unless it is a fabric specific one) otherwise when it dries you will lose some flexibility and the paint will crack
I've had no problems with cracking if I mix acrylic paint with Elmers Glue. Maybe 1/3 Elmers, 2/3 black acrylic. Th Elmers might serve as a fabric medium.
 
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