advise for a flash

k.hendrik

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sometimes i feel the available light isn't enough.

I'm seeking advise for an allround flash for my RZ / SL66SE / C330 / FM; now I'm using a Nikon SB50 who gives everytime all the light I mostly don't need. I (sometimes) like to use my camera's handheld
Thanks.
 

baachitraka

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Agfatronic with metz connector...
 

frank

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I've got a soft spot for the old Nikon sb15 with ttl cord. If the camera body doesn't support that function, it will at least get the flash away from the lens.
 

markbarendt

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The SB50 works great on a "smarter" camera like an N90s or F100, it's a bit challenging without one though.

What you actually need a "smarter" flash that will adjust automatically. Essentially, you want to be able to tell the flash I'm using f4 you do the rest.

Flash units like Nikon's SB80 (and others) have a sensor and metering circuits built in. Set the SB80 to "A" mode, dial in the ISO and F settings, and then it pretty much does the rest. You can also reduce or increase the relative output of units like this to get the balance you like.
 

analoguey

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Vivitar 283/5. You'll get about 4-5 for the price of any mid-range flash.

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k.hendrik

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Thanks for the answers; but I think

markbarendt said:
What you actually need a "smarter" flash that will adjust automatically. Essentially, you want to be able to tell the flash I'm using f4 you do the rest.

Flash units like Nikon's SB80 (and others) QUOTE]

this what I'm looking for ?!
Click to expand...
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Another vote for either the Metz 45 CL-4 or the Vivitar 283/285. The Metz packs a serious wallop, and can be used in "automatic" mode. It also has the ability to shoot TTL via SCA module adapters with a very wide range of cameras. The Vivitar 283 is a little less smart, but still easy - you figure out the distance, set the distance on the flash to one of four ranges, (blue, yellow, green and orange), and set the f-stop accordingly.
 
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k.hendrik

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(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

ok, this is what I really want to do with flash(not by accident like this one; low battery > 1/30 and actually underexposed)

thanks
 

markbarendt

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Ok,

For simplicity I'm going to assume there is only 1 flash/artificial light source.

In every shot with artificial light there is the ambient light exposure and then the artificial exposure.

In your example the background needs a specific exposure setting to "be" black. That's going to be your camera setting.

The flash then needs to brighten your subject say +4 stops without lighting up the background.

In a nutshell that's what you are trying to get.

Flash units can get you there in various ways. The SB 50 you have can get you there by moving the SB 50 back a ways or by manually adjusting output, that's going to take some figuring but it is doable. With an SB80 you can use "A" mode and let the speed light do most of the math.

There is more to it, obviously, but that is the gist of it.

Good book on this is "The Hot Shoe Diaries" by Joe McNally.
 

philosli

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I think you can benefit from two operation modes that can be found on some "modern" flashes: You need a flash that can do "auto" mode, which has been mentioned in earlier posts. It uses a sensor on the flash to detect the reflected flash light from the subject(s) and adjusts the flash output automatically (it's a similar concept to TTL except the metering of the reflected light is not through the lens; it cannot tell your aperture and ISO settings so you need to dial those in manually). The other is, to me a more important feature if you want to try out any lighting setup, is the "manual" mode that should be paired with a flash meter so you manually control the flash output level.

I personally have a Contax TLA 360, Sunpak 555, and 522. All three have these two modes built in.
 

iulian

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I agree with Metz 45 CT-4 or Metz 45 CL-4. Other 45's have various limitations so theese two are the best. Built to last forever.
 

RalphLambrecht

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I still recommend a Vivitar 283 as apretty smart low-budget flash but,it should be used with a wireless radio trigger, as it has a pretty high trigger voltage and can damage sensitive cameras or lenses:confused:
 

Chan Tran

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RalphLambrecht said:
I still recommend a Vivitar 283 as apretty smart low-budget flash but,it should be used with a wireless radio trigger, as it has a pretty high trigger voltage and can damage sensitive cameras or lenses:confused:
Click to expand...

According to Vivitar themselves they said that if the 283 was made in Japan or Korea then it has high voltage sync. If it was made in China then the voltage is 6V.
 

TheFlyingCamera

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The voltage issue with a Vivitar 283 is really only an issue if you are using it on a really modern SLR with advanced electronics, or a DSLR. A Rolleiflex or RB67 or a Nikon F or other similar mechanical camera could care less what voltage the flash uses. If you are using one with an EOS 1V, Nikon F5 or F6, or a DSLR like a Canon EOS 5D or Digital Rebel, then yes, you should get a wireless remote trigger. Otherwise, shoot and enjoy!
 

removed account4

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you might look into a lumedyne kit.
they are worth their weight in gold ...
i have had one for 26<?> years and
never had any trouble with it ... ever.
the battery is large and after it is fully charged
it is rated for 200 flashes at 200ws.

and there is one for sale in the classifieds right now
( and if i didn't already have 1 i would buy it )
 

MattKing

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It may be an issue with a Mamiya 645 Super, Pro or Pro Tl or any of the RZ67s as well.

As I understand it, it depends on how the synch circuits in the cameras are constructed - are they electro-mechanical, electronic with robust circuitry, or ???

And you should be aware as well that the wireless remote triggers can also be damaged if they are not designed to be used with high trigger voltages.
 

analoguey

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Using PC-Sync instead, should counter it?
Nikons (digital too)anyways are rated to 250v on the hot-shoe. Canons iirc restricted to 6-10v or so.
Sync with the PC, then put a tape on the vivitar hot-shoe.

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k.hendrik

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thanks for all your answers! there are at KEH two Metz 45 CL-4 listed; one digital and one not ?? And do I 'need' a powerpack P50.
 

RalphLambrecht

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I'd say Vivitar 283,because they are cheap used and have the built-in exp sensor but they also have a mighty high trigger Voltage, that can ruin your camera over time.
 

benjiboy

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RalphLambrecht said:
I'd say Vivitar 283,because they are cheap used and have the built-in exp sensor but they also have a mighty high trigger Voltage, that can ruin your camera over time.
Click to expand...
The Vivitar 283 is a good flash gun but the more modern Vivitar 285 HV is more powerful, has a vari-power module which is great for fill in flash, the trigger voltage is only around 6 Volts, and will work admirably an all the O.P's cameras.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lmquq6hUjE8
 
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John Koehrer

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285 & 283 are both GN110 with ISO 100 film.
The 285 will have a greater range if the zoom head is used. But..........
The 283 is more compact because it doesn't have the zoom head/filter holder. It does offer a VP module as an option.
 

benjiboy

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It's well worth I.M.O. getting the 285HV because of how useful the varipower module that gives full , half, quarter and sixteenth power in the manual mode for fill in flash is a great feature, and the low trigger voltage means you can use it for modern cameras without frying the electronics.
 

analoguey

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Just one thing to remember - the the vivitars take long time to recharge - near 6s on nimh, full power discharge. Keep that in mind if you need fast recycle times.

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