If you want a real hard edge, then you need a real stage light - an ellipsoidal focus spot - know in the trade as a 'lekolite' after the original widely used model by Strand in the late 50's early 60's.
If you do find an old one, take care about the bulb it needs. Old ones need a mogul base socket with long glass envelopes that are rare and expensive (like $35 for perhaps 500 hours of burn time, albeit at 1000w or 750W typically, which is a lot of light if not being thrown over 50-75').
More modern ones use bipin sockets, and the bulbs are longer lived, and only are like, around $20.
The more modern kind use a dichroic reflector and throw as much light with a 575W bulb as the older ones that used a 1000w source.
ETC (from New York, I think) and Selecon (from NZ) are ones I am familiar with. There are fixed focal length lens sets, and also zoom models; as you would expect the zooms cost more, but are more flexible, but usually heavier.
Selecon's run cool enough we make up gobos on acetate with ink jet pinters, and they are good for over 25 hours of use before dye fading becomes much of an issue.
It is possible to quickly go though $$ doing theatrical lighting, so approximating the effct might be worth it.
I use studio flash, and have had good success faking spot light looks by making DIY grids for my flash units from black coreflute, which is an art store sources corrugated plastic.
They would not stand up to the heat of continuous light sources.
I hope this infomation helps your understanding of this subject.
